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no vapor barrier in garage slab
There is a company called Sedore which manufactures a nifty unit, the fire burns sideways not vertically, drawing wood down from a hopper in the top of the stove. The hoppper allows up to 24hrs. burn time from a single load, it will burn almost anything, wood, pellets, corn, even corn cobs & sawdust.
The biggest benefit being that once it is running you can load the hopper with greeen wood and by the time it gets to the fire it is already dry.
They also make a model with a water jacket, I'm not sure if it is approved for potable water, but I do know several people who use them in conjunction with a circulation pump and radiators to spread the heat to other rooms.
There is no reason you couldn't use the hot water from such a unit to pre-heat the water in a storage tank. In fact they make, as strange as it sounds, hot water-fired water heaters, actually a water-to-water heat exchanger, for people who use a boiler to heat the house and domestic hot water. In your case the woodstove would pre-heat then keep the water in the storage tank warm (hot?) until the water heater called for it, then you would only pay to heat it from that point up to what you desire. If you used much hot water and kept a fire going anyways the savings could be substantial.
Best of luck.
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no vapor barrier in garage slab
Murf: A few people around here have conventional outdoor wood furnaces that work pretty good and both heat the house and hot water. They do have reputations of being wood hogs compared to efficient indoor stoves. We've thought about these things since firewood is cheap and available here. A 24-hour hopper sounds like a good idea. People here are forever taking breaks from do's to go feed the stove. I guess my brother-in-law manages his 14 hour shifts through artful banking of his stove.
The idea I had took off from a friend who has an oil water heater. The burner seemed to click on about every time they turned on the hot water. A plumber installed a holding tank and that seemed to cure the problem. I guess a bigger pressure tank would do the same. I had the notion of trying to increase the efficiency of the holding tank idea mostly be getting more surface to air contact. Using waste heat from a freezer is a more active idea. No air conditioners here or they'd make good sources of waste heat.
I did a bit of looking at waste heat recovery a few years back. The water to water units for potable water use were expensive. I think the issue is how to prevent or at least know if there's internal leakage between the systems--it would be possible to put wastewater into the drinking water if the well pump failed.
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09-29-2003, 11:53 
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