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 01-16-2009, 09:59 Post: 159507
1mountainman

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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

Joel, thanks for input, EVERYTHING you mentioned has been done. I took the thermostat out first and put it on the stove in H2O to make sure operation, yes it works, valve that was added to heating system coolant works fine, no blockage, lastly I blocked off the radiator with card board.
I think alot of people responding aren't graping what I am bringing across, the engine doesn't even get hot enough to make the temp guage move, yes it works as well. the radiator has an electric fan and you can be sure that hasn't kick in. The only time it ever got hot was when I was working it very, very hard driving through 12" heavy wet snow where the temp needle went to the 1 o'clock position just to the break in the line between normal & hot. and that was because I had the cardboard across the radiator. At that time I knew it was capable of getting warm and the heating system did work wunderfully. It seems that under normal driving around conditions the engine doesn't get hot at all.






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 01-16-2009, 10:01 Post: 159508
1mountainman

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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

Joel, I will check the cap though. I had a similar situation on my grandfathers car years ago. No one could figure it out, and all it was , was a faulty cap.






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 01-16-2009, 10:25 Post: 159512
kthompson



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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mountainman | view 159504
Hi I am having a hard time understanding what you are trying to bring across, I am not losing any heat, the engine doesn't build any, not even enough to open the thermostat.



Guess the cold (will not blame it on age yet) affected my memory, forgot you said the engine was not warming up. So would think Joel is on the track. Did read your replies to him since my post this AM. Is it real windy there where the wind blowing over the engine is enough to keep it cool? If there any way to block or reduced the wind that gets to the engine itself? Is it even possible there is some sheet metal missing to direct the air flow since you bought it used?






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 01-16-2009, 10:33 Post: 159515
DRankin



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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

It would not surprise me one bit to find out that the surface area of the block and head is enough to cool the engine if the weather is cold enough.

I have been to Fairbanks in the winter and seen it so cold that the biggest gas hog V-8 barely cracked the thermostat.






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 01-16-2009, 10:40 Post: 159516
Murf



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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mountainman | view 159507
I think a lot of people responding aren't graping what I am bringing across, the engine doesn't even get hot enough to make the temp guage move, yes it works as well.



I suspect if you got a remote temp. probe on a multi-meter you'd find the problem is not that the engine and HST isn't getting hot.

The gauges are notoriously finicky. They only read in a VERY narrow range. The needle doesn't even move for the first couple hundred degrees (i.e. -20° and 150° are the same place) then the gauge rises rapidly above ~160° to the maximum of ~220°.

In other words the gauge only reads a narrow, probably 60° range of temperatures.

Put an aftermarket unit on and I'll bet you see there's a difference.

Best of luck.






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 01-16-2009, 10:47 Post: 159517
1mountainman

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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

Hey you know you are probably hitting the nail on the head! It is fairly cold up here in the Northeast PA mountains, today now is 7 degrees , I do keep the RTV in the garage where it is down to 33 degrees, running the kid up to the bus stop the RTV struggles to get up my steep driveway, it's got to be in the hydraulic's. There is a coolant line going from the block to the filter base of the hydraulics, what would you suggest I do? Put a on/ off ball valve in that coolant line to manually control the collant getting back to hydraulics?






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 01-16-2009, 10:49 Post: 159518
candoarms



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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

1mountainman,

It's a big help knowing that you were able to see some change in the engine temperature while working the RTV pretty hard. This is a good sign.

Even so, I would certainly start with the radiator cap. It's not an expensive part, and it's worth replacing when considering the hours spent fiddling around trying other things.

Some of the tricks we use up here in the cold north can't be installed in these smaller vehicles. There just isn't enough room under the hood to install some of our favorite gadgets.

Check to see if you have enough room to install a manually operated valve in the lower radiator hose. Somehow I doubt it.....but it's worth a look-see.

Joel






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 01-16-2009, 11:07 Post: 159519
candoarms



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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

1mountainman,

Here's a handy device used on vehicles that operate in cold climates.

See the link below.

Joel






Link:   Heater Core Diverter Valve 

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 01-16-2009, 11:24 Post: 159520
Murf



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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

Joel, forgive me, I don't think I've had enough coffee yet this morning. Smile

How exactly would stopping all flow to the heater help him with his problem of not enough heat in the cabin?

All Asian made diesels seem to have very efficient cooling systems.

Our Kubota's take a good amount of work to warm them up too, even a prolonged fast idle won't do it, you must WORK them for 10 minutes or more. In our case roading to the work area is more than enough. Even with grill covers in place they almost never run as warm as they do in warmer weather. Despite that though, they do in fact warm up.

I suspect in this case though it's just too much cooling and not enough work.

Best of luck.






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 01-16-2009, 11:41 Post: 159522
1mountainman

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 Kubota RTV 900 with Curtis Cab

Joel, good idea on the lower hose valve, but once again the thermostat is not openning, so coolant is not even making it to the radiator via the top hose, in essence the thermostat is a valve and since it is closed putting another valve on really wouldn't help yet. TRhe Cap is a cheap start you are right, It still come down to the engine never warms up, thusly something is cooling it down, I'm really thinking the HST isn't getting warmed up and that is chilling the system. I am going to throw a new cap on, and put a ball valve inline to the HST to manually regulate coolant flow, I'll get back and post a response to see if that does the trick . I am pretty sure we are on the right track now thanks everyone for your input!






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