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 02-25-2003, 22:15 Post: 50066
Billy

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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

I found the generator I've been looking for. It's a 108 KW with Perkins diesel. Turn key price of $17,325, including setup, 150 gallon diesel tank, running all wire and 2-200 AMP automatic transfer switches.

Billy






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 02-25-2003, 23:10 Post: 50069
JerryGoucher



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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

Billy,
Check out your fuel consumption per hr. I think that you will need a larger tank. I know that I wouldn't have anything less that a 300 gallion for what you are using it for.
JerryG






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 02-26-2003, 06:21 Post: 50078
Billy

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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

Jerry,

I opted for a 350 gallon farm tank with refueling nozzle for $200 more. That should run it 3 days plus?

Billy






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 02-26-2003, 10:01 Post: 50102
JerryGoucher



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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

Billy,
Good choise. I just didn't want you to get into a bind with not enough fuel. What is the HP of the Perkins? I had to go with a 166 hp because of the length of my leads from it to the buildings.
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 02-26-2003, 14:25 Post: 50127
Billy

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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

Jerry,

If I'm not mistaken, it's a 162 HP. The furtherest transfer switch is about 280' from the generator. I'm seriously thinking about running it to my house, if the finances hold out. The guy said it wouldn't have any trouble running everything at once. The only thing is the cost of wire, 700' to the house.

Thanks for the headsup on the fuel tank. If you think of anything else I might have overlooked, let me know.

Billy






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 02-26-2003, 20:38 Post: 50147
JerryGoucher



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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

Billy,
My lines don't go as far as you but I was told that the voltage drop(?) would be to much. That is why I had to go from 150 to 166 hp. BTW, I don't know how your battery is mounted but, mine was in a steel frame. I was always told that the battery would discharge into the concrete if you sat the battery on it . Now for what I am getting at. I think that the battery will also leach through the steel in to the concrete. Several folks around here have had the batterys not hold a charge. What we have done and what the installers are now doing is putting a piece of plywood under the battery and also installing a automatic trickle charger on the battery. Make sure that it is automatic though, you don't want to cook your battery to death. I got mine a W/M for about $20 or was it $30. I can't remember, all that I know for sure is that it won't charge the battery if it doesn't need it. The last thing that you need is for the genset not to start if you need it.






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 02-26-2003, 22:07 Post: 50153
Billy

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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

Jerry

We did discuss the voltage drop from the genset to my house. He assured me it wouldn't be a concern. I do know the setup comes with a block heater and trickle charger. Whether the charger is automatic or not is something I'll have to check into. I've always heard that about batteries and concrete, so I'll check that out too. Thanks

Billy






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 02-27-2003, 06:45 Post: 50172
TomG

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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

Sounds like a contractor is going to do the work, so problems like length of the run and voltage drop would be their buz. If the run is under-ground, I don't know at what distances pull boxes in a run start being used but something like that may be an issue with runs around 300'. It can be a difficult to pull 200A triplex through 300' of conduit--especially if there are sweeps and even more especially it's copper line. However, that issue does sound like it's the contractor's problem.

Aluminum DB line sure does pull easier and it's a lot cheaper, so maybe that's your issue as well. The 80' of aluminum 200A DB line for our house under-ground service was pricey. It was supplied by the utility and cost more than the 300' or so of overhead line from the transformer across the highway.

I supplied 30' of DB line from a 200A pole service I put in to a construction trailer at our camp. I ran the trailer feed as a 100A branch circuit. I used 100A copper DB line and the price really took my breath away. The electrical supplier says 'I'll have to order the copper in but I have aluminum in stock and it's about half the price.' Well copper is what I'm used to working with so I bit the bullet and bought copper. I think I might have to mortgage the tractor if I was looking at putting in 300' of 200A copper underground.

My impression is that a 1A trickle charger can be left connected indefinitely to a sizable battery. Maybe I'm wrong.






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 02-28-2003, 07:28 Post: 50242
marklugo



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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

Most peole when they buy a generator forget to think about portable welders. Most all of the smaller ones can be bought for less that 3k and carry capacities of 10,000 watts continuous output. That's what I have for back up. It has 220 and 110 ac outlets and voltage is adjustable so that it can be fine tuned. And to think you get a welder to boot!






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 02-28-2003, 09:30 Post: 50252
Billy

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 Features to look for in stand alone generator

Here about two years ago we had a record ice storm. This whole area was out of power for a week, some as long as a month. There where literally tens of thousands of generators bought. Some of the guys used the storm as an excuse to get their wives to let them purchase a portable welder. For a long time after that there were quite a few bargains on used generators. This all helped chainsaw sales too.

The good part is the area was declared a disaster area. For those who filled out the proper papers and sent their chainsaw and generator receipts in to FEMA got a partial reimbursement. Those portable welders didn't qualify Laughing out loud

Billy






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