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Anybody have a dump trailer
I have a Pronovost 5x8 off road, dual axle model that came with my (used) TC45D package; the bed is over the axles. This thing weighs a ton just by itself, very well built. One of my neighbors has a Bri-Mar. He is as happy with his as I am with mine. My only problem is I don't have a FEL for my tractor to load it yet...
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Anybody have a dump trailer
I bought a Load Trail gooseneck with 2 7000# axles. Only complaint was the cheapo tires that came on it. One tire threw the tread within 3 months of purchase. I think most manufacturers install the cheapest tires they can find. Regarding the earlier thread regarding a truck type hoist: It is my understanding that you have a greater mechanical advantage with a scissor type hoist over the models that just shove the cylinder ends against the bed. I also talked to a dump trailer owner before I purchased mine. He got rid of his bumper pull and got a gooseneck. A bumper pull will lift the front end of the truck off the ground while dumping under the right conditions! Just my 2cents. Good luck with your purchase....they are labor and time savers!
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Anybody have a dump trailer
I believe you have a couple things backwards. Scissor hoists are just easier to place and allow a shorter hyd. cylinder. That is their mechanical advantage, moving the dump bed farther with a short stroke. The mechanical advantage for strength goes with the straight cylinder. Dumping a heavy load may lift the rear of the truck, not the front. The tongue weight will never be heavier than when the bed is down.
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Thanks for setting me straight on the scissor type hoist denwood. Sorry, I did mean it would lift the rear end off the ground. I think the best overall advice on dump trailers is to respect the overall load limitations...trailer and truck GVWR. Ever get behind a trailer that looks like it is wanting to peek around each side of the truck thats towing it?  Be Safe!
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Dieseltrctr, be really careful with that gooseneck dump, or any dump that doesn't have a pintle hitch / lunette ring style coupler for that matter.
I have seen some really nice trucks really mashed up from coming unhitched while dumping.
The positive lock of the pintle hitch is the only style of hitch that is designed to take an upwards load securely, the rest, ball or pin, are really only designed to take enough upwards load to stay hitched during something like a big pothole. They only 'lock' by pinching in on a very small area on the mating device, ball or pin.
With a surprisingly little bit of wear, or a misadjusted coupler, they will disconnect in a heartbeat.
To prevent this from happening you should place some blocking, timbers, jack-stands, anything, under the rear of the trailer frame, NOT the dump body. This will support the rear and not allow the weight transfer to occur and thus eliminate the possibility of a problem.
Best of luck.
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So Murf........ you really got me thinking.
It is a bit late to get the pintle hitch/lunette ring set-up you so wisely recommend. What do you think of the ball hitches with the pintle goodies over the top?
Is it a worthwhile alternative?
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Mark it's never too late, it's actually surprisingly simple to convert a ball hitch to a pintle style.
The lunette ring and adjustable height bracket together are about 8" deep, all you have to do is cut the tongue off directly behind the existing coupler and weld on the new coupler set.
The nice part about the adjustable couplers is the style of hitch is then also 'adjustable' since the 2", 2.3125" & lunette ring style couplers all fit into the same base plate.
The down'n'dirty version is, as you mentioned, to use the pintle / ball hitch combo unit. While it's not a perfect system, it certainly is better than nothing.
The two big problems I have with those style hitches are that the lunette ring doesn't sit in them as well, you get a lot of banging around in the coupler, and the ratings are significantly lower on those than on traditional style pintle hooks.
If you have (and use) jackstands at the rear of the dump trailer it negates the dire safety need for a pintle / lunette ring combo IMHO.
Best of luck.
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I use jack stands on the flatbed when I haul the tractor and it is real easy to do so because the end of the trailer frame is so accessible.
The dumper is another issue. I am NOT crawling under that thing at the same landfill where people dump tons of animal poop to set up a jack stand.
I don't weld, and around here the average welding shop will not touch a trailer or a hitch unless they are certified and carry special liability insurance. You wouldn't believe how much it costs to get a small job done under such circumstances.
I have found some combo hitches that fit in a 2 inch receiver on the internet that are rated for a 3000 pound vertical load. My truck weighs 5000 pounds with me in it and the rear end is lighter than the front so it would appear on paper to be strong enough.
I will probably never actually tow something that has a lunette ring. What do you think?
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It just occurred to me that I am making a huge assumption here...... that these things are designed to lock down over the top of a regular trailer hitch.
Now I wonder........
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Mark, didn't they teach you about not second guessing yourself? Just go with your giut feeling?  MAO.
Seriously, you brought up two points.
First jack stands, no need to climb in or under, or do any fancy welding. You can use almost anything. It can be as simple as a piece of rope and two wooden blocks. Take two short(ish) pieces of timber a little smaller than the clearance from frame to ground. Put a screw eye in each end of both, tie a rope between them such that when one block is under the frame, the other is too, then tie a piece of rope to each outiside end also. Then all you have to do is set the blocks dwn behind the trailer, back up another foot or two, and then pull the rope till the blocks are under the frame tails. Voila! Best of all it's cheap!  .
On the other hand, the pintle, yes they are designed to lock down shut, but only over a lunette ring, they are to stay open with a ball hitch. However, if the latch mechanism is removed (one small nut & bolt usually) and ground down some, it can be set to 'lock down' while still open a little bit, enough for the coupler, but not enough to become unhitched.
The other (slightly more spendy) option is to just have a small set of stabilizers installed such as those used on RV's to auto level them. You can get them in individual components, cylinders, etc., seperately, and since you already have hydraulics and controls, installation (no welding required) would be easy to do yourself. You might want help with the hydraulics if you're unsure of how to do it. I'm sure the bunch here could guide you through it 'long distance', it's actually pretty simple.
Best of luck.
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