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Sheet metal rust
Ken,
Working on memory here, but did you not use the metal to just give a smoother surface to a wooden floor to assist in dumping?
If so a thin sheet should be sufficient. Galvanizined will rust if given enough time and wear. Look at old barns.
My thoughts are, it is a trailer you will be using to haul loads you will be dumping. It will get banged and bumped as you use it. If not let me borrow it and it will be.
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Sheet metal rust
Mark, the aluminum would probably work and be easy to install. The extra seams might let more water underneath but they could be caulked.
KT, yep the metal was to make the bottom a little more slippery to ease dumping. The boards that came with the trailer aren't all that thick and will flex some so I thought a thicker gauge metal would help stiffen it some when tossing a big round into the trailer. You're right, it's just a trailer and it will get banged around. So be it.
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Sheet metal rust
I just bought six sheets of steel corrugated roofing sheets (called Grand-Rib 3) for a deck project, they are slicker than all get out, They came in 20' sections and covered 3', cost $17 each. If you wanted a cheap solution and did not mind the corrugations (they could be aligned paralell to the sliding direction) they might work great, better yet if they did not work out you would be out just $51 for a 9' by 20' bed.
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Sheet metal rust
Ken,
I understand how you feel. It did not work the way you expect so, disappointed. Sometimes a little nick makes me forget the blessing of the new item. But a tool only becomes valuable as we use it. I am reminded of that every time I look at my dented tail gate. Thank you Lord for the trailer that did it does not always come to my mind.
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Sheet metal rust
My 12,500 GVW dump trailer has always had 3/4" plywood on the sides, doors and floor. It takes a beating hauling broken concrete. If you put a little sand on the bottom of the traler it help the concrete slide out.
Since your trailer is small you might want to put 3/4" plywood down with 1/4" fender washers at the bolt-down points between the plywood and the steel. These will space it off the steel and let them breathe. Otherwise the paint will blister, fake off and rust in no time just due to temperature changes (condensation) not to mention everyday use or the ocassional washing out. Make the front and sides tight as possible to seal out dirt and water.
A cheap alternative to UHMW (for this application) which is very, very expensive is a child's snow toboggan/sled---the kind that a basically a slippery roll of plastic that rolls up on its own. It'll make cleaning up and dumping so much easier and quicker.
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Sheet metal rust
Why did you not just get a piece of 14ga. aluminum sheared to size?
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Sheet metal rust
Where were you to suggest getting 14 ga. aluminum sheared to size 
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Sheet metal rust
I don't know. It actually just crossed my mind watching Jesse James build a motorcycle on t.v.
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Sheet metal rust
I used some Lexan Sheets that I got from a large commercial sign manufacture, the sheets were only about 3/16 inch thick and were used to cover the fronts of electronic signs/message boards. They cut real easy on a table saw(blade backwards if I remember correctly) and most were 3'X4' but some were broken. We did this about 5 years ago and they have held up real well even over some large rust holes. My dad still uses this trailer mostly for fire wood and mulch, so I don't know how it would hold up with sand or broken concrete.
I'm not sure if that lexan is the same type of plastic Peters is referring to in his post.
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Sheet metal rust
K9: The Lexan doesn't have the self-lubricating, cushioning, machinability and temperature tolerance properties like UHMW. Some places you'll see this is in food manufacturing, the steel stamping industry, and rule-die cutting, to name a few. It's also used for cutting boards in restaurants and homes.
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