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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
Ok, time for more data now that I made it back to Iowa for the weekend. The trailer will haul my tractor and if we don't find a house soon, maybe on more than one trip.
As for the skidsteer issue, the trailer would haul the skidsteer from where ever my brother buys it to his house. From his house it's 3 miles to the lot where he's going to build a house. So after the initial skid steer haul, the trailer will be making 3 miles there and 3 miles back. Again and again and again. Short trips never getting above 45 mph.
I'm set up for 10k lbs with my class IV hitch. Going to a gooseneck puts me into a lot more money than I want to spend as I'd have to equip the truck too.
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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
Does anyone have opinions on brands of trailers?
I found a Keifer built 20ft trailer that is quite nice and has the stands on the loader ramps so your truck doesn't get lifted up when loading something heavy. Other options are PJ and a B&B (I think). The new PJ is close in price to the Keifer so I'd go KEifer. But there is a used PJ for about $1000 less and is in good shape. All are more than I was wanting to spend. But it's hard to find a used utility trailer in decent shape.
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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
Like Wendy's used to say, "parts is parts." Any trailer I bought usually got me on the price first with a very open eye to build quality. Then there's the tires. Are they cheap Chinese ones that will blow out--like mine did? It might be a well-made trailer but did they try to be competitive using cheap tires? If so, how long can you run on them until it costs $800 to replace them? Then there's the axles. Most newer axles are pretty much standard, though you will find some on the 7,000 GVW and less trailers that use the front spindles off full size Ford cars, machine them, and weld them to axles tubes. The result is a trailer that will wear out your tires in as little a few hundred miles since they don't true them up. Do they sandblast and prime the trailer--even underneath? Or do they paint right over the steel foundry oils and scale. Without primer you will be lucky to get half the life out of it. Mine was primered and the salty mud here in Katrina-land is still wreaking havoc---like the underside of the steel deck delaminating and the fenders rusting through. Luckily I'm handy with a welder and can replace the fenders easily.
Oddly, I have 12,500 GVW dump trailer made in Canada by JDJ. It looks like it was welded by 3rd graders with blindfolds on. But it has held up the best from a rust standpoint.
Buy what appeals to your sense of design and sensability, and your wallet.
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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
Ole EW, as someone else here says...the smartest person I know.
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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
Good ol' KT, like Moe from the Three Stooges would say, "Whhhhy, Iiiiiii oughhhhhtta..."
I guess the old addage about opinions doesn't apply here: "Opinions are like ___holes---evreyone has one and they all stink."
Maybe mine stinks more than others---I gotta wonder...
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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
Paint is a BIG issue.
I was really surprised at how quickly a cheap, crappy paint job will rust. And I live in the desert........
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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
There's a questions related to this thread that I have had in my mind for some time now.
The background is that I will most likely be "moving on" relocating somewhere; just don't know when or where yet. I too will probably be buying a trailer prior to hitting the road much like Iowafun is doing. Will most likely get a 18' instead of a 16' so to use for other things later on (like hauling a car if needed).
If I am pulling a privately-owned trailer with my little Case on it along with all of the implements (FEL and MMM attached, tiller, box scraper, 3 pt sprayer, and rolled-up chain harrow), do I have to stop at those weigh stations along the way? Is there anything alse that I would have to do along the trek from a legal, or "have to do" view? How would be the best way to secure the trailer, and all of the goodies on it, when overnighting like at a Residence Inn or a place like that? It would be chained/secured, but put locks on too? I supposed make sure that it is parked in a well-lighted location with lots of traffic going by, or is that a built-in problem (with all of the traffic going by)?
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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
Iowafun:
I'm not familar with any of the brands.
1. You will want ramps as you described for loading heavy equipment.
2. A beaver tail is nice also if you have a MMM with low clearance or something hanging off the back of the 3-point so it don't dig in as you drive on and off.
3. A heavy duty frame like a big "C" frame as Murf mentioned is good or a big box frame. Mine has a 2" x 6" "C" frame which is pretty stout, some are even bigger.
4. You will want standard tires and hubs to keep replacement costs down.
5. The electric brakes should have a small battery box to energize the safety disconnect. If you pull the pin and cable, the brakes should lock. If they don't, the battery may be dead.
6. With the trailer parked on level ground, go back about 25 yards away and look to see if the frame is straight. If you have a good eye, you can notice it. Mine got bent at the shop, when they placed a Roto-Pour (machine that dumps molten metal at the foundry for GM V-8's.)on the right front corner. It still drives and tracks good and is sprung about a 1/2".
7. Most trailers have a bad paint job. If it is nice, it will look bad in a short time.
8. Check out the wiring harness and see if all the lights work. Most generally you will have trouble at some point because of stone chips, mud and moisture.
From your description it looked good, so go for it!
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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
wr5: Unless the officer (DOT) suspects you're making money with it you don't have to stop at the weigh stations. Being overloaded, is another story.
I sue the 2" wide yellow ratchet straps rated at 10,000lb. breaking strength with self-latching, flat (not round wire) S-hooks. The trucker-quality ones have a sewn-in label to verify the strength.
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Hauling the CUT - need trailer
EW - thanks for you opinion. The Keifer looks to have a better paint job. I keep going back to the ramps and think I'll go in that direction as it is the safest for loading heavier, short wheel-base equipment like my tractor and a skid steer.
I'll take a closer look at the Keifer. The PJ had most of the harness in conduit, but anytime the conduit moved, the wire was exposed. I don't know how common that is. I'll just have to check again and make a decision.
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