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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT
Mark's thought is the same as mine. You will want at least 16' of trailer length for tractor and loader, longer for a BH.
Tex Mex makes a nice 16' trailer with 7000 lb capacity (including the trailer). They sell for about $1200. It's the utility style with treated 2x10 floorboards. Brakes on one axle.
Dave
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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT
.....since you ask.....
My ideal trailer will allow me to move tractors, yes, but no TLBs, unless I find a Kubota BX deal. I will also haul other vehicles (nothing big) and heavy attachments like backhoes.
I just bought an 04 Tacoma V6 4WD and my tow capacity is
6000 lb, but I can tell you, 5000 lbs and its a first gear drive up my county road. 
The U-Haul car haulers and all the used ones I have seen are much bigger and heavier than I want. They are usually around 2000#, limiting me to 3000# cargo weight if I keep the gross weight to 5K# or less. Looking over what I have carried or will carry, I can live with the 5.5x12 bed size. If I go with this size, I can get weight down to around 1100#. Narrower width is also much better for narrow mountain roads.
BTW, such a trailer with metal deck and 12" sides makes a dump trailer for hauling sand or gravel. Just use the tractor loader with hitch ball to lift the trailer tongue.
I may need a beefier tongue, however.
Oh yeah, whenever I work with a tractor dealer, I always have them deliver.
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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT
Will a L series Kubota or your 955 fit on this proposed trailer? Why not go with a car-hauler? Cheaper, more capable, usable for other things, will handle a TLB. If you take it easy, you truck will handle it. Width will not be an issue once you are used to it.
Trailers are like tractors or garages, "...once you have one, they're allways too small..."
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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT
"Trailers are like tractors or garages, "...once you have one, they're allways too small..."
I hear ya. I have another trailer that I now use only to carry 20-ft pieces of structural steel and lumber. It weighs about 500# and can carry over 1000#.
My workshop is too small, certainly, but I would rather have multiple trailers (and tractors) for the different jobs required.
My JD TLB only weighs about 4100#, so I could carry it with the trailer if I wanted, but will not likely need to. The nature of my trailer use in my hobbies and business is to acquire stuff. Then when it is sold, some other poor bastard has to haul it, not me.  Sometimes they bring really slick tilt-beds. Nice. The Kubota w/ ldr is about 3600# or so, without attachments and it would fit.
The trailer width reduction is primarily for lighter weight. My county road is also quite narrow and steep. Scares the flatlanders.
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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT
I just saw that this old thread has come back to life. As for me, I found a 2 year old, used twin axle 10K trailer with brakes on one axle for $1100. I had a brake controller added to the Frontier, but am not convinced that its all working correctly. The trailer has done a little light hauling but not the tractor yet. I could lock up the brakes empty on gravel, but during an empty test on pavement, it didn't appear to even slow the idling truck. Time to learn a bit more about how trailer brakes and brake controllers work. The tester I got with the controller says its wired correctly, so it may be the trailer. I haven't taken time to do any diagnostics.
Hopefully I can borrow a bigger truck if I need to move the full load anytime soon. In a few years, I may make the jump to a bigger truck.
All in all, I think either a trailer and good heavy truck or a roll back are the way to go.
-JP
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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT
I am a newbie to the whole business of electric brakes. I plan to install a controller on my Tacoma and go with electrics. Maybe I will learn something here.
Like why do some people say I should go with brakes on both axles of a tandem, when my GVWR is 5-6K#? Law in my state says brakes on one axle reqd if weight of trailer and load is 3K# or more. I do not know what the requirement is for a break-away system. I imagine that varies state-to-state.
I have noticed in renting trailers in the past 30y or so that they are often equipped with surge brakes that sometimes don't work. They also have to be disabled when backing up an incline. Another reason I want to get away from rentals.
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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT
In my experience when you have brakes on one axle of a tandem or other multi-axle trailer the axle with the brakes will "bounce" when braking pressure is applied rendering the brakes nearly useless. I have seen this happen on empty and heavily loaded trailers alike.
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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT
AV8R...
Tell me more about this "bounce" effect. Your hauler looks fairly heavy.....does it have brakes on both axles?
Since electric brakes use electro-magnets, are they all on or all off? I have always wondered about that. If there is no proportional force (as with hydraulics), they must be designed for weak braking action or they will just lock up the wheels.
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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT
While most solenoids we usually use such as for a starter are on/off only the force that is exerted is proportional to the current through them. So they do not have to be simply on or off. My inexpensive brake controler allows adjustment of the maximum braking force and the time it takes to get to that maximum.
Dave
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Before I bought my trailer, I borrowed a friend's with brakes on one axle. When the brake was applied the axle would twist slightly, causing the spring equalizer to lift that axle, then release. This would begin a harmonic "bounce" in the axle which shook the whole thing quite violently. My trailer has brakes on both axles and has never done this all the way up to locking all 4 tires.
An electric brake has a shoe mounted on the solinoid in the drum which pushes against the face of the drum, causing the main brake shoes to rotate around an accentric activating them. The varing current to the solinoid varies the amount of pressure to the secondary shoe which activate the primary brake. The wheel must rotate for the brake to operate.
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