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 01-01-2004, 04:56 Post: 72825
harvey



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 PTO Generators Observations

I got my new Tiger Power generator from Dyna Tech in PA. It is a 20 KW generator. However the 20's were out of stock so they asked if a 30kw would be ok for a subisitute, same money. Uhhhhhhhhhh geezeeeeeee I think it would be ok. Remembering what Art said about to much tractor and not enough generator.

I have HP enough for about 17KW so the 20 was just over the safety line.

Anyway finially got trailer built photo # 7 and tested generator. All breakers off and service disconnected PTO gen to operating speed Volts at 220 and 60kh cycle it came in at 100 rpm less the rated 540 rpm.

Turning everything on in the house did not even phase it. The tractor eng never grunted as the small loads were applied. The tractor did grunt a little and voltage never quivered when the 220 water pump kicked on. I did not try and see if my air compressor or other large stuff would affect it because they would not be used anyway.

I had the gen out the other day and plugged my welder into it and even at the heaviest amp setting and biggest rod I have the tractor only made a very small grunt as arc was struck.

I am a happy camper with this set up. But do think I'll look for a small gen to run wood stove fans at night.






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 01-01-2004, 12:05 Post: 72844
harvey



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Mark yes it's a 30kw gen. 125 main breaker, however the labels read 20 kw because it's what I paid for. I have no issue with that I am pleased with the heavier setup. These folks treated me very good and I appreciate the no cost upgrade. It was only a couple of weeks from time of order till it was at home.

I'd have to look for sure but me thinks my tractor is rated at 2700 for 540 pto? the generator runs at 2600 or 100 rpm below whatever it is rated on the tach.

Tom you are right about the surges with bigger motors. Many times when the milk cooler compressor kicked in it really would make a 100hp tractor grunt, of course big vacum pump running at same time. We won't even discuss silo unloaders. I'm glad most of those are a thing of the past. As I said everything run very smooth with no noticiable fluxuations in the voltage meters. Of course that is why I'm happier with more generator than tractor. A big tractor would melt down a small generator and a big generator will bring a small tractor to its knees with a brown out and no damage done.

Thats why I did not try any of my larger shop tools. I guess I could just to see.

The main purpose of generator is: the boss to keep her shop running along with the computers when she is working, lighting and if I wanna watch TV in the evening. Generally just making things more comfortable for us.






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 01-01-2004, 19:02 Post: 72859
harvey



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Art you must read minds!






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 01-03-2004, 13:24 Post: 72960
harvey



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Grinder that is a awesome batch of info. I particulary liked the part about not tructing the tractor tach. I had already discovered this. My Gen has a voltage and frez meter built in. I used those.

Essentially I think the most imortant thing was not to overload the tractor hp or torque.

I think if you go this route, a test run with someone monitoring your voltage and freq as you add in your essential stuff to run.

There are sheets to add up watts you need to run and how to size your generator.

I oversized my gen because I wanted to have more than enough generator. I just happened to get a bonus. So in my application the tractor hp is the critical factor. I have enough tractor for about 17kw and if I did all of my watt adding right it should be 9kw more than I need, with all things on and starting the water pump.

I have a very good safety net. I would not be concerned about some voltage drops the power company routinely browns out many customers. My critical voltage stuff is all on dedicated power supplies so no problem there.

I'll look up the tiger power link and post this if you are interested.






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 01-03-2004, 13:29 Post: 72961
harvey



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I really need to epmhasise that you do not have to size your generator to the tractor hp. You can get a 20kw generator and only have a 20hp tractor. It just means you have to limit your usage to the hp you have or about 10kw in this case. But that leaves no room for surges.

If you only need 6 kw to run your house you have a very comfortable margin of safety.






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 01-03-2004, 15:09 Post: 72967
harvey



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Here's the link for where my pto gen came from. There is lots of info there also.






Link:   Click Here 

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 01-05-2004, 17:18 Post: 73155
harvey



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Murf you'll gonna make me wet myself... I get to snickering about metric. When we run up in Ontario, all we see is metric numbers...

HOW DOES THAT CONVERT FOR POPULATION??????

Harvey smilin ear2ear...






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 11-13-2004, 20:08 Post: 100308
harvey



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So far I've never "HAD" to use it. But I do get it out a couple of times a year and run my welder with it when I have some serious rod to burn.

It is a good exercise for the gen and keeps all the do-dads tickled and excited in the thing.

The big rods and high amps will make the tractor grunt when the arc is struck and it smooths right out. I've watched the voltage meters with boy striking an arc and they do not even quiver.

ILIKE IT! IF I never have to use it it will be the best money spent.






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 11-18-2004, 03:39 Post: 100486
harvey



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I'm not Bud but I'll try your answer. The archives are full of info and pricing.

Your tractor will run a 10K gen and not overpower it. You can run a larger generator but you will only get about 10K because of your HP.

I opted for a larger gen than my tractor is rated for because the difference in money is not much and I may get a larger small tractor someday, or I could put my old M on it if I had to for a larger welding unit.

I'm limited by HP and not gen me thinks gen should last longer not build as much heat...

Cost of the 20K was around $1900

Harvey






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 01-29-2005, 07:02 Post: 105156
harvey



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I have to ask the question. If the transfer switches only disconnect as an industry standard how do you disconnect the neutral? Do you need to?

As I read all of this I am more confused about the neutral.

I have 2 10' rods 6' apart with 20'of #6 bare copper 12" down laid out in a grid for the utility and a seperate 10' rod for the gen. How in the world could I possibly back feed a neutral? There is also a ground rod connected at the pole.






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 02-06-2005, 04:39 Post: 105575
harvey



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HM Generally that is how many do it. Prioritize the things your need/want to run and put them into a seperate panel with your transfer switch between them.

That is the easiest and simplest way to do it if you feel the need to have the transfer switch, with out, or with, electricians and power companies involved.

Otherwise backfeed! Just make sure you know enough to turn off the main breaker B4 you even consider setting up your generator. Keep a eye on the neighbors to see when power comes back on. Then un hook your gen B4 you touch the main breaker.

If others are going to hook it up I would say with out a doubt get a switch. I think that is the concern with this thread. I do not trust too many other people to be safe either.

A farmer several years ago had a manual switch installed by the power company a big bladed thing on the pole. It failed! one leg did not disconnect and back fed the grid it brought the tractor to its knees. He shut it down. We just had a major failure with the power companys feed. They had to disconnect us for 2 days, at work, while our electroides checked all of our main transformers and sub transformers oils and contact switches. We were on gen power "BACKFED" for 2 days. When the power company reconnected us their switch contacts failed at 10 pm on a Sat night, big arc fire on the pole.

Nothing is FOOL proof. It only takes a small rivit to drop out of a switch blade on the switch and you'll have a live leg back to the grid. I believe Sq D just had a big recall on many of their large switches because a plastic disconnect link failed. When you pull the switch to disconnect the link broke and the line stays hot and the switch is in the off position.

ALWAYS TREAT ELECTRIC LINES AS LIVE UNTIL YOU PUT A METER ON IT.






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