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Wood Garage Doors
I must be a glutton for punishment. I installed wood (hemlock) raised panel garage doors on my home, because the thought of steel doors on a log home bothered me. I stained the doors with Minwax stain, and followed up with 3 coats of Helmsman polyurethane. These doors face east, and really shouldn't be as weathered as the logs that face south on my home.
It's time to refinish them...I am changing (not sure what yet) the stain on our logs, not happy with the durability of that either (I used DEFY water based log stain). Any thoughts on something that will be more durable? I still want to be able to see the beauty of the wood grain, so painting is not an option...anyone have any experience with this?
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Wood Garage Doors
We use Sikkens two-part DEK on our deck. Maybe that would work. On our deck (that gets rained on 6 months of the year) Sikkens only lasts about a year on the horizontal ipe deck boards, however on the vertical cedar posts and stiles it has held up well for six years and still looks like new. Ipe is so hard and non-porous no coating will penetrate but on soft woods it penetrates well and looks wonderful. The cedar looks like mahogany.
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Wood Garage Doors
Dumb question but does anybody use boiled linseed oil anymore? I'm thinking back 30 yaers ago to my gradeschool woodshop class, and that's all we used for finishing.
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Earthworks; In the early 60's we lived on a farm that we rented from an super rich ultra conservative old lady. Every summer she would hire me to paint buildings on that and another farm or two she owned. I think white barn paint was about six or seven dollars a gallon and boiled linseed oil was a buck or less, so her rules were a 50/50 mix of paint and linseed oil. One of those old buildings is still standing, I'm sure I was the last one to paint it, it looks pretty tough now but it still has a hint of white to it but the old boards don't look too bad. A few years ago when I was running the furniture plant a customer wanted boiled linseed oil for a finish on some indoor furniture. We did it on a test piece and found it never got completely dry and would collect dust, so we did'nt use it on the things he wanted. But back to your question, yes it was a great product for outdoor protection, my Dad used to use it on wagon boxes and hay racks that lasted him a lifetime. The old lady I spoke of that I painted for lived on till the early 90's in hermit like connditions, died with tons of money, but I did'nt see a Brinks truck in her funeral procession. Frank.
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blueman,
I would be sure the product has UV protection in it. I really would find a local paint store with experienced people in it as weather can vary so much and what works here may not there.
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Almost all of these products have some UV protection in them. What I've found out since my first post is that Sikkens is indeed the Cadillac product...uh, at a Mercedes price. Even thelogstoredotcom that sells all kinds of products says that they will need to be renewed on logs and vertical wood surfaces every 2-4 years.
Next time I build a log house, I'll use Aluminum siding 
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Wood Garage Doors
Blueman,
What a line...have you thought about aluminum logs?
Last night saw a program on Ferrias and they have a clear coat thay might be just what you want. Just wonder if there is a product in the clear coat for autos that might be your answer. Sometimes the best idea is in use in another industry, just waiting to be discovered.
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OK, I went out and bought a gallon ($65) of Sikkens Cetol Log and Siding. The local dealer told me that several properties of their popular Cetol 1 and Cetol 23+ have been combined and improved upon, allowing Cetol Log & Siding to perform as well or better...and with only 2 coats. I've only put one coat on so far...the weather has not been cooperative, but it doesn't have the gloss on the doors that I was hoping for. Time will tell if it lasts...that's the most important to me.
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