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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
I have a '03 4x Ram diesel H.O. with the 4:10 anti-spin axle in the rear. Like another post said, if you get stuck, like I did the other day on ice, put it in LOW, get the trans to shift into 2nd and tap the brakes--this will cause the spinning tire to slow and conversely, the one that is not spinning to spin. This is a trick I used to do on my off-road Jeeps that had 35" tires AND open diffs. This works better with taller/meatier tires (more mass) if you let them all come to a stop, then engage them all at the same time--the torque tends to split to all four tires equally even when one is not able to spin. I had an engineer in our Jeep club tell me this defies the laws of physics---and he watched me do it! Works every time.
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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
I installed a Powertrax unit in my D80 open diff. Due to my installation error the unit broke almost immediatly. Richmond gear stood behind their unit and repaired it for no charge. The second installtion went smoothly and the unit has been trouble free since then. This unit definetly works. The tire are locked together most of the time. You do get the ocassional bang or clicking as the unit ratchets. There is also a slight surge as the inside tire is accelerated when cornering. For the cost difference of swapping in the Powertrax vs having the rear end reset for a new differential, I feel it has a excellent value.
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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
What seems to be working well for me is that I added a composite box to the bed and filled it with about 400 lbs. of lead weights. The added weight in the bed greatly help traction and I rarely get tire spin. I don't even miss the limited slip diff. now.
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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
I have a factory limited slip differential on the Tundra. I can drive just about anywhere on my land and off road in two wheel drive.
I have driven similar trucks on the same land and they don't go anywhere without 4wd engaged.
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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
Almost 200k on the Dodge (150k on the Loc-Rite) and still like it. Truck is semi-retired now (diesel is now just below $3/gallon) but it has been a great adder to the truck, IMHO.
Like I said before, near worthless without a traction aiding device, in 2wd. (94 Cummins-Dodge, 5 speed, 4x4)
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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
I have the stock limited slip Dana in the 2000 Dodge 3500. I have not had it off road much and have had it stuck but pulled out of it. I took it through the passes in California and Oregon last year when they were demanding chains. With the 5 speed and limited slip it was no problem. I was passing the 4x4 as they don't know how to drive in snow.
I had the diff oil changed last year (75K). You need to baby the Dana limited slip as with the clutches it does wear the oil more than you expect.
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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
Like Randy, I think a little weight over the drive tires helps a bunch too.
According to the plow manufacturer my truck needs a minimum of 700 # of ballast, all of it as far behind the rear axle as possible when snow plowing. I run 1,000 # and it makes a huge difference, plow or not.
When we order the trucks we rarely spec. them with L/S unless it's a 2wd truck, or a 1/2 ton gas truck, the diesels just rip them up anyways.
My truck walks in & out my cottage road (goat path?) in 2WD like it's a half-track, as long as I have some weight over the back 4 wheels. Empty the truck spins on wet asphalt under normal acceleration.
Best of luck.
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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
Gee....... ballast equals traction? Where have we heard that before?
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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
The last time I was in Ontario it started to snow so I threw in about 1200 lbs of wood pellets and filled the tank. No problem.
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Differential Lockers and Limitied Slip Units
Maybe I wasn't clear enough......
In the PC terminology, my truck is tractionally challenged.
If traction was rated as a 1 to 10 scale, 10 being unspinnable, 1 being "you're going nowhere", my truck kind of lines up like this.
On dry pavement at say 72°, the unladen rear end is about a 4.
On wet pavement, the unladen rear end is about a 2.
Moderate ballast basically doubles those numbers. The 1,000 # I run all winter makes it nearly unstoppable.
A locking or L/S rear end wouldn't be anywhere near as good at getting, and keeping, the truck rolling.
So, my point was, IMHO the rear end lock is only the thin edge of the (highly over-rated) 'traction' wedge.
Why spend hundreds of dollars for something that likely won't do jack anyways. Toss some weight on the drive tires and just be done with it.
Best of luck.
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