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Electric Angle Grinders
You might wanna consider a 6" wire cup. I use 2" on the 4.5 and 6" on the 9" the cups with twisted braids do the job.
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Electric Angle Grinders
Harvey's bang on.
You don't want to use a regular wheel like you would have on a bench grinder. Those are designed only to work on the face of the radius. You want the cup style with twisted or 'knotted' wires. They are designed to work on a surface that is perpendicular to the spinning shaft, not parallel to it.
Best of luck.
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I'd meant to add when buying the "cutting disks" not the "grinding disks" it is inpairative that you get the correct ferrous or non ferrous.
Used in the wrong application they will come apart at full speed.
Our mechanic using ferrous Zip on aluminum took 25 stiches to close up cuts when disk came apart grabbed in the cut and grinder went up his hand and arm. He had on leather gloves, long sleeve shirt, goggles and face shield. It shreaded the glove and the shirt was meaningless. I was reviewing the accident and found he had had 3 disks come apart on the project. When questioned he stated he did not know there was a difference.
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I'd meant to add when buying the "cutting disks" not the "grinding disks" it is inpairative that you get the correct ferrous or non ferrous.Used in the wrong application they will come apart at full speed. Our mechanic using ferrous Zip on aluminum took 25 stiches to close up cuts when disk came apart grabbed in the cut and grinder went up his hand and arm. He had on leather gloves, long sleeve shirt, goggles and face shield. It shreaded the glove and the shirt was meaningless. I was reviewing the accident and found he had had 3 disks come apart on the project. When questioned he stated he did not know there was a difference.
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Now that's very helpful information! I'm amazed that ferrous vs. non-ferrous makes a difference. I could see something special for stainless but wouldn't have considered this. The only metal cutting experience I have is with a dremel (those little carbon cutting disks explode pretty easy), a hacksaw (powered and not), and a sawzall.
The other thing about with electric angle grinders is heat. I've used electric drills that get so hot you can't hold them. Generally with air tools that isn't an issue. Do some of these things heat up so quick that you have to let them cool frequently? Or can they be used for long periods of time?
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They have a duty cycle just like welders or any other electric tool, but I've used my Makita continously for long stretches; only once did it pop the built-in circuit breaker. Wire-brushing or grinding with a flap-disc, I doubt you could overheat one. Maybe if you were doing heavy cutting. On my Makita, the tool itself doesn't get hot to the touch.
I've also cut ceramic tile with mine, with the correct ceramic-cutting metal blade.
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I'd meant to add when buying the "cutting disks" not the "grinding disks" it is inpairative that you get the correct ferrous or non ferrous....
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I've never seen non-ferrous cutting wheels, unless they are the same ones used for ceramic or concrete. Is there a special non-ferrous metals cutting wheel?
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The aluminum cutting I believe has a material that doesn't load up or plug up with the softer material. The steel cutter will load or plug with the non ferrous metals and when more pressure is applied to get it to cut it makes it worse then use more pressure and the wheel comes apart.
That was my understanding when I talked to the Walter people (Manafacturer).
We have both types on the service trucks and in the shop supply cabinet. Observing after the accident it does make a difference. Same as cutting with a dull knife vs sharp.
ADDED: www.walter.com ZIP ALU cut off wheel for alu, ZIP wheel 27 cut off wheel steel/stainless. This web site has more than most people ever will want to know about grinding and cut off.
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