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Let s play Stump the mechanic
I would say a restriction in the core. Just because it flows good does not mean the volume that is need is there.
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I appreciate everyone's thoughts.
Wingwiper -
It must be our premium air up here! 
Now that I have installed a tee in line of the radiator (basically to flush with), I have a means to check the pressure as well. I will be ptting a garden hose on the tee, and starting the engine with a return flow thru the radiator cap neck (to keep it from running dry)...just for that reason - to check for flow and pressure from the pump.
I do not believe that this is a vacuum issue because the only element that is vacuum controlled, is that of the MAX Air circuit (of which does work as it should), where all the heat controls are still mechanical in nature, ie cable.
(yes, the cable has been checked and rechecked, and is throwing and pulling in the correct distances and closure/opening operations)
The core, I do not believe to be the issue area either, as I have very good flow thru it - including heat. As mentioned, I put a small pony pump on it of which delivers comparable pressure to that of the water pump, and it flowed in and out without concern...especially at low pressure levels. I have also checked the hoses for collapse, however are ok (good).
Murf - That is an interesting point, as I put a "new" reman. water pump in. Not saying that is it perse, however certainly offers potential to check on. I would think, that if the pump had been manufactured outside of tolerance, that it would have a difficult time building pressures, and if it did build, it would not hold. (?)
When I run the vehicle, I get a strong pressure right from the beginning, and never faulters (I mean we are only talking 14-15 psi anyway)
The original t-stat, from Ford, had a ball check valve on the flange, to allow a release of any trapped air to escape prior to the t-stat opening under temperature control. The replacement did not have this. I was advised to drill a small (2-3mm) hole where the ball check would have been located, just to simulate the operation of pre-air release, if you will.
This infact did work for the trapped air aspect, however, as one could imagine, it now takes almost an hour for the engine to reach "normal" operating temp zone. So, I will replace the t-stat again, possibly with the check valve variety if I can find one.
What I am leaning towards, is possibly getting a higher temp t-stat. It had a 195 degree in it, with little heat that I can remember. I am starting to think, so long as every component is new and perfectly wide open, the likely hood of overheating will be slim, especially as I cannot get much heat to begin with. So why not put in a higher temp t-stat?
The present operating temp, is barely cracking into the "normal" range (WAY down on the low side).
- Willie H
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Let s play Stump the mechanic
Willie, you're missing one small point here.
In a coling system pressure is created by confining liquid and forcing it to a higher boil point.
The water pump only circulates the water.
If you have a 15 PSI rad. cap and the engine reaches operating temp. the system will have 15 PSI even without a water pump. In fact many Asian spec. machines don't even have a water pump, circulation is accomplished purely by convection.
The better test would be to put a pony pump in line between engine and heater core, get engine to temp, and check heat with pump off, then switch it on and see if you get dramatically more heat. I'm guessing you will.
The problem with the poor remans was the excessive clearance between the impellor and the housing. The impellor would let so much fluid by that between the resistance to flow in the heater core and the lack of flow, it was just easier for the water to take the path of least resistance and not go through the heater core.
Best of luck.
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Murf -
Yea you're right. I'll put the pony in line as see what develops....
Forget the truck for a moment, right now I am not firing on all cylinders - I am suffering of late (really in pain) as I find myself in and out of dental offices with emergency surguries. (rather wasted on meds, and trying to figure out this heating system at the same time...)
Do I know how to have fun or what?!
- Willie H
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Alright, now I am really scratching my head. Now the tekp gage does not even come up to the lowest point in the "normal" range....then it does then it dumps out all together.
So I am thinking air in the system at this point. I vacuum the system, check for any leaks (none are found), and refill the system slowly from the vacuum reservoir. Now I know that at least 99% of the air has been vacated.
I start it up again, let it run, and run, and run, and run, with revving and high speed running too. No read on gage and no heat.
T-stat gone now? Always a possibility that a new one is bad I guess.....
- Willie H
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Willie, right back to what I said earlier, if the water pump isn't pumping, it won't displace any air trapped in the system either!!!
There's an old trick I've used before, CAREFULLY!!!!
When the engine is hot, and the system has a little pressure, carefully loosen the temp. sender. If there is air trapped it will hiss out past it, if not there will be coolant from the start.
If the temp. sender reads tiddly-squat (check it with a meter) when a thermometer tells you the coolant is say 175°, then you have a) air next to the sender, b) a bad sender, c) faulty wire leading to the meter, or d) your meter went south.
Best of luck.
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03-20-2006, 18:20 
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