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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
Hi guys, I've been looking around for a truck for awhile and I just ran into a 2000 F-250 4x4 SuperCab-Super Duty Diesel 7.3, looks great, with 70,000 miles. The dealer has it out for $24,000,
I would have to finace. Has this year had any big issues, what kind of life could I expect from it?
Thanks,
Brian
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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
1999 was the first year for the new Super-Duty design. I had understood that this first year had some problems on a few units with the front ends. They had problems with the camber. It was a problem that didn't seem to go away. I'm told it was corrected in the late model 99's. When you test drive the truck, see if it has a problem wandering all over the road. It should drive straight without much steering wheel corrective movements. If it wanders, it has that problem, and stay away from it. The guys farming my property have (4) 2000 to 2004 models, some 250 & 350's. They did manage to rip a few front ends out on the earlier models but I think that was from abuse. They use them really, really hard at times. Ford has progressively made a few changes through this model line-up. You will see the headlights are slightly different and the newer models have more instruments like a transmission temperature gauge, etc. All that isn't absolutely necessary.
I would check the dipsticks on both the engine and transmission to look for discoloration and check out the oil in the pumpkins. I would look at tire wear and have the brakes checked. Brake service depends on driving conditions and habits. My neighbor up north has a 2001 F350 and bought it with 80,000 miles last summer. He did the first brake job on it at 95,000. He gets around 20 mpg when driving under 70 mph.
In my area $24,000.00 for a 2000 year model with 70,000 is on the high end of pricing. If it is real clean, with good rubber and brakes it sounds good. A mid-range price would be about $22,000.00 through a dealership in my area when viewing autotrader.com. A good clean used truck is hard to come by and if the dealer has one, he can sometimes get top dollar for it.
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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
I would not be doing lots of heavy pulling, only pull my full setup 790 around here and there eventually. Could I expect some great life out of it?
It an automatic.
The blue book private sale price is 18,990 and the dealer trade is 16,105.
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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
Everybody that I know drives automatics. You should be able to get 250,000 to 300,000 miles out of a diesel. I sold my old '89 F-250 V-8 to a local farmer when I got my 02 F-250 V-8. It is still running strong but he ruptured a brake line and broke off the exhaust going through harvested cornfields and plowed ground. I had the bed Rhino coated since the paint and galvanized coating was worn off from shoveling driveway stone and the box started to get rusty.
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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
I have 102000 on my 2kPSD.The only real issues were front brakes. I'm on my third set of rotors and pads. Rotors warped badly and turning just makes it worse.On the other hand ,the rear pads are original.Transmissions were weak if you towed w/o a big cooler.Ive run Amzoil synthetic in the motor,trans, and difs since new and not had problems.Trans problems were related to heat and in 99 and early 200o, ,converter vanes that came loose.The converter vanes always fell apart by 40k or so miles if they were going to. Later models have brazed vanes.The non greaseable u-joints went away at 60k, but thats not bad.Ball joints were loose and the wander showed up at 70k,I put greaseable replacements in. Warning!, if you cant do the ball joints yourself, be prepared to spend about $1000 on this repair.
Overall its been a good unit,considering the use Ive given it.
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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
TRBOMAX;
Ford has several different torque converter impellers that they use in their F series trucks and E series vans. The vanes have different twist angles for different engine sizes and torque loads. All of the diesel series are brazed and have been brazed for more than a dozen years. That is the most durable impeller from Ford. The brazing causes some warping and is difficult to machine since it is out of round and out of flat and hard to set up for proper machining. On very rare occasions, a bad braze may be encountered. Very high pressures are involved when producing the torque that a diesel puts out. Ford has very high quality control measures in place to prevent them from getting outside their plant in Sharonville, OH. My workholding products have been used on these since 1993 for manufacturing them to very tight tolerance characteristics. The failure rates are quite low. Sorry to hear about your bad converter. There is allot more to the converter than the vanes. There are two halfs that are precision machined and then welded together. Maybe your failure was a pressure leak which is more common.
My neighbor replaced his u-joints himself at about 90,000 miles. I didn't feel nor hear any vibration when riding with him. Doubt if it needed to be done. He did it himself with the help of another neighbor but needed to purchase a removal tool that cost about $100.00.
My neighbor also did his brake job. At about 95,000 miles it was the first time the brakes had been touched. He had the rotors turned and it worked out well. If you have warped rotors, after market ones are quite inexpensive but may have some flutter in them from the start. My workholding equipment isn't used on Ford brakes, so I can't vouch for the quality. My workholding equipment is used on GM trucks that are produced through DELPHI Chassis in several plants in the US & Mexico. Those rotors are about the best in the industry with regard to flatness and runout specifications. Ford's pads generally outlast GM pads by 2:1.
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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
The truck sounds good! The steering felt alittle loose, it just may be i'm not use to it.. I didnt reallize it had two batteries. The rear rotars have some rust on them, so if i go with the truck i'll try to get them to replace the rears. The wire harness on the back is totally corroded..
Now I just need to get the dealer to work the price and/or sell my 2000 Nissan Sentra.
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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
Yooperpete, you're right that factory brake rotors are often better than aftermarket ones, but there isn't a rotor made that I would trust without putting it a lathe first to check. I've seen brand new rotors so warped out of the box that they were out of spec by the time they were turned true.
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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
The front end problems that TRBOMAX and I mentioned has to do with the ball joints. If it seems loose, I'd test drive a new one for comparison. I'd be concerned with that issue. Just from setting around the rotors get rusted pretty fast. My cars rust up overnight in moist air or rain. They clean themselves in just a few brakings. If the rears aren't working properly, the calipers can get rusted and seize up being non-funtional. I'd have the dealer make sure the rears are working. If the calipers are bad that is an expensive fix (i.e.$500.00+ range with rotors). If just the trailer electrical connection plug is corroded they can polish it up and spray it with an electrical spray. I frequently squirt a dabb in both ports.
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2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
yooperpete, I know what you mean by the surface rust, my wife's car does the same thing. However with the truck there is something more. The rotors are only being half uses. normal smooth bight steel, and above rotor that has not been rubbed in awhile..
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