| |
|
|
Charging Voltage Level
ncrunch,you need to check that you have all the circuits off and then check for resistance on the battery terminals. If there is an open circuit it will show up.
Does the boat have an automatic bilge pump. If you have a leak this will draw down the battery in a hurry.
Be aware if there is current to a metal part on the boat you can get electrolysis happening and corrosion of the metal part. This is more problematic in salt water as a small bleed of current can cause problems, but with 12 volts and a ground metal in contact with the water anymetal can corrode.
Most likely it is a small circuit like a clock which is staying energized or a small short in the battery allowing it to self discharge.
|
|
 Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
|
Charging Voltage Level
Thanks Peters, the boat is out of the water on a trailer when not in use - so it should not be the bilge pump. I will check the resistance. Thanks for the advice! I guess another option I might have would be to just put a battery switch in to disconnect it when not in use.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
|
Charging Voltage Level
Remove the cable from your negative (-) battery post. Set a multimeter for DC amps. Put the negative (black) test lead on the battery (-) post. Put the positive (red) test lead on the end of the (-) cable you just removed. . Anything greater than 34 milliamps (0.034a) is considered parasitic drain, and is responsible for slowly discharging your battery. Keeping the multimeter in series between the battery and the cable, open up the fuse box. Pull one fuse at a time, while watching the multimeter for a drop in the amperage reading. That may not find the exact location of the short, but it sure narrows things down a bit.
//greg//
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
|
Charging Voltage Level
I had the same issue with my Suzuki Samurai.
Even a new battery work discharge inside a week.
I finally tracked it down to an aftermarket Tach. I disconnected it and the battery now holds a charge.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
|
Charging Voltage Level
Greg, thanks for the precise instructions. I can put my multimeter to work. DRankin, I wonder if it has to do with my voltmeter malfuctioning or maybe my depthfinder. Definitely this battery should not discharge so quickly.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
|
Charging Voltage Level
Awhile back I read about a new BMW model that had a similar problem with the battery going dead in a week if the car wasn't driven. It was in the electronics - many of them don't really shut off anymore. I'm working on a product right now that doesn't shut off even when the user presses the off button. It's a lot of extra code to make behave like it's shut off when it's really not. Sort of dumb but that's the way processors with "power management" work. Some part of the cpu stays awake to monitor inputs that tell it when to turn back on. That takes some power. It shouldn't take much but it adds up over time, esp. if there's a lot of electronics in a vehicle. It could be your depth finder or the fancy radio you installed. A battery cutoff would make sure off is off.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
|
Charging Voltage Level
Greg is for the most part right. But you want to use the positive side of the battery. and the turn you meter to amps. and hook it up in series with the post and the cable. The start pulling fuses to you read zero amps.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
|
Charging Voltage Level
Yep, its the new fangled stereo that is draining the battery. I measured 43 milliamps being drained off. Thanks guys!
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
Gas Generator Weather Protecti
10-04-2006, 07:56 
Pics
Reply
Digg It 
Del.icio.us 
