| Click to Post a New Message!
Page [ 1 ] |
|
|
|
Trane Air Conditioning Compressor Assembly
The AC tech recommended that I get a special condenser coil chemical to spray on it to help it cool better.
Got the chemical, but unlike some simpler units that have the condenser core exposed, mine is a Trane XL1200 that has a separate blower cover, and a full housing with louvers around it that prohibits spraying it from the outside. Also this condenser has a different config than most with pipes surrounded by aluminum brushs rather than the very tight fins I see on most units. So I am wondering if the chemically cleaning the core is even relevant.
Anyway I thought the side panels would just unscrew, but it seems I would have to remove the fan assembly to do this as well. As its really hot and it is working I am reluctant to take it apart just hacking it and was wondering if anyone had a similiar unit and they could offer any advice on gaining access to the core.
|
|
 Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Trane Air Conditioning Compressor Assembly
I am not exactly sure what your AC tech is talking about. There is no chemical that you can apply to your heat exchanger that will make it work better other than cleaners or water. If it is loaded with dust, then this might be called for, otherwise it is not necessary.
The best heat exchange occurs when there is little/no dirt and dust on the heat exchanger fins. Sometimes the type of heat exchanger that you describe is called a "pin fin". They are quite efficient. One downside is that they are extremely fragile. With a plate fin exchanger, you can use a comb type device to straighten the fins, but with a pin fin unit the distribution is somewhat random and if you smash any of them getting the housing off, you will affect airflow and efficiency. My gut feeling is that there is more chance of damaging some fins on a unit that has to be disassembled than efficiency gains that you might achieve.
If the AC unit was properly sized and working at one time, then Freon loss is a more likely culprit. Twenty year old units often still work very well. Is there any place on the AC plumbing that looks oily? When freon leaks it often carries lubricating oil with it. There is nothing in an AC system that should be oily. The AC tech can use a sniffer to detect a freon leak and fix it or he can get paid to put in more freon every year or two.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Trane Air Conditioning Compressor Assembly
AC5ZO,
The AC Tech said that the unit was performimg to factory spec because there was a 21 degree difference in temperature between the feeder duct and the return duct. Therefore he said it did not require more refrigerant.
The XL1200 was the super high efficenecy 8 years ago, and the pin fins sure seem more delicate, hence the need for the protective housing around it.
Here is picture of what the current version of the unit looks like today.
The top weather protector cover comes off easily it is just spring mounted. The side panels that mount between the corner towers are attached with six sheet metal screws. But it seems that to get them to slide out you would have to take the top of the unit off. The top contains the blower fan and has maybe 25 sheet metal screws in all holding it. It is not clear which of the 25 need to come off to get the side panel out. Seems like alot of work just to rinse the coils off.
Another thing I was wondering is if anyone cleans the evaporater in their system, that seems to be another potential source of efficiency loss. As this is part of the furnace I wonder if the oil guy has even looked at it when he cleans the combustion chamber annually?
Link:
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Page [ 1 ] | Thread 114253 Filter by Poster:
1 | 2 |
|
()
Picture of the Day
Coachlarry
Unanswered Questions
Active Subjects
Hot Topics
Featured Suppliers
|
Gas Generator Weather Protecti
08-02-2005, 16:58 
Digg It 
Del.icio.us 
