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Loose brick on Hearth
I hit the corner brick on my hearth with a log so it separated from the cement. It was cantilevered to the side and front so not much adhesion. The brick can be removed leaving all the joint cement in place.
I want to leave the joint cement in place so that it matches the fireplace if possible. Any ideas on what I could use to get it to adher to the old joint cement.
I was thinking of tile thin set but that might be too much material, Maybe wall tile cement? Ideas
http://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/dennisctb30.jpg
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Loose brick on Hearth
Dennis, from what I can see of that photo it looks like the brick in question is the last brick of a soldier course on the outside left of the fireplace hearth.
If that is the case the fix is remarkably simple.
Go to your local home center and get some "construction adhesive", we use Bulldog Premium PL but any good product will work.
If you don't already have it, you will also need a 'pipe clamp' long enough to span the entire hearth.
Put a thin coat on the long side where the mortar used to hold it in place and a little on the mortar itself as well. you can also put a bit on the short sides, but it will be harder to clamp.
Put the pipe clamp across the entire hearth and squeeze the daylights out of it!! Seriously, you want to clamp it so hard that the adhesive is reduced down to nearly nothing.
When it dries (2 to 3 days to be safe, longer if you can) use a small utility knife to carefully remove any adhesive that squeezed up out of the crack.
Best of luck.
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Loose brick on Hearth
Murf,
Hmmm I have a new tube of construction adhesive on hand, have the pipe clamp, but need a longer pipe.
What about putting adhesive on the bottom of the brick?
Thanks!
Dennis
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Loose brick on Hearth
IMHO, along the lines of CA I'd use a formulation made for cementious landscaping retaining wall blocks which are IMO made for the brick and the mortar (alkalinity/chemical reaction??)
Other options are Gorilla-brand adhesive (urethane) which uses moisture in the air to cure it--be sure to clamp it as it does expand. Excess can be easily scraped off.
Or contact cement used for laminate counter tops. I experimentally installed a marble floor in my foyer directly over a non-sealed particle board floor 15 years ago and it has not cracked or delaminated. Note that contact cement won't require clamping--but you generally have one chance to install it--it grabs tenaciously upon contact. If you screw up simply drip lacquer thinner in the joints to soften it, let dry for a day or so and lightly recoat.
In either case if it were me I'd "let" or scrape the mortar the thickness of card stock (.003" to allow for the added thickness of the glue/cement/adhesive.
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Loose brick on Hearth
Dennis, as Jeff mentioned, sorry I misssed stating it, thee are different formulations of construction adhesives. Read the labels, they will say what they're for.
As for the bottom, yes it can be done, but unless you have a LOT of weight to pile on top, how could you clamp it downwards?
Best of luck.
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Loose brick on Hearth
I've got the same problem only on the outside of the house. Several pieces of the limestone cap on the brick have came loose from the mortar. The house is 14 yrs. old, I noticed them loose a couple years ago. So far they are just stting there not causing a problem but I really should fasten them back down. Any experience there with an adhesive? Frank.
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You want an adhesive that won't shrink on drying, an important feature of construction adhesives. But if the brick will get hot, you'd want a masonry-based or a high-heat adhesive such as RTV. I think brick is too rough for a contact cement.
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Loose brick on Hearth
Dennis, this is the stuff I was talking about. We use it to stick retaining walls together, it's top drawer stuff.
Frank, same stuff for you, just be sure you have solid material behind it to stick it to.
Best of luck.
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Loose brick on Hearth
If you're interested in where the "PL" comes from, the original product was PL (for Plasticon) 400. Would stick anything to anything; I stocked it by the case of jumbo-size tubes. Also came in pails. Doesn't run, barely shrinks. Takes a day to solidify. Not easy to work in the meantime because it skins over.
That company then offered variants: PL200, a bit weaker, regular-size tubes, for non-professional use. They also have a PL500, I think for styrofoam, which the other PL products eat through.
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Loose brick on Hearth
Murf, Dennis has a Kubota with FEL on it. That should be enough weight to hold that brick down. On the serious side plastic coated weights should be safe to the brick. Just stack them safely. Just be sure you don't glue them there.
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