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Terracing my property
Sounds like you're coming along pretty well with all this stuff.
The way a box scraper works largely is determined by the angle of the cutter to the ground. A hydraulic top-link changes that angle. Shortening the link rolls the back of the box up and makes a sharper blade angle that produces a more aggressive cut, lengthening it reduces the cut and can reduce it to the point where it doesn't cut at all. Material just stays in the box and can be dragged around. Lengthening it further allows material to go under the cutter, which spreads the material. Top-link adjustments are reversed when using the rear cutter.
What I meant by 'on the fly' is that the top-link adjustment can be changed without stopping the tractor. There may be very fancy scrapers that have built-in hydraulics to change the blade angle. Most people have simple ones that require a separate hydraulic top-link.
What I meant by 'touch the 3ph' is change it. About the only times I change the 3ph is 'up' for transporting the box or dumping a full box and 'down' to start cutting. Occasionally I have pull up the box if I seriously run out of traction but that's when I make a mistake. It does mess up the nice grade I'm trying to work. Most times when I run out of traction I can reduce the load enough by lengthening the top-link. You may have figured out this top-link adjustment stuff already, but if you haven't it will make scraper work a relative breeze.
Getting the run-off to go in a ditch rather than along a road is half the battle. Then the ditch rather than road erodes. If a ditch does erode, it can be filled with large aggregate that will most times halt the erosion. For compacting, I get best results by holding down pressure on a fairly flat loader bucket and driving backwards. The technique usually requires brake steering and should be done on significant side grade only with extreme caution. I get fairly decent compacting with my box scraper by lengthening the top-link to max so the box rides on it's fixed rear cutter. In practice, I get compacting done by doing some of each. I don't know if your scraper has a fixed or swinging rear cutter but either will do the same work. Hope all these works help.
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Terracing my property
I forgot the about trenching question. I don't know the diameter of pipe or depth needed. I've heard of people using sub-soilers or middle-busters (lister plows) for similar work. They are a little like big scarifiers and I think they can be rigged for one cutter.
I think various width cutters are available for them and they do throw the soil in both directions, which makes sort of a furrow. Sizable rocks in the soil may give them trouble and they may not open a wide enough trench deep enough for the pipe. People also use one bottom moldboard plows. Since I don't have any of these I'd have to use my backhoe or rent a trencher. Rocks also give hoes and trenchers problems.
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Terracing my property
Tom
I am getting better at seeing what you are talking about in my head, but is still difficult to get the complete picture. Wish there were someone to show me or that I could watch doing thier work; that is the best way that I learn. All my life I have never been around any tractor or anyone that drove a tractor, so getting a real hang of it is rather difficult. There are so many things to think about when you are driving. But I suppose after awhile it will become second nature to me.
What am I going to do about the hudge rock in the middle of the road that I cant seem to move? Guess I could just leave it there and straddle it when driving on that road. Only thing is - it is right in the middle where the turnaround hase to be soooo... I just dont know. I could always work around it then after I'm done see how much of a problem it creates, yes? Course working around it is going to have to be done very causiously.
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The diameter of the pipe is 3/4" which needs to be laid at least 18" deep. I'll look into renting or go to the supplier or... have one made that can be attached to the bottom of the ripper.
Do you have experience with the commericial chipper shredders? I've used my newly purchased PTO driven Bear Cat for only two days now. The chipper works like a dream, chewing up 5"x5' branches in a matter of seconds. But almost every time small branches (less than 1" in diameter) and leaves are added to the shredder it clogs up. I Spoke to the manufacturer on the phone yesterday, he said in a matter of words that you had to be carefus what you put in the shredder, even small limbs should be put in the chipper. Well, a chipper only I could have bought from where I purchased the tractor but they only carried chippers. I wanted to upgrade from the small chipper/shredder that I already have. I'm discusted and about ready to send the darn thing back. The shredded on the small machine does better than the new one and also has gotton clogged only twice in the 8 years I have had it. Humph!
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Terracing my property
Reberta, despite what most women think, gravity is a GOOD thing,  .
Carefully dig a hole on the downhill side of the rock, dig the downhill side of the hole all the way out until it meets the existing grade, then roll it out and down the hill. If this is not practical, then dig a hole larger and deeper than the rock and RIGHT next to it then tumble it over in to the deeper hole and bury it.
If neither of these ideas seem workable your only other solution is to raise the road bed over that area if possible, or extend the road out further past it and make the turnaround beside it instead of over it.
Best of luck.
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Terracing my property
The web link below goes to an old discussion about using plows for shallow trenching. I don't know if any of the ideas would work very well for 18" minimum trenching or if there were many buried rocks. I also don't know how much HP and traction it takes to pull a sub-soiler 18" deep.
Full of 'I don't know's today' so I'll keep going. There was another old discussion where somebody rigged something to maybe a sub-soiler so it pulled line through and laid it on the bottom of the trench as the tractor drove forward. Trouble is that I can't recall if it was irrigation or electrical line and I don't have a clue what the subject title was.
Murf gave the basic solutions if the rock is a large but loose one. A bunch of rock faces in the roads around here are part of bedrock and there's no solution short of blasting or re-routing. Some rock does break pretty easy with sledges but that's not work I'm inclined to do.
I was able to move a slab of concrete by getting the loader bucket under a corner and levering it up the with bucket curl enough to pitch shovels of sand under it and a ramp in front of it. Eventually I raised it enough that I could get a chain around it and drag it out. The slab was way too heavy for my loader to lift, but the bucket would lever it up. Murf described similar ways a rock can be rolled rather than dragged. Have to take a lot of care doing this type work. There's always danger of the rock slipping off the bucket or shifting. I sure wouldn't want any part of me under of near the rock and I wouldn't want to be in a hole along with the rock.
If it's a big problem, building the road over the rock may be easier. Road building is a bit of an art and a permanent solution may require a level bed cut below grade either side of the rock and application of rip-rap and large gravel I mentioned.
Link:
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Terracing my property
If you're running the chipper below PTO RPM the shredder may be more prone to clogging. It'd be nice to come up with a simple solution. If it's leafs that are clogging it, I'd be pretty unhappy with the performance as well. I'm not sure if some shredders are more tolerant to wet material than others but I haven't heard complaints about clogging and there have been a fair number of discussions about them here.
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There is a very great difference in both the design and principle of by which they operate between a shredder & a chipper.
A chipper is a series of rotating knives fastened to either a drum-like arrangement, or a plate that spins. The knives are fixed to the rotating memeber adjoing a hole in said member, they are adjusted so that the knife can only take a set sized peice off the wood being fed through, kind of like a woodworkers plane. This controls the speed at which the machine can process wood down to a point which it can handle.
A shredder on the other hand is best described as a flail mower in a box, there is a rotating axle on which a series of moveable blades are attached. As the axle spins centrifugal force makes them stand out at their full length, material is then fed into this area and the knives repeatedly strike the material until it is small enough to pass a restricor device at the output opening. This design however allows for a much larger quantity of material to be put in at once, if it is material which is hard for the flail knives to process, like small twigs which are inserted parallel to the direction of rotation and therefore not hit very often, it is very easy indeed to overwhelm the machine. On the other hand, bulky material like leaves can be processed far faster with this type of design.
We find that the best way to clear material like this is to (if possible) time the work in such a way as to be cutting and chipping this material early in the spring, before it bears leaves, then it can all just put through the chipper since it is bare twigs only.
Best of luck.
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Hey!
To all you guys who helped me so much with advice and info on terracing my property. I have finished one terrace in the south grove; one of the road turn-around cutouts fillups and other asundry projects. plus digging and pulling out 8 dead or deased trees. Just wanted to give you all an update since you havent heard from me in quite a while. Plus - in a totally unrealated subject ... sold my first painting.
Thanks again
Reberta
oh I also solved the chipper problem by using a smaller grate, worked wonders. no more clogging.
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Thanks! Good to hear, and the painting too. I've sold what I've created myself, although mostly music. Nothing quite like it--a real good feeling.
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