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land clearing
ive been clearing land with a dozer, about 5 acres of mostly jack pine and locust trees. i plan to sow grass and make a pasture out of the area. there is still a lot of small roots and small limbs that i cant get up with the dozer, what kind of 3pt attachment would help with this job. (i have a 1920 newolland 4x4 33 hp) thanks
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land clearing
Kevin, of course the "small limbs" would be mostly on top of the ground, I assume, but don't know whether you are talking about loose roots on top, or those still just below the surface. The only thing I have to use for something like that is the box blade, and I can lower the scarifiers (or ripper blades) if necessary. However, I've seen a lot of messages about the landscape rakes, and I've looked at them. That looks to me like the best implement to use; I just don't have one (yet).
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land clearing
I believe a landscape rake would do a fine job for what you described. I own one and it paid for itself the first time I used it, its a wonderful tool that works for many things. I agree with Bird on the box blade, if you have some roots or large rocks that need ripped loose you will need the strengh of a box scraper.
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land clearing
ive used a box scrap with the teeth down , to break up the ground some also, and to remove some of small roots, works ok,but i thought their might be something better. thanks for the replys
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land clearing
I would rake it first to get most of the big stuff off the ground. If you're worried about re-growth of the "stuff" after you plant the grass, I'd plow the whole thing, run over it with a disk harrow a couple of times, rake it, and then plant. The plowing and disking will disrupt any roots that may have survived your dozer and uncompact the soil to help start your grass. Disks are good for mixing in fertilizers too, and leave a reasonable smooth finish for a lawn. Oh yeah it's a pasture. I've even seen roundup used to make sure EVERYTHING old gets killed before the grass gets put down.
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land clearing
I think you will find that a great deal of small roots will be still quite difficult to pull out, certainly a rake will not budge them, and a box-blade with scarifiers will merely 'comb' them into laying in the same direction, but not pull them out. Best bet would be to roto-till the heck out of the place, with pto running at 1000 rpm, after a few passes at 540rpm if possible. This will cut as many of them off a few inches below the surface as possible. Then grade with the box-blade, and rake out the debris. Best of luck.
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land clearing
Murf, you mentioned pto 1000 rpm. Isn't that dangerous when the implement says to run it at 540rpm? I often thought of increasing the pto speed on my mower but was afraid to. What bad things can happen if I go faster than 540 rpm on the different implements that are most commonly used?
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land clearing
Sandy, the principle problem with running something faster than 540 rpm is the sudden load on the drive-line if you were to hit something, you will note however that I said to do this AFTER a pass or two AT 540 rpm, this will have cleared the way first. If the equipment is in good shape and a quality item you should have no problems, we have been doing this for many years with various implements, the only 'casulties' have been a result of debris, etc. flying or snapping something. Check the manufacturers literature, in a lot of cases the equipment is designed to run at either 540 or 1000 rpm, as is the case with my roto-tillers, however the manufacturer recomends removing 1/2 the tines for 1000 rpm operation, to equal the load of all the tines at 540 rpm? Most important is BE CAREFUL, as with anything else. Best of luck.
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land clearing
That's interesting, Murf. When I had a tractor with the 2-speed PTO, I thought several times about trying the tiller on the 1000 RPM to churn the dirt more thoroughly, but I just never had enough nerve to try it.
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land clearing
I used a tool that we call a spring-tooth harrow to break up an old orchard and garden. My tractor wouldn't pull wide one, so I made one up on a 3pt tool bar that is about 4 teeth wide by 3 teeth long. The teeth are staggered. Last time I was a JD I saw that they sell the parts and also make them up for people. It is a standard farmer's implement, but cheaper than most because you assemble it yourself out of parts from the dealer. A gauge wheel helps too, because the teeth - which are shoes mounted on the end of heavy springs - do tend to dive. Use it with the gauge wheel to set depth and with the 3pt in full down position. The teeth vibrate back and forth cutting and breaking things, and it takes several times to get down to full depth....about 18" for mine. You will need ag tires to pull it at depth. If you have turfs; use tire chains. I would say that it is a lot like a non-rotating tiller. It won't break up the clumps and roots as good as a tiller will do, but it digs deeper.
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