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Woven wire field fence construction
Roger, while your explanation is a great one, it is an almost exclusively 'Western' one also. In the Central, Eastern and here in Canada, the 'normal' wire fence is something called "Page Wire" fencing after the name of the manufacturer. It is slightly different from your style in that the openings are rectangular and larger. The horizontal wires are set about 6" apart, the verticals about 9" apart. The horizontal wires are crimped into an undulating form so that they form a crude type of spring in order to maintain tension. The big advantage of this type of fence is that with larger opening it is lighter and less expensive (less material required to make it). The bonus is that with larger openings, animals can disentagle themselves very easily, and being lighter it collapses under their weight should they manage to mount it. We lay it out by hanging on a spindle from the front bucket of a TLB and reversing, then tension it using the hoe as a puller. Works great. Best of luck.
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Woven wire field fence construction
Thanks for the replies.
Out here in Oregon, I have seldom seen the type of fencing with the "V" design as described by Roger. Much of the older fencing has uniform openings of about 4"x6" while most of the newer stuff has the decreasing sized openings toward the bottom as mentioned by Murf, although I don't remember seeing any with a 9" opening. The Ag stores and the big box stores around here generally sell a general utility type fencing such as the "Ranch Hand" shown on the web page:
http://www.daviswire.com/products/ag/info_wovenfield.html
and a more expensive type labeled as "no climb" which has smaller openings that is supposed to prevent livestock from being able to catch their hooves in it. I have only seen this in 100' rolls - which is generally priced about 10% to 20% more than the standard fencing in 330' rolls.
There is a chart which gives the weights of rolls of 330' at
http://www.oklahomasteel.com/fieldfence.htm - or about 200 lbs for a 330' roll of 47" fencing using 11 gauge wire.
Just curious, has anyone used the heavy gauge 16' long welded wire panels? Aesthetically they don't do that much for me but it looks like they would do a better job of resisting livestock that like to lean against fences (of course, that is what the electric fence wire is supposed to do.)
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Woven wire field fence construction
The type with 4" x 6" rectangular spacing is what we called "American Wire" fencing 30 years ago in the NY Champlain Valley. Like "Page Wire" it was named after the manufacturer. We would sandwich the fencing between two 2x6s bolted together with a short chain loop running top to bottom, and then draw on the chain loop with a tractor or a come-along to stretch the fence during installation.
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Woven wire field fence construction
How do you join two rolls of wire? Just twist them together? And what is the best way to end the fence at a corner post? I'm having problems keeping the fence tight.
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Woven wire field fence construction
I am not an expert on this but when I joined my 100' rolls I just twisted the wire together. I pounded my end posts in 2' so that was good enough to keep the fence tight for me. If I wanted it tighter I would either concrete in the end posts or put a 45 degree anchor wire beyond each end post with a tent stake.
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Woven wire field fence construction
Terrip,
To join the two rolls of wire, you should do it at a fence post.
Double the fencing wire over, making about a three inch overlap, then wire that piece of fence to the post. Do the same thing with the other piece of fencing wire. Use separate wires to tie that end to the same post.
When you stretch your fence tight, you'll have to anchor your tractor to the post you made the joint at. On the other end of the fence, you use a fence stretcher, or a come-along hand winch to pull the fence tight. We used a come-along winch attached to the receiver hitch on the pickup.
At the corners, you'll need to beef up your posts. Most people use three Railroad ties, three utility poles, or three steel pipes.
Sink these posts into the ground about 3 feet from each other, with the center post forming the corner -- or in other words, place your posts so that they are arranged in the shape of "l", with the middle of the three posts placed at the corner.
Attach heavy support wires, or galvanized cable, from the top of two end posts, to the bottom of the center post.
Your corner post will never move an inch, and it will last nearly a lifetime.
You'll have to stretch your wire along the outside of these corner posts. Once tight, simply staple the wire to the corner posts. If you double the fencing wire over at this point, it will provide a much stronger and longer lasting hold.
If you decide to use steel posts at the corners, you might want to weld several hooks on the posts for which to attach your fence. After stretching the fence tight, simply place it over the hooks you welded to the post, and then let the tension off of your stretcher.
We used 3/8" steel rods, about 4 inches long, bent into the shape of an "l" for these hooks. Use about a dozen hooks on each post when using chicken wire, or woven wire. For barbed wire, one hook for each wire is all that's needed.
Joel
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Woven wire field fence construction
As Joel says, the best way to tighten woven wire is with a hand operated come along. You can chain it to a split cedar post preferably one that is set in tandem with another about 6 feet apart fastened together with another cedar horizontal cross piece at the top and a double wired cross piece that goes from the top of the post closest to the wire hooked diagonally down to the bottom of the second post. After you have looped smooth wire in a long circle you can then put a stout stick in the middle and twist it several times to really tighten it and bring the 2 posts together nicely.
The best way to attach the come along is to sandwich the wire between two 2X4's that are bolted together 3-4 places. Then place a small chain around the 2X4's in the middle and hook the comealong to it and back to the post. Once tightened, just staple the wire to both posts and loosen the comealong.
Hope that makes sense.
Brian
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Woven wire field fence construction
Thanks Brian!
Yes, it helps a great to first fasten a post to your fence BEFORE attempting to stretch it.
Things don't work so well when attempting to stretch a woven wire fence, when pulling on the wire itself. It is best to attach a post, or a couple of 2x4s to the fence before attempting to stretch it.
By doing this, the stretcher is able to put a great deal of tension on the fence, without breaking the woven wire where the stretcher is attached.
You'll be applying equal pressure to the entire width of the fencing, rather than attempting to stretch it at a single point in the woven wire.
Thanks again Brian.
Here's one of those cases in which a picture is worth far more than a 1000 words. A picture would make things so much easier for everyone.
Joel
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Woven wire field fence construction
I raise sheep and have a few guard llamas. But I wanted to build a boundary fence that would be suitable for all livestock (except fowl). So I constructed a combination fence; HT barbed, HT woven, HT smooth - mounted on 8'x6" treated SYP posts, 25' on center. One strand of coated barbed goes right at ground level to prevent predators from digging under. One inch above that goes 8/32/9 woven wire. As previously mentioned, the 9" vertical stays prevent death by hanging. So far we're at ~33" of height. Above the woven wire go three strands of smooth at the 39", 45", and 51" levels. I use the appropriate wire stretchers and my tractor to stretch the barbed and woven to the posts with Class III staples. The smooth is mounted with electrical insulators. I don't use springs, Jake's tighteners are used to fine tune the HT tension. The insulator mounts permit electrification of the smooth if/when required.
I strongly recommend horizontal braces. Goats can learn to walk up diagonal braces. When that happens, no amount of fence can keep them in. Obviously, if you mount your wire inside the braces, it doesn't matter. I also strongly recommend an inside scare wire mounted at about the 8" level. Once insulated and electrified, it will keep the goats from poking their heads through the woven wire. If you mount the woven wire inside the posts, you'll need arm-type extender insulators. When properly installed, their shins will hit the electric wire before their heads make it through the woven wire. They'll quickly learn that - even if the grass is greener on the other side - they'd best leave it alone.
Oh, crimp splices will save a lot of wear and tear on your fingers when it comes to joining wires and sections. Enables you to pull tighter, and makes for a neater looking fenceline when you're done.
//greg//
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Woven wire field fence construction
Dear friends,
I finally found a site that shows some decent pictures of how to construct the corner posts.
See the link below.
Joel
Link:
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