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 05-16-2000, 09:25 Post: 16333
Murf



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 Poison Ivy

As a landscaper/contractor who specializes in golf courses, we have tried everything short of a thermo-nuclear device, probably tough on the bent grass. The best, cheapest, sure-fire, non-chemical solution we have found for this is that you can't beat a simple solution......BOILING WATER. A large pot, a propane burner, and a little patience, you will have a lot of dead plants in 2 days. We use a huge stock-pot and some old glass measuring cups, pour a cup or two of (full rolling boil) boiling water on each stem, right where it comes out of the ground, this kills the roots of the plant, in 2 days the plant has withered and died and comes out of the ground easily. This method also makes the chances of a nasty rash a lot less too. Best of luck.






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 05-17-2000, 09:22 Post: 16344
Paul Elkins



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 Poison Ivy

Whyyyy, whyyyy!!!!!! in the words of Nancy Kerrigan, why does poison ivy and oak and sumak exist. These must be plants from hell. I received the poison ivy curse last year while clearing for a new house. I must be highly alergic to. You must shower with soap after coming into contact with "satan" I wouldn't wish this on but a few people(maybe Bill Clinton and his private parts) and Hitler.






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 05-17-2000, 15:01 Post: 16356
MichaelSnyder

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 Poison Ivy

Blame Eve, She ate the fruit, then............






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 05-17-2000, 15:15 Post: 16357
Andy



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 Poison Ivy

I thought Monica ate the fruit............






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 05-17-2000, 22:12 Post: 16367
dave g



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 Poison Ivy

while not poison ivy (i think) i have these nasty vines in florida. these things choke out the trees. some are 6" at the base, not kiddin. i cut most of them 2 feet from ground, and the oaks exploded with growth. now the ground is covered in the vines (cut last season). would these remidies work, and any ideas on how to get dead vines out of trees besides yanking?






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 05-18-2000, 12:31 Post: 16385
Darren



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 Poison Ivy

Take a look at Ortho's "Brush-B-Gon". I've used it for years on poison ivy and it kills the entire plant. The spray can gives you enough range that you can get the hard to reach plants as well including the ones that have grown up trees. . A can costs a couple of bucks.

The stuff foams up where it hits so it's easy to target only the poison ivy and not kill other plants. I check out the new ivy locations as I work around the place each spring and take an hour or two later to spray them all. End of ivy.

Keep in mind the birds will distribute seeds again next year so chances are you'll still see more the next spring.






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 05-19-2000, 10:00 Post: 16419
Eddie Watkins



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 Poison Ivy

Murf's suggestion of hot water works great. A couple of years ago I was emptying my water heater and I ran a hose out on the lawn. It killed everything and it was immediate. I didn't have to wait a week or two and the water was only about 130 degrees. I don't know how well it works when you are trying to kill something but it sure works when you're not! I haven't made that mistake again.






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 05-19-2000, 12:38 Post: 16422
Frank R Taylor



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 Poison Ivy

i gave up trying to pull that stuff years ago after I found out how allergic to it I was and it never did any real good anyway because I never could get all the roots out. I spray Brush-Be-Gone, 2,4,D and Roundup although I've never been a big fan of Roundup. I've seen healthy weeds outgrow the killing effects of Roundup because it works so slowly. All that spray gets to be expensive over the course of a year so I'll have to try Murf's hot water treatment. They also make a "Weed Wand" with a hollow handle that you fill with chemical and it has an absorbant tip that you use to wipe the weeds with the killer. It might be OK if you don't want to spray and it's faster than painting the chemical on. Good luck.






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 05-23-2000, 15:59 Post: 16554
CaseyR



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 Poison Ivy

You have a 15-20 minute grace period to wash off the oil from poison oak. Soap and water should work, but alcohol
might be a little more thorough. The problem with alcohol is that it also removes the oil on the skin which gives a slight
bit of protection to the poison oak and until the oil is replenished you will be slightly more susceptible to getting a rash if you brush against any clothing or pets that have been in the poison oak

From a Lane County, Oregon, web site:

"An ounce of prevention: Smooth on a barrier cream, such as IvyArmor or IvyBlock, which contain chemicals to trap or
block urushiol, preventing it from penetrating the skin. Wear long pants, long sleeves and boots during tromps in the woods.
Launder clothes immediately upon return. Don gloves for yardwork. Wipe garden tools with rubbing alcohol.

Spring is a great time to kill new starts, says Pollyanna Lind of the Eugene-based Northwest Coalition for Alternatives to
Pesticides. Wear protective clothing. Then grub starts out when the soil is soft, getting as much root as possible. Rake up the
plants, bag in plastic and dispose. Do not compost; they'll grow there.

Then keep starts at bay by covering the area with a piece of carpeting and mulch. You need to plant something in its place or
poison oak will re-establish itself. This process may need repeating for a few years.

Wait until leaves have dropped in the fall or winter to deal with larger, more robust poison oak.

Both the coalition and OSU Extension Service suggest fencing the affected area and letting a goat graze there for several
years.

The Extension Service says two herbicides are effective against poison oak: triclotyr and glyphosate. Triclotyr can be
purchased under several trade names, including Crossbow. Use it on a day when the temperature is 70 degrees or cooler.
Glyphosate is also sold under multiple trade names, including Roundup. It is most effective in late summer or fall.

Tip: Roundup kills grass; Crossbow does not."







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 07-29-2004, 10:07 Post: 92211
vick12



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Location: Syracuse, NY
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 Poison Ivy

What concerns, if any, are there with spot spraying poison ivy with chemicals and the potential for chemical run off affecting a well?






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Lawn, Turf, and Grass Forum

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