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Ever use urea
The cat thing is true. One day I noticed our male cat had peed all over the house. Just littel dribbles here and there. My first thought was to feed him to my neighbor's dog, but instead I brought him down to the vet, who gave me some expensive medicine, and some even more expensive prescription cat food. I had been feeding him Imes (sp?), which I thought was the good stuff, but apparently it was only cloging him up. So end result is a happy healthy but very expensive cat, and monthly trips to the vet to buy this expensive food.
I still drink beer and pee on the trees....
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Ever use urea
You got away pretty cheap. Our Siamese required surgery, basically the feline version of a sex change operation. He had been around just long enough to be part of the household but he wasn't so old that we felt right about putting him down. When it was all said and done we got nearly 18 years out of the knothead, and got to watch him kick butt on a couple of neighborhood dogs along the way.
If memory serves one of the critical components is not just the protein but also the ash content. We found a brand of cat food with lower numbers at the feed store that was cheaper than the prescription diet. Check the labels for the numbers.
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sob1
Depending on conditions, I would say you should see some kind of growth in about two weeks. all the comments in the repies were true. But my expeirience has taught me a few things.
Urea will burn grass if applied too heavily. It will also volitolize if not incorporated into the soil, (rain, tiilage). Urea spread on top is a gamble. I have used urea on my lawn for several years, at low rates, and I always watch the weather. I spread as close to a rain as I can get, and I have had no trouble.
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Well boys... as luck would have it, right after I finished applying the urea, we had some great rainstorms, which dissolved the pellets. I had spoken to several different people with regard to urea. Ready??? the county extension guy who said to apply 100lbs/acre to the guy where i bought it who said apply 125/ acre, to the gal I'm gettin my steers from who said 50lbs/ acre, to the old farmer who I'm buyin my grain from who said 200lbs/acre.
So.... I wound up applying 1- 80lb bag/ acre or so.. Anyway's .. it looks very green! I'm just hoping that the $400 bucks I spent on pasture mix comes up. Some of it got into the soil for sure, but some was still on top. Expensive birdseed? or will it settle in also?
BTW, my soil sample came in at 6.4.
SOB
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Thats a good start, the ph is almost perfect, sounds good so far. the 80lbs is fine. one thing about fertilizer, if you need more you can put it on...if you have applied too much you cant get rid of it.
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Straight urea has a count of 46-0-0. This means that 46% of the material is nitrogen. In most cases you should not apply more than 1lbs. of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft.. This is especially true with straight urea. There are other drawbacks to using this product in grass. If you have any wetlands or waterways this product leachs very easily as it is very soluable. It also will not last very long. one other drawback is it will cause a great deal of topgrowth without much root developement. I think you would be better served if you were to use something else. I know that it is cheap but you pay for it in the long run.
The proper amount per acre if you are still going to use this is somewhere around 90#'s per acre. Hope this helps this late!!
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I agree, some 12-24-24 or 20-20-20 is a pretty strong mix for grass but would give you an all round better uniform growth of vegetation. Is use the 12-24-24 and put down about 500 lbs. per acre as far as grass, it is also very reasonably priced at the COOP. Last I bought was around $5.50 a 40 lb. bag. They will give a discount if you buy a ton or more. Lots of fun to spread with a push spreader if you don't have a big spreader. You also may want to test the soil to see if you need lime. Usually a ton to the acre. Don't forget to airate too!
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I was on the snow removal team at the local hospital and we used it to melt ice & snow in sensative areas where salt would kill everything. Come spring the grass grew like crazy. That was about all us city boys new about it.
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The problem with urea or any other high ammoniacal fertilizer is that NH4 is largely not used by plants. Only the NH3 is rapidly used and absorbed by the plants system. A bacterial conversion of the NH4 to NH3 is required. A rudimentary chmeical equation shows that it leaves a H atom free in the process, which bond to Carbon in the soil which every one knows forms acids. Acidic soil is not nice to root systems. They tend to destroy and maim other wise health-destined plants. Volitization occurs in these high ammonia fertilizers. Also N leaches readily from the soil because of its negative charge, which means much of the "HIGH" N content is lost and never recovered in the first rain storm. These fertilizers tend to quite working in cool temperatures as well due to the fact that the converting bacteria slow down around 60 degrees F. Examples of High NH4 fertilizers: Urea,DAP, Ammonia Nitrate.
Look for HIGH NH3 fertilizers. These fertilizers will not contribute to soil acidity. They also will work in cooler weather because the form of N is readily absorbed by the plant. Products they do not leach and usually have other valuable minerals attatched to nourish the plants. Examples: Calcium Nitrate, Sodium Nitrate (aka soda, bulldog soda). Especially in the use of calcium nitrate, it improves sturdiness of plants because calcium is used in cell wall construction. Plants will be sturdy and green. Ammoniacal fertilizers can lead plants weak and leggy although they will be green. Calcium nitrate typically is around 16% nitrogen, but is as effective as ammonia nitrate at growing green plants. Especially effective for calcium consuming plants such as collards, turnips, peppers, mustard, spinach, brocolli, tobacco, and yes, grass. Remember, much of the ammonia is leached any way before it can be converted to NH3. Although not as easy to be found, most feed and seed stores can order calcium nitrate and have within a week. Sodium nitrate is similar in greenability but not quite as desirable because plants typically consume only small amounts of sodium and leave left over salt in the soil. Works great on corn!
Grass typically consumes fertilizer in a 4-1-2 (N,P,K) ratio. This makes a 16-4-8 fertilizer great for grass for starter and spring green up. A 1-2-3 (5-10-15) ratio is best however for root growth in the late summer and early fall(pre frost). Other ratio fertilizers on grass are pretty much wasted and may promote rapid growth of undesirable weeds because other plants use different ratios of fertiliizers.
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Great post Mark! I definitely learned a thing or 3.
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