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Treated wood question
"If you're interested I could point you to people in your area who will either sell you enough rough cut lumber, or bring in a portable sawmill for you to have what you need cut from your own trees. "
Murf, This is almost an insult to someone who has a sawmill and can saw his own lumber.  !
I do appreciate the offer though. I also know others who have cut logs for me in the past.
I'm thinking I will pour some concrete pads down under the frost line with treated up from there and backfill with pea gravel or sand.
Dave
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Treated wood question
"I am assuming that you are not going with beams, floor joists and plywood subflooring. If you are, then I have a great design that uses no PT lumber. Let me know and I will share it."
For a while I'll just use the gravel surface for a floor. I don't need the shop for a few years so will just use the building for storage till then. It would make sense to pour the concrete floor right away before it fills up with "stuff" that you have to remove so that you can pour later.
Dave
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Treated wood question
I think everything depends on the site, that is the only variable. Wet ,dry,sunny,shaded,elevated,low? you get it.
Now take control of the variable to eliminate trouble down the road. The way to do that is to make the site higher if needed to drain storm water,get down below any frost,IMO the most effective way is a 4-6 foot frost wall and a perimeter drainage of stone and pipe and fabric.
Now the rest of the methods are shortcuts to avoid this expense.They may or may not work in your area. Believe me
I have tried them all with varying success,depending on the site.Seems like, if it works for one guy it is the greatest thing since sliced bread. The next guys site isn't quite drained the same and one year the frost shoves one of his posts through the roof. Now the repair costs more than the frost wall. Pour a wall four feet below grade and at least
18" above grade with anchor bolts every 3-4 ' and build yourself some thing that will appreciate in value and not need maintenece for a long time. The concensus around here is the new PT will last about half as long as the old formula.Notice this chart stops at 14 yrs. the new formular drops like a rock in the 15th yr. Not sure if it is the same product you are dealing with? But I think it was a fed EPA rule?
Like Murf said some dry rough sawn is as good as anything
as long as it is uniform.
mix some used motor oil 50/50 with k-1, run it through a cheese cloth and treat the lumber in contact with the cement
and within 2' of the ground and forget the PT.
Murf, I think they came up with it when outside decks
came on the scene. I will keep my concrete patio any day.
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Treated wood question
Every now and then I hear a statement that just sticks with me. I like it and I will use it.
GRINDER just had a statement that was awesome. He said
"and build yourself some thing that will appreciate in value and not need maintenece for a long time."
(This was 4 years ago)
IE: A buddy down the road from me had a barn built on frost walls. We had a storm come thru and it took the barn with it! His isnurance company paid him to rebuild it. I can tell you that his frost walls that were 3' above ground was the best thing he had ever done when he originally built it. The re-build was so simple you would not believe. The best part is that his place was insured He was able to rebuild it with 12' side walls and it cost him nothing. AND he was paid to rebuild it.
Grinders idea and statement is very good and so true
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02-19-2005, 18:55 
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