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heating pole barn
I am building a morton pole barn: 36'W x 56'L x 12'H, and may insulate in the future. Where is the best place to buy a LP radiant tube heater, about 30'-40' long? Is $750 a respectable price? How have others insulated the walls? I thought about Bat insulation, or putting up netting and blowing fiberglass in the wall cavity. (Deep walls would take a lot of insulation.$$$$) I can finish the ceiling myself with steel panels, vapor barrier, and blown-in fiberglass.
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heating pole barn
Chris: Unless you have already contracted with the Morton folks, go price a conventional frame building on a stem wall. Use OSB for the sheathing on the sidewalls and conventional vinyl siding and a common shingle roof. I just did this and you will be surprised at how little diference there is in the cost between the two. Insulating between 2X6 studs is so much easier than insulating a pole shed with steel siding. I used conventional barn steel installed horizontaly across the studs for an inside liner, easy as pie. Frank.
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heating pole barn
Franks's right. I have all the heavy equipment to build a standard pole barn but wouldn't even consider it unless I used conventional stud walls. You can literally build the walls and sheath them on the ground and just tip them up. And since you will be building on a raised concrete floor, wood rot of poles in the ground are not an issue. Aorund here (Detroit area) treated poles will only last about 25-30 years.
And don't even consider using metal on the ceiling if you paln on heating it. The moisture from your body combined with your breath and the moisture in the air coming from the air and the floor will cause water droplets to form on the steel.
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heating pole barn
Perhaps a little better description of my building starting from the outside toward the inside is as follows. First the vinyl siding, plastic house wrap,1/2 in. OSB, the 2X6 studs with paper back fiberglass in between, 1 1/2 in. foam board, visqueen, then the steel liner. My celing is paperback insulation between the rafters. the roof is a conventional ahingle with rafters centered on 24 in. I did'nt price the diference between barn steel lining and sheetrock, but shetrrock likely would cost less. I used steel for two reasons, first, part of my shop is used as a welding and machine shop, so fire is always a concern. Second the insurance company does not require a steel liner for shops but highly recommends it. The cost difference between the pole shed and a conventional stud wall building which included the cost of the cement stem wall was actually just a tick less than a pole shed, both turn key, both bids from the same firm. This is before any insulation or liner costs on either building. Hope this helps. Frank.
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heating pole barn
Chris- to answer you question... if I was doing this myself, the first place I would look would be Northern tool. I am looking at doing something similar in the future so I have been pricing a propane unit and then somekind of wood burner to get rid of all my scrap. If they don't have exactly what you are looking for, they will probably have something close.
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heating pole barn
Chris: I forgot to answer your question about the radiant heaters. I've used electric radiants in the past, and they work fine, but have never used the gas fueled radiants. The new shop I'm speaking of now has a conventional LP forced air furnace with central air conditioning, it works well too. Frank.
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heating pole barn
best way to heat is in floor heating. Yes, it is more expensive initially, but the comfort levels will beat anything out there. Make sure to use lots of insulation- much cheaper than gas etc.
good luck with your project
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heating pole barn
There's little doubt that in-floor heating would be the most comfortable way to go, but I don't think it's well suited for a shop or barn unless you spend an awful lot of time in the building. It's expensive to keep a barn heated 24/7 so you'd want to set back the temperature when you're not in there. With in-floor heating it takes forever to heat up or cool down so it wouldn't be like you could walk in the barn, turn up the t-stat and be comfortable in 15 minutes.
A combination sort of heat would probably be an excellent compromise. Use in-floor to keep the building heated to 50 degrees or so and use another to bring it up to temperature quickly. But buying two heating separate heating systems is expensive. If budget is no object that would probably be the best combination of economy and comfort.
If budget is an obstacle then money may best be spent on a heating system that would automatically keep the temperature above dewpoint during unoccupied periods and respond quickly when you walk into the barn to spend time working.
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heating pole barn
In areas like Iowa where it sometimes gets cold, it's also a necessity to leave in floor heating going for the whole winter, if only at a low setting.
The heating/cooling of the floor caused by intermittent use of it would cause the frost to play real havoc with the slab and footings.
Best of luck.
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heating pole barn
we keep our 30x48'shed at lowest setting at 50 degrees near Fond du Lac, WI. In 24 hrs we can have it to 65. If the shed is well insulated with an R-19 door, insulated windows and R-50 in ceiling, with an efficient gas heater and pumps, I think it is still cheaper than to heat with forced air.
You couldn't wrestle that heating system from me. Clean, no drafts, no heat lost when you open door- heat stays in slab.
Solar gain from south facing windows also help raise heat in the winter.
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