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Gorillas in the Glue
FYI
I had looked at the Gorilla Glue a number of times but there is just sparse information as to the makeup on the label and $$$. I had a gallon bottle of regular wood glue so why change.
Last spring a bought a small bottle and repaired my leather cell phone case. I had gone through a number of belt clips for the cell phone and finally spent the extra dollars on the leather one. It lasted longer but blew out the seams after about 6 months. The glue is still holding after 5 months so the Gorilla glue is paid for.
The last few days I started to work with it on wood. I had a bunch of scrap short 2x2 and decided to make them into a saddle trees to hang on the wall. I wet the surfaces of the wood and placed a small spot of glue on the area. One screw to hold it till the glue cures. After it cures it is strong enough to hold my weight.
I think the glue is a urethane prepolymer like the expanding foams in a can. It has less diamines in it to react with the water, but foams a little. It looks like it needs a hydrophillic (water loving) surface to bond.
I had some exanding urethane foams from Windlock with similar adhesion it seemed like it could glue anything. I certainly had a hard time removing it from the fingers without the skin.
You need less than you would with the waterbased adhesive. This expands the waterbase shrinks. The smallest bottle they sell is about the same as the 250 mL (8 ounce) bottle of Elmers.
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Gorillas in the Glue
I build a basement 2000 sq.ft and barn 2400 sq.ft. from ICF's. I wish I had done the whole house. What would you like to know?
As stated. Caution with Gorilla glue you need less than you think and once on your hands help. I never did a lot with the glue but with the foam I lost a lot of skin as it builds adhesion much quicker.
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Gorillas in the Glue
One of the tricks with the ICF's is the use of the foam guns. It is a bit like spraying gorilla glue.
I used the ARXX brand blocks. They are engineered well and probably the best brand on the market. A group of ex-army engineers design it. Likely the same crew that designed the 16" square PE locking dock blocks for pontoon bridges and temporary docks. I have seen them used on everything from dingies to cruise ships now.
I took a course and built the first structure. The pictures are on my site. We set up the walls in 3 days and then poured in 1/2 a day. I had to have the instructor come and examine the first forms before we poured and get my certification. The system has its own scaffolds with jacks in the braces. It is quite easy to straighen the wall after the pour.
I have built both ways and I would say the ICF is far simpler. I helped build a pole barn one year with the neighbour and some Menonnites and we were no were near done in 10 days. My larger barn which would be equivalent to lock up in a house with insulation was completed in about 10 working days. We built with 3-4 people in 3 days and no one had worked on ICF's before. An experienced crew could have completed it in 1.5 days.
I have rock on part of the house and stucco on the barn. You can apply any surface treatment you want with the ARXX as the plastic fir strips are every 8 inches. The stone mason loved it.
The only thing that is more difficult is mounting the electical boxes. I used metal boxes and drilled holes in the wall and inserted plastic plugs.
You also need to plan ahead for duct work and plumbing. It is very easy to insert during the block build before the pour but difficult later. I spent a day cutting one hole for the airconditioning ducts.
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