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 07-22-2002, 17:46 Post: 40582
Peters

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 Cedar Siding

What type of cedar? White cedar? Yellow cedar? Western red cedar? Eastern red cedar?






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 07-24-2002, 09:58 Post: 40636
Peters

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 Cedar Siding

Western red cedar is less dense and easier to nail. Normally this is what you find in the lumber yard. You will not get the eastern unless you buy from a local mill.
You can use galvanized if you blind nail under the over lap on the top of the boards and not on the bottom.
We get occasional high wind storms here so I nail top and bottom. You can use finish nails but need to take care you do not set the nail head too deep. I have a air finish nailer and use it with 2 " nail. You can buy stainless nails but they are about 2x the price.
If the boards are thinner they have a V groove cut in them. The V groove is for stress relief and need to go against the wall. My house in KY had siding installed wrong and needed to be redone after 13 years.
There are pest that like the cedar, carpenter ants, not common in PA, carpenter bees, I have no idea about PA, and wood peckers. The wood peckers will use the siding to drill holes and tap acorns into it.
You need to consider what you are going to do on the corners. Mitre to the corners or use corner boards.
Peters






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 07-24-2002, 12:53 Post: 40645
Peters

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 Cedar Siding

I use a Senco SFN30 for most of this. It is light and can shoot to a 2 " nail. The 2 " stainless are about 60$ a box of 4000. The 2" galvanized are 35$ a box.
It is a good all round gun. I have used it for tough and groove ceilings and flooring besides the siding. It is the only nail gun that I own.
I am shooting tops and bottoms on 16" centers at the moment so that there are 4 nails holding the top and the bottom of each board, but only one visible. I have only about 10 sq ft left to complete and a little trim, but have gone through more than a box of nails.
I know I would not have wanted to complete this without the nail gun.






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 07-26-2002, 20:25 Post: 40709
Peters

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 Cedar Siding

Doug;
It took me four weeks, for approximately 3000 st ft.
There are some conditions here though
1) on 3 sides I had to go to 4 scaffolds (20 ft) to reach the peak. The other side only to 3.
2)I used the cemsnt board that looks like cedar, rather than cedar. It is harder to cut and trim.
3) I was also doing the soffet, facia, metal rake and corners and some trim.
4) The eaves exend out to 4 ft from 15 inches on 3 roof lines. Some of the bird boxes took 1/2 day to frame due to the wacky angles and having to climb 3 scaffolds to trim and return. This also extended the time required to do the soffets as they require 2 cuts for each piece.
Glad its done!!!
Peters






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 07-28-2002, 08:46 Post: 40761
Peters

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 Cedar Siding

Olympic also make a stain for cedar. Olympic was owned by Weldwood in WA, but I don't know now.






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 02-20-2003, 18:42 Post: 49651
Peters

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 Cedar Siding

Tom;
I am not sure the stain is sinking into the knots. Normally the oils in the knots seep through the coating and then darken on the surface. It reacts with the Nitrous Oxide in the air. This will be duller than the rest of the wood.
Too much into right?
The knot will not absorb as much stain as the rest of the cedar.
Peters






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