| Click to Post a New Message!
Page [ 1 ] |
|
|
basement floor
I had a problem with this before. I will tell you what I did, but I never did completely solve the problem.
Initially there was carpet on the floor when I moved into the house. It started to bulge and had a crunching sound when you walked over some specific areas. The carpet smelled a bit musty, so I took it out. The crunchy areas were sulfate crystals that had worked through the concrete and built up because they were trapped under the carpet. Those areas of the concrete were moist. The sulfates had also attacked the concrete surface and made it rough and pitted. The sulfates show up as a white deposit and get swept away, but if they are confined they can grow to over a half inch thick. As they grow, they will lift flooring, floor covering, and other coverings.
I chipped out the bad concrete and covered it with a "Concrete Waterproofing" paint. The water and sulfates continued to come and lifted the paint off the floor.
In another area, I wanted to remove a planter that was under a skylight window in the same floor. In that area, I used treated lumber and used a power nailer to spike it to the concrete. I put a layer of plastic in the bottom of the planter and covered it with sand to keep it down and then made another plastic cover just below the lumber. It was sealed to the concrete with caulking compound. The planter was covered with exterior plywood used as flooring.
About the same time as I was doing the planter removal, I also decided that drainage might help. So, I put in a drain pipe to carry away any water that might stand near the house. After a few months the concrete slab was noticably drier. We leveled out the floor with a thin concrete material and then placed carpet over the floor.
I sold the house and moved a few years later. The sulfate crystals did not come back. The flooring over the planter held up. There were still come "crunchy" areas, but that was likely degraded concrete from the previous moisture. The musty smell was gone.
So what did I learn. Address any water issues that might be causing moisture problems before you do anything else. I would also say that if you are going to lay any wood on the concrete that it should be treated for exterior use since moisture will be in contact with it. And finally, I would say that you should use a plastic vapor barrier under any carpet or flooring that you might want to put down. As always, you need to check to see if any specific building codes apply in your area.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
basement floor
A french drain is the type of system that I used with perforated drain pipe and a gravel field around the pipe. This was placed on the uphill side of my house and diverted water away from the house on both sides. The low side did not need a drain as the slope would lead water away from the foundation anyway.
I agree with what you describe about installing the basement floor, but most of us get what we get. I bought a used house and was never there during the construction or planning. Codes required a vapor barrier under the slab, but if it had been put in correctly, then I should not have had moisture/sulfate problems in the first place. The problem area was localized in my case to two small sites. I suspect that there was a hole in the barrier at each location. That is hard to fix, and my experience with any paint-on solution was not good.
I am sure that the drainage around the foundation was the problem in my particular case. I had three inches of standing water on the uphill side of the house during a severe rain. It was almost coming over the door thresholds. This was not a problem when the house was constructed, but landscaping routed and held water next to the house and that was a big mistake leading to all of the other problems.
It is possible that my former problem is more severe than the original question posed in this thread. Chris, you should probably have a flooring contractor come by and look at your floor. If you have wetness, you will have to do some work. If it is just humid in the basement, paint-on systems may work fine. If you were planning a DIY project, then perhaps the place supplying the flooring can give you some advice. I am not sure what you were planning, but the modular system mentioned by Peters may be a very good solution for you. The closed cell PE foam used with the flooring systems should do a good job of blocking water vapor. If moisture is common in your area, then the suppliers probably know what works around there. If your neighbors have dry basements, then you may need to concentrate on drainage first.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
basement floor
So many problems and solutions. I remember the condensation issue in the basement of the house where I grew up in the Central US. It seemed like the dewpoint sometimes got higher than your skin temperature and it was sometimes miserable. Certainly that humidity would condense on colder basement walls, and we used dehumidifiers to handle that moisture.
I guess that one problem with this topic is that there are so many causes, effects, and cures that are used in different specific areas that it is hard to apply any of them universally. Tom's point about sloping vs flat land highlights that. Except for a couple of years that I spent in northern Illinois, I have always lived on ground with some slope. French drains work fine if you have a slope to route the water away from your structure. I do remember that the crawl space under my Illinois house always had some damp muddy areas. I did not really think about this before, because the topic was about basement walls. But, I know that the solutions on that house would be different than those I would use with houses on sloping ground.
I agree with comments about needing waterproofing on the outside of the walls. I have been very disappointed with the paint on products and I will never use them again, at least on the inside of a concrete wall. There are rubber based products that can be applied to the outsides of walls, but most homeowners will not go to the trouble of digging up the dirt around their houses to apply them to an existing house. I probably would not do that either, unless I had a problem with water running through a crack or porous place in the concrete.
Lots of good discussion...
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
|
|
basement floor
Cutter, we were posting our comments at about the same time and I read yours only after I finished.
I never like to see poor workmanship, but it regularly happens. Think about how much cheaper it would have been if they had just done the work that you did in the beginning.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Page [ 1 ] | Thread 53653 Filter by Poster: 4 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 3 | 2 |
|
()
Picture of the Day candoarms
Unanswered Questions
Active Subjects
Hot Topics
Featured Suppliers
|