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Basement Block
Wecommonly use a product here called "Mira-Drain" but there are several similar products out there. Basically it is a sheet of plastic formed in such a way as to be covered with little flat-top bumps about 3/4" high across which a sheet of Geo-textile fabric (allows water to pass but not sediment) is fastened. It is installed against the bare wall, plastic side to the wall, starting at or just above the ground level and terminating into the footing drain. The result is a continous vertical drain system around the entire perimeter of the foundation, any water running into the wall hits the product and takes the path of least resistance, straight down into the drain and away from the building. Since it is independant of the wall itself any cracks that develop in the wall itself will not compomise the integrity of the system, in such case damp-proofing spray would no longer be water tight. Best of luck.
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Basement Block
Actually no Tom, the insulation goes BETWEEN the water protection and the wall, otherwise it would create a barrier, hindering the water from getting to the drainage.
In a case such as you describe were the water-table is high the only solution to the problem is to raise the building above the water level. In the case of my own home the water table is barely 5' below existing grade, so I raised the footings to 1' above that, luckily the whole place is an Alluvial sand deposit (created by a lake, "Algonquin", formed during the melting of the glaciers that covered Canada long ago) and has fanatastic load-bearing qaulities, VERY stable stuff. It took a lot of sand fill to raise the area around the house, resulting in a pretty nice pond I might add.
They have a new product out for such situations, but where you don't want to move a mountain of fill. It is basically a large upside-down funnel, sized to accomodate various sizes of Sono-tubes, thus increasing the load-bearing footprint of such to 3 times it's original size. Most home centers, building or lumber yards can at least order them, even if they don't stock them. Of course the best is still the butts of old creosoted utility poles or (new) surplus railway ties, talk about staying power....
Best of luck.
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Basement Block
Tom, my Northern neighbour, step away from the forest, you're losing sight of the trees...or have you been doing Quality Control work again,  .
Of course we can't use an Alaska slab, we're not in Alaska, we're down South here, where frost is a seasonal problem, not a PERMANENT fixture. The freeze thaw cycle would wreck anything bridging slab to ground, ie. electrical, water, and septic connections, not a good situation for a permanent residence. As for permanent residences on piers, the same problem occurs, how do you get freeze sensitive pipes and such from the ground up to the house and back?
A resort operator at a golf course/resort I did some work on a couple of years back had a unique concept for re-programming the learned behaviour of problem bears. He had a CO2 paint-ball competiton gun, the kind that fires gelled 'paint' (actually a vegetable dyed gelatin mixture) capsules, using syringes he carefully topped the capsules up with a blend of Cayenne Pepper and Capsasian (?, the active ingredient in the Pepper spray the police use). When fired towards the bears they thought they were getting a handout, however it seems the bears din't find his projectile hors-d'oeuvres very appetizing at all, in fact he claimed to have a very low rate of repeat diners.
Best of luck.
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We could blend the subjects for you.......
I took my GMC 'Safari' to my friends place to look at his foundation, it was a 'bear' block wall with so many cracks it looked like a 'Zebra'. But it was too 'cold' down there in the basement to stay long, so we went outside to look at it. While we had a couple 'really cold home-made beers, almost icy in fact', we pondered the situation. I told him he should tear it down and sart again, and he replied "you're 'lion' to me!"......
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08-26-2002, 13:32 
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