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 09-25-2007, 19:32 Post: 146075
candoarms



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 need a 110V winch

Frank,

Check out the CM Lodestar chain hoist.

It's a 110vac electric chain hoist, capable of lifting 6000lbs, up to 20 feet high.

Here's a link.

Joel






Link:   CM Loadestar Chain Hoists 

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 09-25-2007, 19:46 Post: 146076
candoarms



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Frank,

The link I posted is rather confusing. Sorry about that.

I'm looking at the CM Lodestar model #s CMCT9501, CMCT9502, and CMCT9503

These hoists will lift 6000 pounds at a rate of 11 feet per minute with the 2 horse electric motor.......or 5.5 feet per minute with the 1 horse electric motor. (110vac)

If you would rather go with a 2-ton hoist, you can lift 4000 pounds at up to 16 feet per minute with the 2 horse electric motor......or 8 feet per minute with the 1 horse motor. (110vac)

Joel






Link:   CM Lodestar Chain Hoist Spec Sheet 

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 09-27-2007, 02:31 Post: 146132
candoarms



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 need a 110V winch

Frank,

Your idea isn't crazy in the least.

Floor space comes at a premium price. Any space you can utilize, without having to add on to the existing building, just makes good sense.

These elevators are common in industrial plants all across the nation. Overhead space goes almost entirely unused in most commercial buildings. What a waste.

You should have a safety brake on your elevator. These are usually designed to engage when the lift cable breaks. The safety brakes are held away from the elevator guides by the pressure on the cable. When that cable pressure disappears, the brakes instantly engage on the I-beam guide rails, or on some other support structure. The brakes are powered by huge coil springs that are kept under pressure by the lift cable assembly. When the tension on the lift cable goes away, the springs are allowed to extend out against the elevator guide frame.

In your case, these brakes would only engage when your elevator touches down on the concrete floor in your shop. There would never be any wear on the brake pads. The brakes would immediately disengage once the cable has tension on it, when lifting.

Whether you use this type of safety system, or something similar, I highly suggest that you rig up some device that will serve this purpose.

The following link should help you come up with a few ideas.

________________________

In 1852, Elisha Otis was working as a master mechanic at the Bedstead Manufacturing Company in Yonkers, New York. He was given the assignment to design a freight elevator to haul the company’s products. Otis was aware of the inherent problem of cable failure and sought a solution that would eliminate the hazard.

He realized that some sort of safety brake was required. The brake had to function automatically the instant the cable broke if it were to save lives and property. Otis experimented by placing a wagon spring above the hoist platform. He then attached a ratchet bar to the guide rails on each side of the hoistway. The lifting rope was fastened to the wagon spring in such a way that the weight of the hoist platform exerted just enough tension on the spring to keep it from touching the ratchet bars. If the cable snapped, however, the tension would be released from the spring and it would immediately engage the ratchets, preventing the platform from falling.

continued......
__________________________________________

Be safe, my friend.

Joel






Link:   Otis Elevator Safety Brake 

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 09-27-2007, 10:34 Post: 146140
candoarms



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 need a 110V winch

Frank,

When I worked in the foundry, pouring molten metal, we used chain hoists to lift the ladles. Dropping 3000 pounds of 2800 degree molten metal is something that you don't want to happen.

The chain hoists have e-brakes built right into them. Should something in the hoist fail, the chain won't drop.

I know a chain hoist would cost a bit more than a simple cable hoist --- but the hastle of designing and building an emergency stop brake is eliminated.

Chains do wear out over time, but on an elevator such as yours, I'm guessing that a chain would last at least 100 years.



Murf,

When I finish my new building, I plan on having an overhead loft much like Frank's........and I'll be installing an elevator as well. Forklifts are great, so long as there is room enough to move one around. But if I had enough room to move a forklift around, I wouldn't need a loft.

Joel






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 09-27-2007, 11:11 Post: 146150
candoarms



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Murf,

I agree. Loading the elevator can be a job. Unloading the elevator would be even more difficult, as there would be no way of using a forklift in the loft.


I plan on pouring my floor with a depressed area for the elevator, so that the floor of the elevator will be level with the shop floor, making it possible to roll a pallet jack right in. Keeping that depressed area clean and dry will be the only challenge, as it won't be possible to simply sweep it out.

A pallet jack can be lifted into the loft, right along with the load, making it necessary to keep just one pallet jack on hand. Pallets are the only way to go with this system, as there's never any lifting involved.

Joel






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 09-27-2007, 12:40 Post: 146161
candoarms



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Murf,

You are correct about the regulations and other red tape involved, but such regulations only apply to employers. Private individuals are not regulated in such ways....at least not here.

Even so, I would hard-wire the hoist, and then install an electrical lock-out switch panel on the wall, with padlocks on both the panel and the switch. This would prevent any children from playing on it, except at ground level.

It is true that the elevator would take up some valuable space on the shop floor, but the trade-off is well worth it. The additional 1500 square feet of floor space above, is well worth the lost 48 square feet (6'x8') of floor space the elevator cage will consume.

Joel






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