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 01-02-2010, 19:29 Post: 167861
kthompson



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 Maytag Oven

In a previous life I worked on appliances. But much more complicated now.

Frank, I would want to pull that control unit out and have it tested before I spent that much money to find out there was a simple broken connection or a fuse on it that was out. No idea but the control may need 110 volts and something may have broken that connection. Have you checked to be sure it has the 220 to 240 volts it (the oven) needs?

My brother is a Whirlpool dealer and for my money was the only brand to buy (worked for two different Whirlpool dealerships years ago, the one he bought being one. But much has changed in that near 40 years. He told me Whirlpool is going to use the different brands they bought to be different levels I guess much like GM does or did with cars. I do recommend read the Consumer Report before buying a large applicance or vechile. The annual report gives real owners feedback or it did and was very dependable.






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 01-03-2010, 17:43 Post: 167880
kthompson



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 Maytag Oven

Frank you don't mention this happening but if it lights up at any time and them goes out with load be sure there is not a poor connection. A problem I use to see often on stoves was wires burnt totally or a good bit through right at the connections. A problem that probably has been greatly reduced, but then heavy loads will show at the weakest link.






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 01-04-2010, 09:59 Post: 167894
kthompson



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 Maytag Oven

Jeff, do send it by Murf and not through DC. His percentage is reasonable.

Seriously have not seen an email from you and as to phone calls...are you still allowed incoming calls? Wink yeah right






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