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Best way to wire rewire my barn
One of the alternatives seems to be running a 100A branch circuit from a 200A service panel to a sub-panel in the shop area. I believe that codes in most areas allow max 125A branch circuits, so a branch circuit would work unless the shop has large requirements. However, codes probably require over-sized line for a 130' branch circuit run. A branch circuit to a sub-panel is a commonly used alternative, because it is much cheaper than running separate circuits over considerable distance. Most any standard service combination panel will work as a sub-panel provided a bonding screw between the common and ground buses is removed. What ever is used, it has to have it’s own disconnect, which is provided by the mains in a combination panel. Prices of new panel/breaker packages are often much less than equipment needed to do specialized hookups. I’ve got several 200A service panels that have mostly blank breaker slots just because standard residential equipment is much cheaper than alternatives. Supplemental grounding may be required if the barn houses livestock.
I did all the work for new services at our camp and house as well. In each case, I found the utility’s site facility planning people and the inspector very helpful. My first step was to contact the utility to get a site plan done—the alternatives suggested saved my many thousands. Then, permits were taken out for the service upgrade, renovation and new wiring. Once a permit issued, you can talk to the inspector, who often will say what they will approve prior to an inspection. That can save a bunch in equipment bought that wouldn’t pass inspection. You should be aware that any modification can require all affected equipment to be brought up to current codes, which can be very expensive. However, inspectors generally accept existing wiring unless definite safety hazards exist.
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Best way to wire rewire my barn
It's good to check out codes before buying materials. For example, I'm virtually certain that around here any underground line has to be direct burial rated, whether it's in conduit or not. The reason is that a 1' frost loop has to be left at each end of an underground run. For the loops to work, conduits are left open at each end underground, so loops can go 1' below the trench floors.
The main reason for running underground branch circuits in conduit is so the line can be replaced without digging an entire trench up. In addition, although conduit doesn't technically qualify as line protection, many inspectors are less particular about trenches when conduit is used. Service line must be in DB rated conduit, but conduit for branch circuits is optional. Here, most anything can be used for branch circuit conduit. I’ve had runs using 3” drain and even 4” flex drain approved. However, anything that is inside of a structure has to run through raceways of approved material.
Anyway, codes in other areas may be different. However, it's good to check them out. For example, if I bought overhead line and wanted to go underground, I'd be out of luck. Suppliers don't usually take back line that's been cut.
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Best way to wire rewire my barn
Another 'yes and no.'
The yes is that if I didn't have substantial past electronic and residential wiring experience, contracting the work might be a good idea. It takes quite a bit of study to have much of a chance of getting work passed. I’ve done the work as a homeowner more than once, and all my work gets inspected.
My point is that what is correct is not absolute and objective, it’s what an inspector will pass. Codes vary a bit in N.A., but codes also are interpreted by inspectors who often have choices of which codes to apply or to allow variances. Electrical and building inspectors are the closest thing to absolute monarchs left in the west. A good relationship with the inspector is everything. What I've found is that inspectors like homeowners--provided a homeowner's work is basically sound. You don't want to waste an inspector's time with poor work or dump questions. An aggravated inspector can make life unbearable.
My contractor story happened to a neighbour when I was still in the city. A new owner converted the house to rental and wanted to upgrade the service to 200A and divide some branch circuits. The guy took an astoundingly low bid and had the work done. Somebody came out and did the branch circuit work, and replaced a 100A panel (wired behind an old separate main breaker) with a 200A combination panel) and called it a 200A service. A week or so later an inspector wasn't at all happy. The job wasn't as bad as it sounds because the old breaker with its cartridge fuses was still there. However, the inspector said 'no way 40 breaker slots on 100A service line will fly.' The guy was lucky the inspector didn't shut the house down. The panel couldn’t simply be torn out and replaced with the 100A panel because the branch circuit work used more breaker slots. Instead, the guy to'd 'n froed' with the contractor trying to get a deal on the real 200A service. I don't know exactly how it turned out, but I'm certain he spent some money unexpectedly. I wouldn’t have had the problem, because I would have call the inspector beforehand and told him what I wanted to do, and he would have said ‘NO!’
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Best way to wire rewire my barn
Yep, pretty much my point too. Everybody can make mistakes through ignorance or just cutting corners. Homeowners doing wiring, contractors and even inspectors and ‘wiring made simple’ books make mistakes. Inspectors are the good guys in my experience, and I'd include most contractors along with the good guys too. If I had to make some bad guys, I'd say it's the homeowners and friends who do their own wiring without permits or inspections. There's some incredibly bad stuff around here, and I'd guess Peter's barn etc. probably was done by amateurs.
The main thing about contractors and codes is that contractors are going to make more money working to code than by cutting corners, because more materials and labour is needed. There's really not a motivation (other than just plain fraud, which I don't think is all that common) for a contractor to do sub-standard work.
Even so, it's good for homeowners to know a bit about the work. Some of the 'wiring made simple' book are pretty good. What works for me is to take out permits, and then plan using one of the 'simple' books. The permit means I can call the inspector for clarification (just not too many questions or dumb how to's). I figure the inspectors have saved me money by pointing out that some things in the books are based on outdated or excessive code interpretations.
What is important to realize is that ultimately homeowners have responsibility for condition of their property and liability for damages resulting for sub-standard or poorly maintained equipment. Contractors and the inspection agency share in that liability, but ultimately owners or their insurance pay first. Owners who were aware, or should have been aware, of hazards on their property can find themselves in uncomfortable chats with their insurance companies. Actually, I view inspections as cheap insurance. There’s every reason to take out permits and get work inspected whether a homeowner or a contractor does the work.
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