| Click to Post a New Message!
Page [ 1 ] |
|
|
|
Digging out a pond
I think Yooper has it pretty well nailed there.
Although we have had good luck in the past using pumps top drain the pond and then just walking a regular tracked excavator in to dig from inside.
If you do this however, a word of caution, either make sure you check the pumps regularly or walk all equipment out of the pond every night. I've seen some very expensive submarines in my day.
Best of luck.
|
|
 Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Digging out a pond
If you plan on cleaning out the pond with a trash pump it doesn't really matter how fast the water flows back in as long as it's not washing in more muck.
As was mentioned, as long as the ratio between solids and liquids doesn't get too far off balance and the discharge hose is fairly straight it shouldn't be much of a problem.
I wouldn't worry about the length of the discharge line either, especialy if there's a bit of fall to the pipe, the liquid in the line running downhill will actually create a suction and pull everything along pretty good.
We have run disharge pipes many hundreds of feet in cleaning out ponds on golf courses without any problems.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Digging out a pond
There is two basic ways to muck out a pond with a pump.
The first is the 'direct' pump method wherein you drag the pickup line around and sort of vacuum the bottom. This works well, especially where there is a limited amount of water, but it is slow.
We use the second method, known as the agitation method. It involves the use of a second smaller pump to create jet of water to stir up the problem areas and clean them with the suction from the big main pump. This method is very good for things like removing plant growth, or cleaning the edges. If you put up a siltation barrier around the area you are working on this can even be done in a stocked pond.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Digging out a pond
That is just a heavy duty 3" pump in a specialized floating frame.
A 3" trash pump will work just fine, if you want to go bigger than that, or if you don't expect to need to use it very often, you might want to look into renting one. The other pump you have is all you need for the agitation line, a 1" or bigger hose with a strong stream spray is more than enough to loosen the material and get into suspension.
If you can find, or even borrow, a small irrigation pump from a farmer in the area they work really well too, then you can justify the tractor even more.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Digging out a pond
There's probably several Air Bases in that area.
I would think a 1,000 pounder with a couple of milli-second delay fuse would be easier, besides the debris would be so far away you wouldn't need to worry about.
A couple of jugs might be enough to convince them to make an 'accidental' release of a live one.
Certainly be less fussing about than Yooper's idea, 'course the neighbours might not agree with either method.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Digging out a pond
Yooper's right, you can't buy dynamite without a blaster's license.
You can however, buy high nitrogen fertilizer & diesel fuel, according to the people in Oklahoma City it works really well.
I wouldn't reccomend anything on tracks for wet stuff, they don't float well and can be a real son-of-a-gun to get out of the muck when they stop moving.
I think the only two realistic possibilities are a) dragline, or b) get a wide pad excavator and wait for freeze-up. A foot or two of solid frost will keep a good sized machine sitting on top of most moose pasture.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Digging out a pond
The important thing if you want to work on top of the frost is to make sure that the frost gets down as far as possible.
You have to keep the snow cleared away and let the cold get to the ground or water. If snow is allowed to remain it will insulate the ground or water and the heat of the earth will limit the frost penetration or ice build-up.
We do this to make ice roads up here across lakes, rivers and MANY hundreds of miles of swamp to reach mining camps and remote villages.
I would not recomend a dozer, they will chew through the frost and sink in. An excavator will stay on top.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Digging out a pond
JD, the one thing you will have to be aware of though is if it is the tide itself bringing in the silt, you will be fighting a losing battle.
Natural erosion or siltation is a powerful force, the Army Corp. of Engineers spends a whole lot of time and effort on combating this very thing every year.
The best way to clear it, and keep it clear, is to make sure that the tidal flow sweeps the ditch clean every time.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Digging out a pond
If the area is filling with sediment from run-off you will find it is much easier to deal with the sediment BEFORE it gets to the water.
You need to develop some form of trap for the sediment. The usual method is to make some form of depression or pond-like structure near the ditch, this way the sediment can settle in the depression before the water drains into the outlet.
They sell a cloth product generically called geo-textile fabric which will allow water to pass through but not sediment.
The simplest way may be to have the water settle into a depression and bury some drainage tile underneath, this will allow the water to seep awy but the soil will stay behind.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Page [ 1 ] | Thread 97328 Filter by Poster:
9 | 4 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 9 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 5 |
|
()
Picture of the Day
Coachlarry
Unanswered Questions
Active Subjects
Hot Topics
Featured Suppliers
|
Gas Generator Weather Protecti
09-28-2004, 13:17 
Digg It 
Del.icio.us