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Bouncy Trailer
Cornrow
I think the idea about deflating the tires a tad is the best.
I will add that you want a straight and level line from the back of the hitch thru te trailer. You do NOt want the trailer tilting upwards or downwards. I am taking it as a Class 4 and not a 5th wheel or Goose neck. If it is a Class IV then you can obtain a hitch that comes out and drops etc to help enable the straight line.
GoodLuck
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Bouncy Trailer
Having a trailer that is not level will cause it to fish all over the road and may cause the driver to lose control.
Loading a trialer is also critical because of this factor, if the weight is too far to the front which causes a sag or tilt in the front you have danger, same if there is too much weight to the rear. ALWAYS maintain a level trailer and NEVER no more than 10 to 15% of the Total Trailer weight on the Class IV ball.
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Bouncy Trailer
Murf
Class IV trailer tongue weight here in the states should never exceed 15% of the GTW. If your trailer is at the max of 10,000 pounds for a Class IV, your tongue weight should not exceed, under any circumstances 1500 pounds and then you better have stabilzer bars, built up springs and weight-distributing hitch, actually when the tongue weight exceeds 500 pounds a weight-distributing hitch is recomneded. Any trailer over 5000 pounds should be dual axle. Vehicle pitch will take control away from the operator. Page 5 of the Dodge Towing Guide. Pitch causes the weight to be put unequally on different axles. too much weight to the front of the trailer will put too much weight on the back of the truck and thus, raise the front of the truck and put unecessary weight on bearings, springs etc of the trucks rear axle, this can cause uncontrollable sway of the trailer and loss of steering traction for the truck. Too much weight to the rear of the trailer takes the weight off of the ball and cause the rear of the truck to lift. Ball weight should never be less than 10% or more than 15% on a Class IV, if the ball weiegh is decreased it causes the truck to lift in the rear and lose traction, bumps will mulitply this loss and may cause loss of control of vehicle. If you are going to give advice to raise the ball, that is up to you. I give adivce I know is SAFE and correct. a proper loaded trailer is 60% in front of the trailer axle, 40% to the rear. should be level. load should be balanced from side to side. Tongue weight should not be less than 10% of the gross trailer weight nor should it exceed more than 15%. to determine tongue weight try this. king pins can go to 25%. Place a board over a piece of pipe on a household scale and a piece of pipe on a brick. Place the trailer tongue on the board two feet from the center of the scale and one foot from the center of the brick. Take the scale reading and multiply by three, that will equal the tongue weight.
I suggest anyone who plans on towing to either go to the dealer where their truck came from and ask to view the towing guides or you can stop at your local DMV and obtain the same. What they do in Canada, I have no idea.
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I forgot to add,
You will have far greater success with backing up accuracy if the trailer is level than if it has a pitch, either up or down. Try it at home with a trailer and your tractor.
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Art
I hear ya.... I hate the vehicles that bend in the middle. I had a trailer come right up along beside me once, I still had about 5 miles of Snowy mountain left to go down and the ole rule of the truckers thumb was step on the gas to get the trailer back behind you.  , when the pucker factor is whistling and everything says BRAKE, whew! I just got an adreline high thinking about it again.
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Art
I use to load trailers with Ordnance in the Marines. We use to haul bombs (500 pound MK 82s, 6 to a pallet) from the dump to the flight line some 8 miles away. We hauled missles, small arm ammo, artillery rounds etc and we would sometimes have five trailers hooked up to one an another behind the ole MJ-deuce. I will tell you one thing, when they weren't loaded right you would know it real quick.
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Murf
Have you got a problem with me? Have I offended you or soemthing?
Your reply was a very dangerous reply and raising the ball a foot, depending on so many factors may increase the ball weight tremendously or if a single axle trialer with the weight of the trailer too much to the rear could decrease. either way a foot is ridiculous.
My answer was for loaded or empty. keep it level or better yet, talk to the trailer rep who sold you the trailer for their BEST recommnedations. How is that? want to argue that too? What you all do in Canada, as I said, I have no idea, but your suggestion could land somebody in jail here for liable charges. My answer was right from a Towing Guide Book, got a problem, take it up with Dodge.
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Corn
Keep the deflation within the specified limits or you may create excessive Heat in the tire and risk a possible blow out. So be careful, but I think it will help.
I did have a Easy Loader trailer as Peters said, and Yes! the axles had slipped and the Ubolts had worked loose, I did have them align and it helped very much. He was right on about that.
Trailer should be level when empty and as level as possible when loaded and if you load your trailer as it is recommended 60% to the front of the axle and 40% to the rear and use the proper equipment etc and be within the Class IV Ball Range, you will always be fine.
Commin sense goes along ways
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Murf
If you would even think someone would be towing with a Honda Civic and need a weight distrubting hitch. What is the matter with you? you looking for a confrontation or do like showing your ignorance?
Raising the Ball a foot to eliminate sway is a real dumb suggestion and I will continue to say a real dangerous one. It is an 18 foot trailer and he mentioned 5ooo pound axles with an S. So is it a Low boy type of trailer and if so do you have any idea what the Curb wieght of this trailer is?
I gave all of my supporting info and where I obtained it from, as of yet, you have not done so and only tried to tear what I said apart. I told you it is straight from a Dodge Towing Guide and you still continue to want to be some smart ass. You offer No supporting sources for your claims.
I have a great idea you ignore me for now on and I will ignore you. How is that?
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Murf
Again you balantly make a statement with no support. Canada does NOT have the same regulations as the U.S. their legal load limits are 120,000 to the U.S. 80,000 and the number of axles allowed is more than the U.S. and the 41 foot Bridge law does not apply in Canada.
What regulations are you refering to Arete versus STOP?? or Quest is West or exactly what do you refer to?
If you can put 500 pounds of tongue weight on a Honda Civic and tow it, I want to watch you. If 500 pounds is the 10% minium that means you are towing a 5000 loaded trailer, quite an accomplishment for a Honda Civic that probably has a 1000 lb towing limit.
Why don't you really ignore me, your replies are quite assidine.
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Murf
You love to argue and say nothing.
If you raise the Ball one Foot as you so mentioned then when you load the trailer you will either have too much or not enough weight on the ball. Remember (unless you want to argue the facts as well) no less than 10% of trailer weight on the ball and no more than 15%. So if you load a trailer that is going to meet those specs of no less than 10% and no more than 15% and you load with 60% to front of trailer axle and 40% to the rear and I know you have no use for one if you like to jack the ball up, but for the people who use the correct equipment and that would be a weight distributing hitch if tongue weight is 500 or more pounds, than the load is correct. regardless. Care to argue that? I want to hear it.
Your math is very weak and if it has C channel, I or box channel rails would be very irrevelant what would be revelant and you neglected to mention would be the distance from the ball to the center of the first trailer axle. Yeah! maybe in your trailer case it made a 3 degree difference for a 1 foot raise at the Ball, that is NOT always the case and is exteremley isolated, due to brand and type. To be able to use such Blanket and General info for everyon, would sure make my job easier. Damn! the shorter the distance from Ball to axle the greater the degree change when Ball is rasied or lowered.
You can load a trailer any way you want and if you like a pitch on the trailer that is fine with me, but SAFETY and every Manual I have here in my office clearly says that Class IV ball should Never have less than 10% and Never more than 15% of the total Trailer weight.
Keeping the trailer level to the truck towing will keep even weight on all Axles which will give you the best uniform ride possible, but as Peters said, if one axle is out of aligment or dogging, then that will make a difference in handling.
Now for a slow learning Canadian, I will spell it very slowly for you.
a. Level when empty
b. load the trailer evenly from side to side
c. load 60% of trailer load towards the front and 40% towards the rear of the trailer.
d. Class IV should never exceed 10,000 pounds
e. Never have less than 10% of the Gross trailer weight on the ball and never more than 15% of gross trailer weight on the Ball.
f. Use a weight distributing hitch if ball weight should exceed 500 pounds.
e. Pitching a trailer may cause uneven weight distribution and loss of operator control.
So care to elaborate what you don't agree with. These are all taken from the Dodge Towing Guide and when we Job Rate a customer and sell him a truck this is what we go through. So Please inform me where I and Dodge are wrong. I want to be sure I give my customers the correct information. We sell a lot of Dualies and single axles etc and have fifth wheels installed and Goose necks etc etc so come on Murf, I am dying to hear your B.S. pour it on me.
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Short
I am not anal about my numbers either, but how long is this trailer that If I raise a foot at the ball will only make a 1/3 of a degree change at the axle? I am having a tough time accepting Murf's 3.8 degree change.
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from the Calif website
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/dl648/dl648pt12.htm
Load-distributing hitches are designed to distribute the hitch weight relatively evenly to all axles of the tow vehicle and trailer. The tow vehicle and trailer should be in a level position (attitude) in order for the hitch to do its job properly. Here is how to check:
With the tow vehicle loaded for a trip, measure the distance between the vehicle and the ground at reference points, which you can establish, in front and rear. Keep the figures handy for later use.
Hitch the trailer and adjust the tension on the spring bars so the tow vehicle remains at roughly the same attitude (i.e., if the rear drops an inch after hitching, the front should also drop an inch).
Inspect the trailer to be sure it is level. If not, hitch ball height should be raised or lowered, as necessary. You may need spring bars rated for more weight if you cannot keep the tow vehicle from sagging in the rear.
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go to GOOGLE and type in attitude of a trailer and then look at and read the 7th Title. It should read "TOWING YOUR TRAILER SAFELY The tow vehicle and trailer should be in a level position (attitude) in order for the hitch to do its job properly. Here is how to check: ..."
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dr
I made my statement quite clear and was replying to several posts and wanted to be certain that people reading these posts were NOT misguided. You may go back and reread my posts and you will note I made it known for empty and loaded and Peters made the best suggestions for Axle alignment and even carrying multiple inserts and Balls.
Murf decided he wanted to single my posts out with his sarcasisims and DR, this has happened a few other times on other threads and that is why I am aiming my replies at Murf. Please do NOT involve yourself, I have no beef from you and bought my JD based on a lot of your posts over the last couple of years. I researched what you said and never found any B.S. and you clearly stated OPINION when it was just that. Towing is serious and for someone to come on here and post some silly and half-ass posts without explanations could lead to an accident. Dealerships have been sued as well as Salesmen for giving information such as Murf is so Generaly doing. If what I posted is followed, it will be a SAFE load for empty or loaded trailer regardless and if there is problems with HOPPING or DOGGING, then Peters had the correct and intelligent replies.
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Bouncy Trailer
inflamatorty statement ??????
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The way you were implying that I was just a Brochured learned Sales Rep, I thought being a so called ENGINEER you would not make such trifle spelling errors. Guess I was wrong again..eh?
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While we are on spelling errors "instant dismaissal"?????
So if you were pointing out something with your post. Care to stop now or would like to carry this CHILDISH routine on longer?
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Corn
If you have the trailer LEVEL BEFORE LOADING and when you load your tractor and implements you must be sure you do not go under 550 pounds of tongue weight or over 775 pounds, you will have your trailer loaded properly and have the BEST ride possible. Now if you insert a different insert while running Empty that would be your best solution as well as slowing down. With this tongue weight on a Class IV it is also Highly Recommended you use a weight distributing Hitch. Any compromise will create a less than desireable ride and or experience.
Go ahead Murf, your turn.
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Some of you flock together like Flies on fresh laid manure.
Murf, I really have no clue who you are trying to impress. Level before empty and 500 pounds would not cuz a 1/2 ton to squat. You must drive a Ford or a Chevy or use a Bumper mounted hitch, mine is mounted to the frame. I hauled a 22 foot boat loaded and full tanks up and down mountains and out to Lake Champlain, with my DODGE 1500, long box, Reg Cab 318 C.I. for almost 10 years. NEVER had a problem, rode like a dream. Had about 600 pounds on the tongue with WDH. Didn't replace any brake shoes or pads or springs either. I had Monore Air shocks in the rear with about 70 psi. Easy loader dual axle trailer.
SHORT,
I have no clue what you typed or meant, What I posted is what I have been saying from post one. The info in the initial post implied, that at least the guy was dealing with a GTWR of 10k and what I have been typing has NOT changed one bit. Remember at 500 pound tongue weight you should use a WDH and if you load the trailer proper, it will be close to level when loaded. Do you all need diagrams as well?
At least Corn was able to take the good intel from all this and do what he felt was right even if some of you acted like children, at best.
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Murf
Consider this the last response to you. I expected the answer I got from you as I would have expected it from a 13 year old. You are right on, didn't miss a beat.
My 22 foot boat had two cabins, a V-8 and the 50 Gallon fuel tank was in the middle. Designed Light you say in order to float, is that what you are implying. Here we go. It is all about displacement, AMTRACS are far from light as well as many of the Assault Vehicles and they float fine. Better tell the Military to start redesigning, Murf doesn't agree with them..  MAO
My boat loaded was just under 6000 pounds.
Murf you don't need to do a thing, I could care less if your dropped dead from a Heart attack in the next ten minutes. If you choose NOT to use a WDH that is fine with me. I posted what the Porper thing was to do and if you feel compromise is good, then you post away.
Good Day. You have a fan club here, so enjoy yourself and you must have some life if you need to post pictures of your stuff for everyone else to see. I think I am not interested though. It is more the QUality of the Life and not the Quanity.
Your mentality is below any standard of my liking "I think there's a typo. in the goat-truck sales paperwork somewhere" GOAT-TRUCK????? come on Murf, is that the BEST you can do? Never did like Frogs, now I know why....
Good Day.
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