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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Ken, the other thing most people forget about any dump box is that it normally comes down EMPTY.
The more restriction there is to unpressurized flow, i.e. nothing but gravity and the weight of the box to put it down, the slower it will come down. Since a 2 way cylinder on a dump box is not adviseable the one single line is both the up & down flows. With a long small diameter hydraulic line you could be waiting for the box to return to full down for some time.
Best of luck.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Ken, didn't mean to cause a mind-melt.
It's just physics at work. A 2 way cylinder (power both directions) pulls the dump box down, if the linkage and cylinder lebgths are not perfect, the cylinder will start to bend or twist things, or rip welds open, like thiose on the dump linkage and mounts. It can make far more power than the rest of the machine can withstand.
If you have a 2 way cylinder, don't worry, use it, but as EW mentioned you only need to connect it to the port furthest from the extending piston rod. The other port should be capped with a vent to keep dust and crap out of it. You can buy vents at any hyd. place, or online from places like Harbour Freight or Northern Hydraulics.
The remotes on your tractor normally work as a set, but will work fine singly too, just hook one line to one port, either one will work. The remote valve on your CUT has a single handle that actuautes 2 valves linked together. When you move the lever one way, 1 port gets pressure, the other connects to the return to sump. When you reverse the lever position, the ports reverse roles, now the other line has pressure, and the first line is a return. If you use just one line, the lever puts pressure to it in one direction, but moving the handle the other way puts pressure to the unused port (causing the relief valve to open and dump the flow) and makes the connected line a return line.
Clear as mud, huh ???
Try it and see, just be sure to have the unused port on the cylinder open to breathe, air out on extension, air in on retraction, or it will become a big air spring.
Best of luck.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Ken, this is the breather I was mentioning.
You can find it at most hydr. shops, or just take a bolt, a drill press and some really fine steel wool and make your own.
Best of luck.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Ken, you CAN use both sides of the cylinder, just be *really* careful on the downstroke that's all.
I mean REALLY carefull.......
Best of luck.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Ken, I don't know how much weight you plan on dumping, but a 4" x 24' cylinder will make a LOT of push power.
If, for instance, your 4" cylinder has a 2" rod, and the tractor is supplying about 1500psi to the cylinder, it will generate just shy of 10 tons of push power.
I suspect that will more than empty your 1 ton trailer, even taking the geometry and losses into account.
If you give us some of the dimensions we can easily calculate what the minimum cylinder size you need will be.
Best of luck.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Ken, a box that size is only about 1.25 cu. yards.
Even if you were to fill it to heaping with fresh cut *hardwood* firewood, the load would still only weigh about 1400 pounds. If it was Douglas Fir firewood it would be about 900 pounds, chips, maybe 600 pounds because of the quantity of needles and bark reducing the mass.
I would think you could easily get away with a *much* smaller cylinder.
Best of luck.
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