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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
KW: Another thing to take into consideration is pump pressure and volume at the tractor remotes. And the inside diameter of the hydraulic lines; smaller (cheaper) lines will take longer for it to operate. And the type of lift geometry makes a big differece on how much it dump (maybe not so much in a one-ton lift but the larger ones). A hay wagon style (and there are others) has much more lifting ability from a dead, fully-down position compared to a direct-lift hydraulic cylinder which tends to need help to lift. These are generally mounted low, down in the trailer at an angle. A telescoping, front mounted cylinder seems to offer the best lifting ability.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Rankin: Now that you mention it I can have 12,000 lb. in raised up a few feet for weeks on my dump trailer and it doesn't leak down at all.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
KT: Are you sure about spraying oil from disconnects? $100 says they won't spray when using standard quick disconnects. The connection itself acts as a check valve preventing oil from leaving or entering the cylinder. Modern QD's are made so that they have already stopped fluid from flowing almost as soon as they are disconnected so that they can sometimes be considered "dripless" to meet EPA guidelines.
Gee let's see... what can I spend that $100 bucks on...(and don't EVEN mention new lace for the canopy, buddy 
EDIT DISCLAIMER: The QD's I describe are the dripless "flat face" type not the "Pioneer" that are prone to leaking and can spray oil if there is even residual pressure with tractor not on making pressure.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
KT: A SLICK NORTHERNER----wow that sounds remotely close to Carpetbagger.
My New Holland as a toy, hmmm. I'll give you that, but I make my living with it. How many toys can you say that about? BTW my feelings are hurt. Well okay, if HAD feelings they'd be hurt.
Pioneer vs. Flat Face Connectors: Therein lies the quandry. Now that you mention it I have had oil spray from the pioneers on the toy. I don't like Pioneers because they do leak--my toy's leak connected or not---and they're not ven made by NH! I naturally assumed EVERYONE uses the flat faced connectors which are used on the equipment I use and seen on farm equipment. You might want to consider using them. The long barrel shape has the internal valve it which like I said prevents leakage. It is very easy to disconnect them too since the pressurized oil behind the internal valve helps push the other side out, and as it pushes it out there are a series of o-rings and a plunger of sorts that seal up everything.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
As you mentioned the 3/8" line reduces your performance right off the bat since that is the largest line from the tractor pump so going up to a larger line won't hurt, but going down to an even smaller line will reduce performance more. Also the sharp bends and fittings in a circuit reduces performance. All this would be an issue if you had to accurately meter or control a mechanism or drive a hydraulic motor for precision indexing, but you're not so go for it. An example of using smaller fittings and hoses is on my backhoe after letting an unqualified hydraulics shop work on it the backhoe arm would turn so fast it would nearly jerk me sideways. Reducing the fittings to 1/4" as they entered the cylinder reduced it to an acceptable level. The principle here was I reduced the volume to the cylinder thusly reducing reaction time.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Not to worry KW, you have the right cylinder. All you need to do is run one "in/out" hydraulic line to the bottom of the cylinder. BUT you will need to come up with some sort of a vent such as a small engine, cartridge-type, fuel filter clamped on a fitting or pipe at the top. Some 4x4 truck outfitters sell these for venting axles and transmissions. The main reason being you need a vent is that when you lift, air on the top end around the rod, has to go somewhere which is vented to atmosphere. Second reason is eventually oil will get past the piston and it has to go somewhere. Conversely, when you lower the box, the same amount of air will be drawn in. If there is no vent filter, you get dirt sucked in which will destroy the cylinder walls, seals, piston and rod. Depending on dust conditions, you might want to remotley mount the vent filter to keep it out of the dust.
FYI: If you did use a true one-way cylinder, it, by design does not need a vent because the rod literally fills up the cylinder wall cavity leaving no room for oil---this type of cylinder is common on hydraulic bottle and floor jacks, telescoping cylinders on big dump trucks and trailers, and snow plows---where in all cases gravity or weight provides the opposite direction to force it closed.
And further, if you decide to cap off the top hole instead fo venting it, you will effectively create a big shock absorber compressing the air inside so you may only be able to raise the cylinder partially or at least until the pump cannot overcome the built-up air pressure.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
KW: I think you're asking for trouble by a.) using power-down AND b.) doubling the chances of ripping something like a mounting point or brackety out/off by installing a stop of any kind--a failure of this sort could be catastrophic to you and/or the trailer. It just doesn't make sense for this application to use power-down in any form.
But I'm jis' sayin'.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
KW: Maybe part of plan b would be to use a garage door spring (some rated at 175 lb.) that will roughly the same closed-and-open length as the cylnder instead of a weight since depending how vertical the box is, the weight would have minimal effect on pulling the box down, especially if you had the box dumped backed downward over a hill. Personally, for what you're doing and the design parameters you have, I don't think you will have any problems with either lifting or lowering speeds wiith just a plain, basic 2-way cylinder plumbed as a 1-way without weights, springs, etc. So let's see what the "Testing Department" says and how that compares to "Engineering."
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
edited for corrections
KW: Did you know you can save a few bucks by buying direct from the mfg. Bailey Mfg. (865) 588-6010 They make TSC's line and many other retailer's hydraulic products. BTW a welded cylinder costs a lot more than a non-welded, but they take a little more space too.
I couldn't find my Bailey catalog, but they have everything guys like us would need---even parts to build your own cylinder from scratch---up to 24' long!
Prince (hydraulic pump/motor/cylinder/valve mfg.) used to sell overstock and discontinued ones. Give 'em try.
Take $20 for the old one?
Link:
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
KW: Sorry. I should have checked the link. I made some corrections to last post with link and phone no. for two co.'s.
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