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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
The longer the ramp the easier the slope but the heavier to raise/lower. If you get the common type, hinged at the back and raises to vertical, consider adding a "Gorilla lift." Not costly, and lets me raise one-piece ramp with a finger. Or, get a two-piece ramp (left and right halves).
If tie-down points (either front and rear or, as suggested, at each tire) and a winch platform aren't included, check that it's designed so as to permit you to attach your own.
There will likely be a battery (to engage the brakes if it detaches while rolling). Eventually it will need replacing. Some trailer batteries are easy to match, others, I've heard, impossible, requiring a new case too.
(I assumed trailer tires were inferior or defective car tires, but seems I was wrong.)
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
Simple connector is the socket-on-trailer, ball-on-tow-vehicle. Usually a 2" ball but could be a size bigger or smaller. Fancier is the pintle and ring, for heavier pairs. (Simplest is the pin-in-hole but that's for little garden tractors.)
Good that you have a trailer package but they range from just an add-on ball-holder to all the wiring plus heavier drive system plus sometimes an equalizing hitch, so find out what's already there. Otherwise a weight-equalizing hitch requires an attachment to the vehicle. Better handling, and more forgiving, eg prevents fish-tailing (out of control trailer, due to high speeds and weight too far aft on the trailer). I don't think a simple test-tow would tell if you need one. And if you have the wiring already, there are several conventions for the electrical connector, and the trailer connector must match the truck one.
Single-axle brakes are common. Controller (and electrical connector) should be properly installed and should be designed to let you control how much braking is done by each of the two relatively, because you need less braking by the trailer when it's empty.
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