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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
Dual axle, brakes on at least one axle, brake controller, 7000lb. GVWRmin., for lightness an open deck with 2' wide runners, slide out ramps (fold up ramps may not fold up and hit the car, 16' deck min. , forget hand winch--install $150 Harbor Freight 3,000 lb. elect winch--bring extra battery and connect with clamps, most trailers have places to tie down to, consider a 5,000 lb. weight distributing hitch system---if you haven't tried one you need to! Use ratcheting web strap-type hold downs that go over the 4 tires--offers better ride since car can absorb bumps rather than being part of the trailer per se. Fold-down or removable fenders a plus--otherwise you can't open doors to get in or out. Get trailer with real trailer tires, not car tires--too squishy and reduces control.
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
No problemo! Stay away from any homebuilt stuff too.
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
Given a choice from a practical standpoint, a diamond tread steel floor would be my choice. I mentioned the runners since he didn't say he'd be using it as a utility trailer.
My family friends' kids love getting their little friends over and going for trailer ride behind the blue on the private back roads here. It's got a 20' drop deck with full fenders that are nearly as high as the kids' heads sitting down against them. And the dogs like the ride too. And believe it or not were talking kids ages 5-15 that beg to go up in my manlift which has a floor height of 43' straight up. To them it's a thrill. To the parents...not so much  !
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
$200 for a controller through him? Check around. That's about $50 too much IMHO.
$3000 seems steep compared to that's what I spent on a 12,000 GVW with 6' more deck. Check around for a used one for less than half I bet.
Brakes on both axles on a 7K is very unusual.
Adding planks for height--classy Just climb through the window if possible.
Reminds me of two guys I saw on the Coast hauling a full size Ford LTD with a downsize Chevy Blazer pulling a car trailer. The Ford wasn't technically ON the trailer. Rather, ONLY the bumper guards on the Ford's front bumper were on resting on the very rear of the trailer. No chains or anything---doing 45 on an interstate. Only in 'sippi!
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
A weight distributing hitch is basically self-contained---a combination ball mount "head" and torsion bar holder; two torsion bars; and two brackets that stay on the trailer. Ball mount stays on truck as a regular hitch; torsion bars can stay with the trailer or in the truck.
And yes a 10 minute test drive at highway speeds loaded is all you need to determine if you need this setup--especially when either passing a tractor trailer, or being passed by one. The difference is awesome!
I've had the same setup for 25 years now used on 9 trailers and 6 trucks--from 2 Jeep Comanches, a 4x Ranger, to several half and 3/4 ton Rams. I don't use the sway control option--there is plenty of friction at the ball and hitch to keep the traler straight. It is good idea to lube the ball though. I have had the ball show evidence of metal to metal galling.
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
I agree Murf, but having WDH allows future flexibility or even presently should he need to bias the load---car, parts in such a way that there is too much tongue weight. Having WDH even on an unloaded setup can make long trips enjoyable if the tow vehicle has soft or weak suspension especially on the rear. The entire rig just rides better.
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
Angle trailers: it used to be here they were inferior quailty mostly coming from Alabama and Georgia---poor welds, bad design. Worst of all is the axles were made of reclaimed full size Ford car spindles. They were plopped on lathe and a boss or counter bore was "machined" in the back side to locate the axle tube before welding. Problem was they were never trued before or after welding and did not have a crown in the axle tube nor did they have proper toe-in. A buddy bought a single axle utility trailer made by these guys andd chewed a set of tires in 80 miles. Typically these trailers can be identified by looking for passenger car rims with bad tires---but being sold new.
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
I built my shop from a 40' container. I cut it in half, moved the halves together so the front end sits next to the rear end. Then I cut the two walls that now create the interior out leaving a clear space of 20 x 18. I welded the two sections together. The open end was enclosed by 2x4 studs and two barn doors totalling 11 feet. 2 2x6's created the header to support the steel roof halves. Needing more room for a wood stove, I opened the old rear doors, installed a floor, back wall and slanted roof using steel wall studs and metal siding. I installed a prehung 36" entry door on one side, and 3x4 window on the other. The nice thing about this is can dismantle it or pull it with a dozer if I have to when I buy the land next to it. And the floor is 1-1/2" wax impregnated mahogany. I have. About $2000 into it. Recently I vynil sided it with free materials. And I didn't need a permit since it sits on blocks. It's heavy though! The box alone weighed 8,500 lb. All I used to cut it apart was a metal cutting circular saw from TSC and a sawzall--in 45 minutes flat!
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
We have several terminals ports here in Deeetroit that have them. I bought mine when scrap was high. But I got mine for $1200 plus tax, and $250 for transporting. There are three or four grades of them ---pricing doesn't vary that much though.
Once I saw how easy it was to cut it I'm not convinced I would use it to secure valuables. Shoot, a cordless saw with a carbide blade can cut it like butter. Even still, the locking door mechanism is easily defeated with the same saw or bolt cutters.
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Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car
Some 10' Schedule 40 or 80 6" pipe works great too. The area should be free from anything that will prevent easy rolling like small rocks---think: grocery basket caster stuck on a pebble.
When I moved portable garages I did it this way using only my 33hp blue. I used the box blade as a pusher. You can guide it or steer it easily this way. And as far as steering, per se, whatever way you arrange the logs/pipes generally the unit will follow, think: roller conveyor used to move boxes in a factory.
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