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Gorillas in the Glue
FYI
I had looked at the Gorilla Glue a number of times but there is just sparse information as to the makeup on the label and $$$. I had a gallon bottle of regular wood glue so why change.
Last spring a bought a small bottle and repaired my leather cell phone case. I had gone through a number of belt clips for the cell phone and finally spent the extra dollars on the leather one. It lasted longer but blew out the seams after about 6 months. The glue is still holding after 5 months so the Gorilla glue is paid for.
The last few days I started to work with it on wood. I had a bunch of scrap short 2x2 and decided to make them into a saddle trees to hang on the wall. I wet the surfaces of the wood and placed a small spot of glue on the area. One screw to hold it till the glue cures. After it cures it is strong enough to hold my weight.
I think the glue is a urethane prepolymer like the expanding foams in a can. It has less diamines in it to react with the water, but foams a little. It looks like it needs a hydrophillic (water loving) surface to bond.
I had some exanding urethane foams from Windlock with similar adhesion it seemed like it could glue anything. I certainly had a hard time removing it from the fingers without the skin.
You need less than you would with the waterbased adhesive. This expands the waterbase shrinks. The smallest bottle they sell is about the same as the 250 mL (8 ounce) bottle of Elmers.
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Gorillas in the Glue
I used Gorilla Glue to bond 2x12 beams I built my barn with. One operation called for me to drill and stuff carriage bolts through this beam, once set into place, by leaning over the 4ft high loft wall with one arm. It was a very hot and humid day so I wasn’t wearing a shirt. Did you mention in your post how much this stuff can expand on a hot and humid day????
Let’s recap, no shirt, humid, hanging an arm over a beam oozing with Gorilla Glue…. It took three weeks for me to get all the stuff out of my armpit and off my side. My B-I-L was helping that day and I think he’s still laughing about the day I glued my armpit shut. No permanent damage (except to my pride) but a lesson I will take with me forever.
This stuff can bond wonderfully, under the right conditions. I still tend to flinch when passing it on the store isle though.
Say Peters, is your picture #9 Insulated Concrete Forms? If you used them would you be willing to share your experience?
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Gorillas in the Glue
I build a basement 2000 sq.ft and barn 2400 sq.ft. from ICF's. I wish I had done the whole house. What would you like to know?
As stated. Caution with Gorilla glue you need less than you think and once on your hands help. I never did a lot with the glue but with the foam I lost a lot of skin as it builds adhesion much quicker.
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Gorillas in the Glue
Thanks for volunteering your experience!
We’ll be building a new house next year and this system meets many of my requirements, desires and wishes. The house will be around 3000 sq. ft. finished basement with same amount on top. Siding will be brick veneer with stone accents.
What I would like to know, from someone that’s done it, is, “Was it worth the trouble and would you do it again?” These systems are complicated and involved to properly setup before the pour (or pump, if you will) and require some care to get them just right. My research has uncovered a lot of claims, mostly from manufacturers, but I want real-world advice.
I was first considering just the basement but then thought, why NOT the whole house? So you would do it again?
Uhhhh, this system doesn’t involve any Gorilla Glue does it???
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Gorillas in the Glue
I haven't glued my armpit shut, but the stuff hold extremely well. I started using it last year.
I also use Titebond II when doing more "furniture" type applications where I don't want glue expanding.
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Gorillas in the Glue
One of the tricks with the ICF's is the use of the foam guns. It is a bit like spraying gorilla glue.
I used the ARXX brand blocks. They are engineered well and probably the best brand on the market. A group of ex-army engineers design it. Likely the same crew that designed the 16" square PE locking dock blocks for pontoon bridges and temporary docks. I have seen them used on everything from dingies to cruise ships now.
I took a course and built the first structure. The pictures are on my site. We set up the walls in 3 days and then poured in 1/2 a day. I had to have the instructor come and examine the first forms before we poured and get my certification. The system has its own scaffolds with jacks in the braces. It is quite easy to straighen the wall after the pour.
I have built both ways and I would say the ICF is far simpler. I helped build a pole barn one year with the neighbour and some Menonnites and we were no were near done in 10 days. My larger barn which would be equivalent to lock up in a house with insulation was completed in about 10 working days. We built with 3-4 people in 3 days and no one had worked on ICF's before. An experienced crew could have completed it in 1.5 days.
I have rock on part of the house and stucco on the barn. You can apply any surface treatment you want with the ARXX as the plastic fir strips are every 8 inches. The stone mason loved it.
The only thing that is more difficult is mounting the electical boxes. I used metal boxes and drilled holes in the wall and inserted plastic plugs.
You also need to plan ahead for duct work and plumbing. It is very easy to insert during the block build before the pour but difficult later. I spent a day cutting one hole for the airconditioning ducts.
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Gorillas in the Glue
The only drawback with Gorilla Glue is that it has no "gap filling" capability with any strength. It will expand to fill a gap but will not be as strong as regular yellow wood glue (Titebond, Elmers) in the same situation. The large the gap the less the holding strength of the Gorilla Glue. I use both in my carpentry hobby, like anything there is no one perfect solution. Certainly wouldn't use it where there was a chance of the foam getting on the finished surfaces.
It is a recommended adhesive in my business as a hardscaping installer (Interlocking concrete pavers, retaining walls, etc.) for wall caps, etc. due to its strength and affinity for water. I tend not to use it in these applications again due to the foaming. I use a non-foaming urethane adhesive in a tube for those applications, which is also significantly more costly that say Liquid Nails construction adhesive.
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Gorillas in the Glue
Peters, Thank you very much for all the info. I'm pumped now to use the ICF's on the whole project.
Much reading to do......
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