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Cedar Siding
Doug, I washed it down with a presure washer (plain water), then let it dry. I put 2 coats on, the second before the first one dries. You have to do a section at a time unless you have plenty of help.
Billy
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Cedar Siding
How did anyone ever learn anything before this message board came along? I have learned tons of stuff here, thanks!
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Cedar Siding
Doug;
It took me four weeks, for approximately 3000 st ft.
There are some conditions here though
1) on 3 sides I had to go to 4 scaffolds (20 ft) to reach the peak. The other side only to 3.
2)I used the cemsnt board that looks like cedar, rather than cedar. It is harder to cut and trim.
3) I was also doing the soffet, facia, metal rake and corners and some trim.
4) The eaves exend out to 4 ft from 15 inches on 3 roof lines. Some of the bird boxes took 1/2 day to frame due to the wacky angles and having to climb 3 scaffolds to trim and return. This also extended the time required to do the soffets as they require 2 cuts for each piece.
Glad its done!!!
Peters
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Cedar Siding
Stan
I am in the process of repairing woodpecker holes in the boards of my board and batten siding. I use a hole saw to remove a round 2" plug, then use another hole saw to make the plugs that I put back in the holes. Did about 20 of them today. Will pressure wash before applying semi-transparent stain next week. The plugs look like oversize knots, and don't seem too objectionable.
For the woodpeckers, I use the shotgun when I can, but also use rat traps baited with suet and hanging near the new holes they are pecking. Only solution I know of is to get rid of the occasional woodpecker that seems to be marking out its territory.
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Cedar Siding
I've had cedar board-on-board siding for 25 years. Never had pest damage until this year (western Wis), and it's only a couple woodpecker holes. Bird seed supply stores sell a mylar tape that's shiny red one side, silver other side. Draping it near the pecker's favorite site helps keeps them away -- it flaps in the wind.
I used CWF (cedar wood finish). years ago it was only available as an oil. It's not a stain, but enhances the orangish cedar color. About $65/5gal pail; applies with a rough-surface pad. I put it on before installing so the CWF would soak into the boards lying flat (and 2 coats).
On sides that face E, W, and N, i haven't had to refinish at all (25 years). If the wood gets wet by rain or sprinkling, it will fade to a characteristics grey quickly regardless of finish. I have 2' overhangs and avoid the sprinkle spray. The north side suffers from fading and the soft fiber between the growth ring ridges deteriorates. Had to replace maybe 1/3 of the boards. They are expensive when buying 7/8"x12"x24'.
jim
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Didn't complete one thought:
The CWF is now available in a water-washable version. It is higher viscosity and easier to apply than the original oily version.
jim
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Cedar Siding
Olympic also make a stain for cedar. Olympic was owned by Weldwood in WA, but I don't know now.
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I have a house that has cedar siding on two stories down in Georgia. I used CWF every two years to maintain it. The carpenter bees and woodpeckers finally drove me to the point of covering it all with vinyl siding. The bees would bore into it and lay eggs and then the woodpeckers would dig them back out.
Don't do it!!!
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I have cedar siding and love the look. My siding is somewhat different than I have seen on other houses. It is more of a "car siding" than an overlap type. It is also has a smooth finish as opposed to the rough. The house is almost 2 years old and I have applied three coats of preservative to it. The first 2 coats were Behr 92 which is a linseed oil base product. I applied the clear and it gave it a nice orangish tint. By the time I was ready for the third coat, Behr discontinued the product. Home Depot tried to sell me Behrs water based equivilant and I elected not to go that way. Instead I went with Olympic's similar product. I think it is called Olympic Gold. About $85 for five gallon. After viewing other posts, it looks like I am putting too much on. The reason that I have put three complete coats on a 2 year old house is because around the knots after a few months it appears that the product is going away. Is this because because of the wood density it can't absorb as much product therefore it disappears faster. Has anyone else noticed this. Is it a problem? I would love to get to where I only have to do this every 3 or 4 years. Right now, I wouldn't change a thing. As I said before, love the look.
Tom Young
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Tom;
I am not sure the stain is sinking into the knots. Normally the oils in the knots seep through the coating and then darken on the surface. It reacts with the Nitrous Oxide in the air. This will be duller than the rest of the wood.
Too much into right?
The knot will not absorb as much stain as the rest of the cedar.
Peters
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Gas Generator Weather Protecti
07-26-2002, 15:38 
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