| Click to Post a New Message!
Page | [ 2 ] |
| | |
|
Brake problems
I am sorry I took so long to get back to you all. I see some really good advice and information Will try and cover all that has happened. When checking the back brakes last time I only pulled off one side and did not inspect thouroughly (My stupidity). The outside on the pass. side was decent at that time. Wrong!!! I just tore everything apart 3 weeks ago. (what an easy job!!) Love those 4wl disk. I think Av8R called alot of what was going on (he must have had one  ) Back brakes were wore un evenly and corrosion and crud had built up on both the top and bottom of the uneven wear points. On one side I had only about 1/2"-5/8" of solid contact. The drivers side was a bit better but only on the outside. The rotors probably could of been turned. I know when I turned the front they only have enough for ONE turning on them since I did it myself and took the bare min. off and am at the low limits. Only took about .030 off (total of both sides). I made a executive decision! Re-place with new ones and clean up the old ones when I get back to work and sell on e-bay. This will eliminate any doubt I may have if further problems occur. TRY $92.75 a piece!!! Pads were a decent average price. What a easy job on those back brakes! So I was hoping I had the problem fixed. After further review NOT!! BUT with out a dought, the backs were helping next to nothing for stopping and the fronts were taking the load. This was part of the cause for early anti lock kicking in. I do believe I have a combination of problems and many of the posts here have hit a bit on the causes. The brakes definately are helpng now cause on dry pavement I dont feel like I am being thrown thru the front window anymore my just the fronts working properly. The anti's do not kick in as often or as soon as before but they still are not right. I think I mentioned in the first post that the dealer (on my complaints after the accident) said he changed a computer code or setting to try and help with this. Although you would think (if there really is such a thing!) it would be set harder to go off and not easier? I wonder if I should not go talk to the dealer, bring in the back rotors and show him them! Tell him to look up my last complaint about the brakes and what they DONE to fix them! Then politely ask him if after observing the rotors if he thinks I should of been told of this problem? Or if he even see's this as a problem? Then I would have him between a rock. I would think he would have to talk to his mechanics and ask why the hell they did not pull off the tires to check this basic function? I can't believe they did or they would of suggested this to be fixed also? What do you think? Then I would nicely say that my brakes are still acting up badly and would like them to switch back what ever they done to the factory settings? FOR FREE since apparently they never checked a basic component of the braking system. My conplaint read,
"Customer. say's anti-locks are activating early and often" Would you say that they should of atleast notified me? I think I also have the pads still, maybe I should bring them in also. Untill this time the dealer in question has been outstanding! In the service department. Even though I did not buy the truck from them they have been outstanding with my service and will more than likely buy from them if they can compete even remotely in price the next time.
Anyway you all had real great answers and many of you may of hit it on the edge of a few problems going on with it. Thanks alot guys. BTW. Just a bit of "411" When performing the removal of the calipers, there are 2 bolts that need to be removed on each caliper. That is it! Here is something that took me awhile to figure out. There is a rubber boot on this bolt. you need to slip a open end wrench in between the boot and the retainer. This bolt has a slip nut that it goes into and you really cant see it cause of the rubber boot. You will be turning that bolt for ever wondering why it dont come out all the way. One of them came out but that was because it was salted together. After looking at the book I found this out. After that (I shit you not) the other side took me all of 20 min. to remove the tire and all components, replace and put the tire back on 20 min. !!!! Awesome system the 4wl disks have on that chevy, now if I can just get them to work right.
So what do you think? Should I go talk to the dealer like I said, or do you think it is futile to try and get them to switch this back to a factory setting (If they really done this at all?)
Thanks again guys your all wonderful!
|
|
 Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Brake problems
Hi, I have a '98 GMC 2500 4X4 with 64K miles. At 58K the anti-lock breaks would come on at low RPMs when they felt like it. Even on dry pavement. I had to bring it back 3 times until the Chevy garage told me the magnetic strips buried in the hubs were bad. They tried swapping the sensors first. The hubs cost me $2,200 total. Even though all said this should not happen, GMC would not help me with the bill. First they said the truck was rusty?? Then they said I should have had GMC work on it and not Chevy???. I hate General Motors and they know it. I will buy Toyota next when they make a 3/4 ton. Has anyone else out there had to change the hubs?
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Brake problems
Once you have a bad experience it is hard to reconsider that company again. I owned three GM vehicles: a muscle car, a pickup, and GM's first attempt at a compact. All of them had problems, the most with the premiere of the GM compact car. I have not been back since, and have no regrets. They may have improved alot in all those years, but they won't ever get any of my cash again. Too many other quality things to buy, once burned forget it.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Brake problems
Disc brakes are great to work on, aren't they? I can change the front brakes on my Dodge 3/4 ton in less than 45 min, including 16 lug nuts, pads and DA rotor scuff (rotors are part of the bearing assembly). BTW my Dodge uses the same calipers and pads as a Chebby. Thanks to the DANA 60 axle.
My rear brakes are drums, with 150k miles on them and still have a lot of shoe left.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Brake problems
I had similar probalems on my '98 tahoe. When I was below 7MPH, anitilocks would kick in, at first when I had brakes engaged, later anytime. Turns out little known chevy bulletin - I had rust built up under the front sensors, pulled them, scraped the area, liberal grease coating, re-installed and I am still good 2 years later. Not fun to pull, figure 2-3 hrs to do both sides if you are a shadetree like me. Hope that helps.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Brake problems
Hi, Today I filed a 2'nd complaint with GM Customer Service and also a complaint with The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to go after my $2200 that I gave them in Nov. 2003 to fix my ABS. I have a '98 K2500 that is not included in the '99 - 2002 recall and it should be. GM also told me it is only Canadian trucks but that is not true. The Fed. is investigating complaints to the NHTSA about "buildup of corrosion on the anitlock brake system may cause it to activate at low speeds, increasing stopping distances". You all should file the same complaint!!
This is a known problem that GM is trying to cover up. They are trying to wear us down but I will not give up. The people that had accidents really need to speak up. Later
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Page | [ 2 ] | Thread 104485 Filter by Poster:
3 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
|
()
Picture of the Day
DennisCTB
Unanswered Questions
Active Subjects
Hot Topics
Featured Suppliers
|
Gas Generator Weather Protecti
02-07-2005, 08:31 
Reply
Digg It 
Del.icio.us 
