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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
I don't think you'll be very successful in cleaning out the sludge at the bottom of your oil pan by pouring mineral spirits or kerosene down the filler tube. If you have a paint gun you can put some lacquer thinner in the gun and force it up through the hole from the outside with high air pressure. Lacquer thinner really dries oil nicely and you can get in in any home center. After some number of applications the hole should stay dry. Then put the JB weld on from the outside after you clean and roughen the metal with emory cloth. This cure has worked with my 350 chevy now for over six years.
Dave
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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
Whatever you do, don't use rtv silicone seal- you should never use rtv on steel exposed to water, as it has acetic acid in it that will accelerate the rust. Maybe urethane car window sealant might work until you can get it fixed properly???
T
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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
I'm not a big fan of JB Weld, but...
it worked great on my latest Farmall tractor gas tank. Drained the tank, cleaned up the surface of grease and rust, applied and let it set a day or so, then ground it smooth with a flap disc on an angle grinder, primed and painted. Started as a temporary fix, but unless it vibrates loose this summer, it will probably stay the way it is.
Let us know what you decide & good luck,
Bill
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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
The engine does need to be removed to replace the oil pan on the PSD, not only because there is no room, there is no pre-formed gasket, only silicon. The stuff that Ford uses is so strong I doubt it could be separated while in the vehicle. The diesel tech I worked next to at the Ford dealer had a PSD on a stand, prying on the pan with 4' long prybar and it still would not come loose. (yes all the bolts were out) Only use the Ford silicon, it is grey in color and comes in what looks like a half size tube of caulk. Some guys refer to it as diesel silicon.
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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
My neighbor got back to me about his mechanic friend. The dealer wants about $1200 plus parts for the job. My neighbor's friend will do it for $600 plus parts. I think thats the route Im going to go but not until fall when things slow down some. Im still going to do the JBWeld thing to get me through the season. Ive got some other stuff made by Loctite called Metal Magic Steel that I got from work. Its more of a putty that you work with your fingers. Ive got the oil drained, the pan all scraped, wire brushed, sanded and cleaned. I got a couple of test areas of the JBWeld and that Metal Magic curing on a scrap piece of metal to see how they setup and work. If I just had a little hole to fill, I think the JBWeld would definately be the way to go but after cleaning the pan off, I can see that the metal is pretty thin along the whole back edge of it. Im thinking the putty may work better to cover the larger area. I was going to use a fiberglass cloth sandwiched between layers of JBWeld covering the bottom of the pan but that now seems like a mess in the making.
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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
Done.
It took me about two days and $40 (not including an additional $30 for oil and filter).
I tried using the Loctite product but it didnt seem to setup very well for some reason so I scraped it off and smeared some JBWeld about 1/8" thick all over the bottom of the pan, threw the 500 watt lights to it so it would setup good and hard and put some good primer and high temp paint on it.
So far its doing well. Judging from the way the JBWeld went on and the way it setup, It will be on there for some time to come.
If I can stop the further progression of rust, I dont see this repair ever being a problem again.
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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
Glad to hear that your repair turned out OK. Sure would have been nice to be able to remove the oil pan and replace with a new one but those power strokes are shoe horned into the engine bay it seems. At least from the ones I have looked at. A Cummins oil pan can be removed (engine in truck) but it still is a VERY difficult task. Hopefully the repair will last a long time and save you some money. I would just keep a close eye on it.
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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
Best of luck on the "bandaid." Glad to hear you plan to replace the pan though. Make sure to keep lots of spare oil in the truck if you go very far from civilization with it in case of another failure.
With so many of the Ford PSD trucks on the road I'm surprised (well, maybe not...) that they have this problem so often. Lack of paint, huh? Did your truck seem to have any paint residue where the rust was/is?
Unfortunate the design of the install is so cramped that all that work is required to do the repair. Boy, do I love my Dodge/Cummins even more now.
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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
The paint on the pan seemed to be fine (except where the rust had taken over). I think it was just a case of years of heavy salt use. Im not sure its strictly a Ford problem, I think it may happen to more Fords, maybe, because more Fords are used for "working" applications where they are subjected to more extreme conditions. Think about how many more Ford utility, dump, plow/salt trucks you see on the road than Chevys and especially Dodges. Thats not a bust on Dodge, I wouldve actually preferred a Dodge but I couldnt find a 4X4 Dodge dump truck anywhere.
I suspect that my next rust related issue will be with the brake lines or hydraulic clutch lines. Theyre looking bad. Im going to start working on that problem before it becomes a problem.
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7 3 powerstroke oil pan rusted through
I know this is way too late to help the original poster but it may help someone else.................
oilpanrepair.com
Maker: Damian Diesel, Avon MA, 1-508-588-5970
Youtube Vidieo:www.youtube.com/watch?v=slnFCb46IO8
He only make them for diesels............
For the gas engines: drain the oil overnight,this part will sound strange,trust me.it works................put the drain plug back in.............
drag you shop-vac over to the truck and stick the suction hose on the OIL FILL TUBE...turn on the shop vac,let it run a few minutes...get under the truck and use a good cleaner........brake cleaner works great,clean it really good then use a wire brush to remove any loose rust or dirt,clean it again with brake cleaner the use either or permetex item called "the right stuff"gasket maker,it comes in a tube like caulking.
Get you caulkikng gun and a heavy pair of rubber gloves don't use the thin gloves this stuff is thick and sticky!
Get under the truck and "smear"a good,heavy coat on the oil pan,smooth it up with you hands,don't cover the drain plug!
I always let it set for about an hour with the shop vac runnig...tighten the oil plug,add oil,check for leaks....I found this on youtube a while back but couldn't find it today.
I have done two of my trucks and two for friends and they have never leaked.
Oh yeah,the shop vac creates vacum in the engine and keeps residual oil from ieaking out and contaminating you patch material......JB weld works,I prefer "the right stuff" 'cause ya don't have to mix anything and it cures reall fast.
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04-20-2004, 07:41 
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