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 10-11-2007, 10:25 Post: 146803
DennisCTB



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 Sihl Chain Saw start with WD40

Murf,

That WD40 tip for starting a tractor was interesting and got me thinking of another application, but I have some questions. I seem to remember that some years ago they may have used propane for the propellant. As a result of which someone exploded a can and of course a big liability suit.

So now when I went to their site they say the propellant is CO2.

I was amazed a couple of years ago how useful WD40 is when my kids melted some crayons into the carpet of our then new car by dropping them in front of the rear heat ducts. Sprayed it with WD40 and it dissolved it with no damage to the carpet or the carpet backing.

Anyway, do you think the current version has the same engine starting characteristics? Then I was thinking I have an old hard to start Stihl chain saw, would your WD40 advice work on that ?








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 10-11-2007, 10:35 Post: 146804
FrogLick

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 Sihl Chain Saw start with WD40

I may be mistaken but I think that WD-40 may have silicone as one of it's components. If so, probably not the best thing to use as a starter fluid. The amount of silicone that would actually get into the ignition system & engine would be very small, but still why not just use starter fluid?






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 10-11-2007, 10:46 Post: 146806
Murf



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 Sihl Chain Saw start with WD40

Dennis, there is much secrecy around the formulation of WD40, there is an old story which claims that the main ingredient is fish oil, and in the 50's when it was first developed, that indeed may have been the case.

Today however, despite the company's effort to keep it a secret, Big Brother says WHMIS info must be provided and the MSDS (material safety data sheet) clearly lists the principle ingredients as;

50% Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits, also commonly known as dry cleaning solvent),
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant, carbon dioxide is used now to reduce considerable flammability),
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil),
# 1-5%: Carbon dioxide.

So there you go, it's paint thinner, with some LPG and Mineral Oil.

Kind of explains why it cleans so well, it's about the only thing I've found which will remove the black grease I get on my hands from the plane too.

As for your chainsaw, I don't see anything in there that would be a problem with or to the saw, but I'd take it easy all the same.

All we've ever done for a stubborn chainsaw was to give it a few drops or a splash of gas right onto the air cleaner element. Over the years I've discovered, you really can't flood a small 2 stroke, if it gets too much gas it's gone in three pulls of the starter rope.

Best of luck.






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 10-11-2007, 11:42 Post: 146811
DRankin



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 Sihl Chain Saw start with WD40

My Stihl is real fussy about having a clean air filter, probably because of my mile high altitude.

Anyway sometimes it does seem to flood on a warm re-start, especially if I give it too much or not enough choke.

The only thing that seems to get it going again is to pull the plug and blast all the wetness off off with compressed air.

After that it fires right up.






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 10-11-2007, 12:22 Post: 146815
Murf



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 Sihl Chain Saw start with WD40

Mark, do you know if your Stihl is properly setup for your altitude?

If it's set according to factory spec. (for sea level'ish) it will be out enough a mile up to definitely affect performance and most of all, starting.

The wet plug and affect of a dirty air filter seems to indicate exactly that.

That's why airplanes have a (usually extremely sensitive) mixture adjustment control right at the pilots right hand.

Best of luck.






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 10-11-2007, 12:40 Post: 146816
DRankin



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 Sihl Chain Saw start with WD40

Yup..... Knew that. Even though I have not manipulated such a control for a bunch of years. I will check with the small engine shop down the road and ask about adjustments.

I recently checked into renewing my pilots license but $140/Hour (plus instructor fees) is too big a hurdle.






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 10-11-2007, 14:01 Post: 146820
Murf



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 Sihl Chain Saw start with WD40

Mark, I'm not familiar with the limits on the 'new' licenses, but there are a couple of categories you may not be aware of.

There is the much-talked about Light Sport lic. which is for lighter experimental type planes, these have come a looong way from the days of flying TV antenna's with chainsaw motors on them, they look and fly (and cost) like 'real' planes. In fact many older planes are being re-licensed as LSA (light sport aircraft).

There is also something called a Recreational license.

Again, I don't know about the FAA reg's but in Cannuckistan it works like this. A Private Pilot permit requires a MINIMUM of 40 hours ground school plus 45 minimum hours flying, of which 17 must be dual time, and 12 must be solo, 5 of the solo must be cross-country. On top of that you need to pass a Class '3' medical.

A Recreational license on the other hand only requires a MINIMUM of 25 hours flying time, and a Class '4' medical (lower limits and signed by family doctor not FAA approved doc.) with NO requirement for ground school, although it's recommended.

The difference is a Rec. lic. only allows flying a single engine plane certified for 4 persons or less, daytime hours, within Canada only and a maximum of one passenger. The only endorsement you can add onto it is a float rating.

BTW, the cost is out of whack down there too, up here it's $150/hour including the instructor. A couple of the big Florida flight schools websites show they're only charging $159/hour for a 172 with instructor.

If you were south not south-way-west I'd offer to do it for you.

Best of luck.






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