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Bad River Tractor Tool Rack
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Ken, we use a rack that has a narrow slit in it and clamps to the one of the arms of the FEL. The saw blade goes down into it like a holster and is secured there by a rubber bungee cord. It will hold up to 3 saws. On the other side is a rack almost exactly like what landscapers use to mount gas cans on the side of their trailers, it holds a gas can and bar oil.It is something easily made up yourself.Best of luck.
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Murf, that's a good idea but it probably wouldn't work in my circumstance because of the close quarters around the trees. The loader arms often swipe trees and branches and it wouldn't be good to bang the saws into trees while driving through the woods. An arrangement that would keep the saws somewhere inside the four wheels would be best. Yoopers idea of having it above the 3ph area would be perfect if it could be made to work.
Once again I find myself wishing I could weld.
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Bad River Tractor Tool Rack
See you have pictures here like I do, none.  So on your tractor you have a roll bar, and possibly canopy. How about mounting a mount across the back of the roll bar? You can do so with clamps and no welding or drilling of the roll bar. You could clamp on such as the socket part of gate hinge and have the pin part of the hinge on your mount to just sit in place when needed.
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Bad River Tractor Tool Rack
Wow, I don't know what happened to my pictures. There were at least twenty before. There will be a whole bunch of broken picture links now.
I thought about the clamp-on-the-rollbar thing before and thought it wouldn't work for some reason, but can't exactly why. Maybe it was because it would interfere with the backhoe when that was attached.
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I was thinking about a mount design you could lift it in place to use when wanted and then off when not needed. That should not be hard to make and possibly could use like gate hinges for that. I use some for pivot point on sprayer booms and have worked good.
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Bad River Tractor Tool Rack
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Murf, that's a good idea but it probably wouldn't work in my circumstance because of the close quarters around the trees. The loader arms often swipe trees and branches and it wouldn't be good to bang the saws into trees while driving through the woods. An arrangement that would keep the saws somewhere inside the four wheels would be best.
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Ken, do the same thing I was talking about but mount it on the inside of the FEL arms. It may restrict you from lowering them 100% when the saws are there, but that shouldn't be a big issue.
The other way you could possibly do it is to make up a rack that mounts to the locking pins for the fold-down ROPS. That way you could quickly put it on & off so it wouldn't interfere with your B/H operation.
Best of luck.
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Ken, do the same thing I was talking about but mount it on the inside of the FEL arms. It may restrict you from lowering them 100% when the saws are there, but that shouldn't be a big issue. The other way you could possibly do it is to make up a rack that mounts to the locking pins for the fold-down ROPS. That way you could quickly put it on & off so it wouldn't interfere with your B/H operation.Best of luck.
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That might work, I'd have to do some fitment to see. I worry about the front tires hitting the saw bar as they turn. Or are you talking about the saw bar being parallel to the FEL arms?
Yoopers rack might be made to work if there were some sawbar holster type slots with rubber bungees to restrain the bars.
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Ken, I doubt the saw bars could reach the tires unless you are running some mighty big saw bars, the FEL arms themselves have to be nearly a 18" from the top surface to the underside of the lift rams. Just from memory there's many inches of clearance between the lift rams and the tire beyond that.
Like I mentioned though, I still think given your concerns it might be a bunch easier (especially since you're not a welder) for you to make a plywood rack that uses a couple of hooks or eyes that the lock pin for your folding ROPS would go through, maybe with the bottom tied into the upper 3pth mount point.
Best of luck.
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Also try looking at the different kinds of racks make for landscaping trailers. But you should be able to take say a 2 x 8 and using some 2 inch lumber for spacer be able to bolt another say 2 x 8 on to make a simple but very strong mount to drop the saw blades through for them to ride very well. Now the pole saw would not fit unless it is one the shaft comes apart on.
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There are some good ideas here. I think I'll wait until Yooper releases his new rack to see what it's like. If it doesn't do everything (does anything?) maybe it would be a good basis to build on. Murf's loader arm idea is worth further investigation too.
Although it would be most convenient to have the saws on the tractor they are most often used in conjunction with the chipper so I could hang a rack on one fender of the chipper or build something that sits on the tongue. The pole saw may fit lengthwise somewhere there too.
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I should learn how to post photos here; meanwhile I'll describe my various holders. It's these holders that put the "U" in "CUT."
I mounted a horizontal strip (1" X 1/4" metal) to the side and within reach of the driver, into which I vertically insert long-handled tools. Under is a one-foot length of 1 X 2 channel, open side up, into which the ends of the handles rest. V-shaped tools like loppers hang on the strip.
I mounted two wall hangers (from a dollar store) on the side, one fore and one aft, onto which I can place long tools like a pole lopper or chainsaw.
Behind the seat I mounted metal stock (4" X 1/8" from the top back of one fender to the other, and installed on that a wood shelf, with sides to keep the contents from falling out. It holds a chainsaw even in its case, gas, or an electric that plugs into the inverter. (Must unbolt the shelf in the winter so I can see the snow blade.)
A toolbox for chains is on the grill-guard I made up. Fitting was precise, to clear the FEL and the hood tilting forward. Two more, for tools and stuff, are within driver reach, and a rim around the closed top allows stuff to be placed there. A fourth I made of wood to exactly fit the top rear of the hood (just in front of the driver). It stays put unless I lift it off to open the hood.
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