| Click to Post a New Message!
Page | [ 2 ] | | |
| | |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
Ken, the manufacturers statement is pendant one one single circumstance.
The earth on BOTH sides of the wall must be stable, and hopefully undisturbed.
If you are building a series of terraces, each will have the potential to shift, if only a little bit, that will progressively affect the next one.
For example, the highest wall shifts 2", the next 5" (2" + 3" , the next under the increased load moves maybe 9" (5" + 4", by the time you get a few terraces down it's moving more than a foot, if it hasn't fallen over.
IMHO, you need to use either GeoGrid (as Jeff mentioned) or a deadman every few feet to tie it back into the existing earth.
As EW also mentioned, gravity is the problem, if you join two things together, i.e. cement in a conduit, and the wall settles, the conduit will not last long. I think you'll find it's a LOT less work in the long run to either move the conduit or the proposed wall location.
Best of luck.
|
|
 Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
Relocating the wall is not really an option - the location is dictated by the need to control hillside erosion so the shed doesn't slide down the hill in a couple of years  It already has settlement cracks in the concrete floor and the doors don't close right anymore.
Moving the conduit will add another couple of days to the job but it looks like it has to be done. I'll have to disconnect all power and control wiring at the generator in the shed, pull the wires out, dig deeper (and hopefully avoid the geothermal ground loop), rework the conduit, fish the wires back through and then reconnect everything. Yech. Oh well
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
Ken, why can't you bring the conduit to the surface and go over the wall?
Or for that matter, put the shed (and generator) in a new location?
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
Ken, seeing the concrete floor has cracked and the problem with the door makes me think of an ad on radio here often. No idea how well they work, cost or anything other than commerical. But they put steel piers down beside the foundation and jack the foundation level and solid based upon the ad. No idea if that would solve the problem or not. If you would like me to try and find out more on the procedure let me know. I will not be on line until Monday. Hope you well, kt
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
Ken, Just as I hit send the name of the company popped into my memory. Link is below. kt
Link:
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
Murf, going over the wall would be nearly be the same amount of work as going under and not nearly as attractive in a finished landscape. Moving the shed would be a major job - the generator is bolted to a concrete floor, plumbed to a 1000 gallon propane tank and wired to the house. I know where the geothermal loop runs so I could go over that, drop below and under the wall, then up to the shed. The part I mostly wanted to avoid was disconnecting and pulling the wires and then fishing them through and reconnecting again but it's for a good cause.
KT - Thanks for the link. The shed is really in pretty good shape now with just the signs of trouble ahead. If another year or two goes by then I'm afraid some real damage will occur.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
Ken, if the only real reason for these walls is to stabilize the shed, there is another option. It might be less work than what you are proposing.
Drill holes with a PHD as deep as you can go a foot or so out from the existing shed. Then pour a footing in the bottom of each that contains small steel I-beams standing up, then back fill the holes with compacted sand. After they are ready have a steel beam bolted or welded to each forming a ring in a trench around the shed. Once that is done excavate (gently) all the soil between the ring beam and the shed, and a little ways under it's slab, then pour a new slab that runs under the existing one and around the ring beam.
The result will be that you have a) put deep footers under the building, and b) greatly increased the size of the slab and so increased the area that bears it's weight.
If you want more detailed info. just whistle. I'm in the midst of doing something similar under a 120+ year old log cabin right now.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
Thanks for the idea Murf. That sounds more expensive than building a new shed!
The shed is the main reason for building the retaining walls this year, but long term we wanted them anyway to convert a steep slope adjacent to the house to level ground that can be used for a dog run and small greenhouse in the future.
I'll post some before and after pics.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
I was always told that to not ask a question is the only dumb question, so here goes. What is Geogrid? Is it the same thing as we call a dead man or anchor buried bebind a wall to hold it in place??? Can't keep up on construction slang. Frank.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Working around retaining wall obstruction
My understanding is that it's sort of a woven mesh material that is buried to stabilize the soil. The soil locks onto it and it helps to hold it in place.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Page | [ 2 ] | | |
Thread 155900 Filter by Poster:
4 | 3 | 2 | 11 | 4 |
|
()
Picture of the Day
Coachlarry
Unanswered Questions
Active Subjects
Hot Topics
Featured Suppliers
|
Gas Generator Weather Protecti
08-08-2008, 09:09 
Pics
Reply
Digg It 
Del.icio.us 
