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 08-09-2008, 07:14 Post: 155953
earthwrks

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 Working around retaining wall obstruction

The mesh comes in various thicknesses; fabric widths; diameter of the "threads" in the mesh; what the threads are made of; what the mesh is coated with; and the open spaces between the threads themselves--to name some characteristics. This shouldn't be confused with "GeoTextiles" which are a mesh, but are usually tightly woven and used priimarily for road building. The theory behind the GeoTextile is similar to how a trampoline works, except there's road building material covering it.

(I'm kinda needing more rest--so my description needs some polish--but here goesSmile

The GeoGrid I've used has openings of about an inch and the fabric roll is about 4-5' wide. It looks like wire fencing but coated black. Essentially you are building a dirt-and-GeoGrid sandwich many layers tall. The GeoGrid lays between the stacked courses of retaining wall and is usually held in place by the weight of the blocks and interlocking vertical pins.

If you have ever tried to pull a section of downed cyclone fence that has weeds growing up through it, you'll have a basic understanding how the GeoGrid works. But multiply that pulling force many times with each successive layer of fabric.






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 08-09-2008, 09:43 Post: 155957
hardwood

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 Working around retaining wall obstruction

Over the last 40 years I've been on and off our parish council several times. About 30 yrs. ago I was put in charge of hiring a cement contractor to tear out and replace an aprox. 5 ft. high retaining wall in front of the church, the old one was probably 80+ yrs. old and was shot. Anyhow I hired a young fellow from a family of cement type people. I knew very little about retaining walls, so the young fellow explaind to me that a solid cement retaining wall will never stand straight for very long unless you make provisions for drainage of the water from behind it. When they poured the wall they put 2 inch PVC pipe thru the wall from front to back at the base just above the ground on the bottom side spaced about 6 ft. apart then filled behind the wall with coarse crushed rock to drain the water from behind it. His comment was that if there is water behind the wall that the freezing and thawing of that water over the years wiil eventually push a wall to a leaning position. He must have been right, the wall is just as plumb today as it was 30 yrs. ago. Frank.






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 08-09-2008, 10:22 Post: 155958
kwschumm



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 Working around retaining wall obstruction

The manufacturers design book explains all about drainage on these stacked walls. A perforated pipe is wrapped in landscape fabric and surrounded by gravel at the rear base of the wall and it drains to daylight. I'm not yet sure exactly where that daylight will be but it will be found somewhere.






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 08-11-2008, 22:50 Post: 156032
kwschumm



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OK, I'm taking Murf's advice and moving the wall. I was trying to avoid rebuilding the steps on the deck but that seems a lot easier than moving the conduit. The steps have 7-8 risers now and with the wall they will be down to only two or three, which is less deck to maintain (always a winning strategy!).






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