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 03-10-2011, 14:58 Post: 177323
treeman



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I think you get what you pay for as far as rot protection. Your rotting will happen at ground level where it is moist AND has air. Posts I've pulled out after 15 years show no rot at the bottom but some at ground level.






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 03-10-2011, 15:23 Post: 177324
Murf



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We have to plant a lot of posts (wood and otherwise) every year, and since most of them are in the middle of a bunch of very pricey turf, otherwise known as a golf course, you don't want to have to do it very often.

After a conversation with a a long-time electrical utility employee about their poles, the average age of which is 30+ years old, I got a whole (hole?) new appreciation for how important preparation is.

Their method is to make the hole no less than 8" larger around than the pole their putting in. They put down at least 12" of "pea gravel" on the bottom of the hole, then stand the pole up in the center of the hole, then pour more pea gravel in around the pole compacting it with a small hydraulic vibratory packer on the end of a long wand.

The end result is that the pole is standing on 12" of stone, with a minimum of 4" of stone all around it.

The pole is rarely wet, and rarely rots.


Best of luck.






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 03-10-2011, 15:42 Post: 177325
earthwrks

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Murf these posts that you plant are they from seed or transplant?

Seriously though, the utility co's here simply drill a 4 foot hole a bit larger than the post and drop them in with little to no tamping. However on the Gulf coast where there is nothing but sand where they drilled post holes they use expanding foam as backfill.

The pea gravel idea sounds good on paper, but what if you have a high water table (as little as 12"Wink yeah right like we do here? It would seem no gravel should be used otherwise it will create a soup bowl.






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 03-10-2011, 15:43 Post: 177326
Chief



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Not debating the suggestions for making a post in the ground to be installed to last. Pipeline right or way easements regularly have heavy equipment come through to trim back trees, cut trees that become "danger trees", and mow/bushhog. Fencing that is installed to last on a permanent basis in the long run may be more cost effective but I suspect the pipeline easement people want the pipeline easement left open or at least fenced in such a way that it can easily and without damaging the fencing be opened up. My suggestion would be to coordinate with the pipeline supervisor to see if they would either cost share or bare the entire cost of a simple steel T-post and barbed wire fence with 4 to 5 wires depending upon the height you want to go with and and simple steel gate that can all be purchased at the local Coop or Tractor Supply Center. T-Posts can easily be pulled up with the proper puller undamaged if need be and later reinstalled. They will STILL provide just as much deterent to trespassers as a more expensive and permanent fence. This is what I use to keep ATV riders off of our property. They make a trail......my hunt club guys fence it off with T-posts and barbed wire. They go around the fenced off area, they add more T-posts and barbed wire. Eventually these douche bags get the idea and find some place else. Hidden IR/Passive flash and other types of trail/game cameras and recording devices also go a LONG ways to identifying the dirtbags who refuse to abide by the NO trespassing signs. I have also had some success in writing, speaking with, and lobbying my state representatives to amend the trespassing code to make it a criminal act and NO LONGER a civil issue to trespass and the crime becomes aggravated criminal trespassing if any signs are disturbed or and damage is done to fences, gates, or the property. The penalty is still a misdemeanor but now instead of a civil fine, the accused is charged criminally and must retain an attorney or plead guilty in general sessions court. This will amount to about $2500 for an attorney plus the fine and court costs. It's not a perfect solution, but it's a start.






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 03-14-2011, 21:05 Post: 177389
chrbranic1



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Sounds like using land scape timbers is not the best idea for at least two reasons. One being rot at ground level, the other is the posts will become distorded, leaning over, generally in in the direction of the loads imposed by the fencing. So be it we will use the product which is made for the purpose. About the pipeline, the gas company did not have a concern other than gaining access for emergency repair. At this time we are putting in a fence with no gate and and ok with it being tore down to conduct emergency maintence. We hope cutting grass is not considered emergency maintence. Thanks for the help folks.






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 03-15-2011, 08:14 Post: 177395
kthompson



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As to Murf and EW comments on the post or poles the electric company install here with often very high water level never had notice any sign of gravel but they are using tar and a water proof wrapping of the post a few inches below ground to about 4 inches above ground. My guess is like a foot below ground but have never asked.

Here landscape timbers as post last about three years. The tee metal post seem to last very well here but are not used a lot other than road fencing. But have not notice a lot of private new fencing last few years.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Landscape Design Forum

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