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 04-26-2004, 07:31 Post: 84325
TomG

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 ditch retaining wall construction

Riprap is what I've seen used around here for erosion control. Of course, solving erosion problems in a waterway often results in silting one place and erosion further downstream.

Seven foot of moving water in an 8' bank sounds like a liability problem that was caused by somebody else and I guess that's another possible approach of a legal type. There was something like that near where we lived when I was in the second grade and it's likely not a good thing for small children to have access to. Trouble was that it sure was fun to play in. Solving the damming may be another issue worth solving. Wonder where the trash comes from?






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 04-26-2004, 09:14 Post: 84335
Murf



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 ditch retaining wall construction

I guess I'm going to be the 'new idea guy' today.

We have successfully used corrugated steel sheets for similar problems on golf courses for years now.

It is sort of like the stuff commonly used for agricultural buildings but heavier material. It has about a 2" - 3" square'ish rib pattern to it. You just stand it up in place and push it down into the soil with a B/H/ or loader. The next sheet interlocks, via a small overlap in the matching shape, with the next sheet as you go. It is normally cut to matching height and capped with a formed channel which is welded in place. Tie-backs consist of huge 'screws' about 8" in diameter and 4' - 8' (depending on height of wall) that are threaded back into native soils behind the wall. When finished the whole thing is back-filled. It can be installed vertically or leaned back up to 45 degrees. IT goes up fast and is very long life stuff.

Best of luck.






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 04-26-2004, 11:48 Post: 84358
yooperpete



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 ditch retaining wall construction

What Murf was describing is something similar or the same as what some people have done for a seawall along the Lake Huron shoreline. That stuff really works but is not the most beautiful thing to look at from some points of viewing. Back filling with a number of loads of large rocks will do the same thing but in a more natural setting.






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 04-26-2004, 19:15 Post: 84401
trbomax



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 ditch retaining wall construction

We were here first,and the thing that you are discribing is just what happened.Difference is,immediatly downstream of us is a county park that they built a dam in and created a pond.This is one thing that slows down the drainage now.Upstream of us, the two property owners were dupped into letting the county "channelize" there property back 20 yrs ago when this all started.By the time that I found out that we [in effect] own the drainage, it was too late for them and now they have an even bigger sewer than I do,But since we now know who "owns" it, the county has washed its hands of the whole thing, and told us its our situation.I dont really care what they do, because when I wanted to fight the development in 1983 no one was interested, so all the legal expense went on me.At this point in time, and at my age, Im just going to do what I was told I could do and basically to hell with everyone else.I got several estimates to fix this drainage on my property from $40k to $60k.This is out of the question, so we just bought the equipment and are doing it.I wanted the equipment anyway to play with up north at the other property, so I took advantage of the situation,or so my wife says!






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 04-26-2004, 19:35 Post: 84405
trbomax



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 ditch retaining wall construction

murf, Thats sheetpile. Ive got 400' of it along the river at our marina. It was really expensive when it was done [1975]$200/ft., and now is about $1000/ft.Thats a real permanent solution, but as was stated, not very pretty in a residential setting.Im in a situation where what ever I do only has to look good for 15yrs topps,and by then I wont worry about it anyway,my kid can!






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 04-27-2004, 09:18 Post: 84466
Murf



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 ditch retaining wall construction

That makes things a little clearer, and yes I was thinking of sheetpile, but they also make it in lighter duty (thinner gauge) material, I have also used just plain galvanized (or painted for that matter) roofing for the same purpose, it works just fine and is CHEAP.

If you have relatively good access you could easily build yourself some plywood forms and have a readymix cement truck pour you some huge slabs about 4" thick and full of 6" steel mesh, basically big patio slabs. If you place a scrap of chain at the top corners picking them up and placing them with the FEL is real easy. You could either stand them up or just lean them against the bank. It will be a fast easy solution that you can go at your own pace with. You also have the option of colouring the concrete any colour you (or your wife) wishes.

Best of luck.






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 04-27-2004, 11:36 Post: 84482
trbomax



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the concrete slabs are a real good idea. How much does concrete weigh per yard ?
That would be a lot easier and maybe cheaper,not to mention permanent.






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 04-27-2004, 11:42 Post: 84483
trbomax



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now you got me going! I could even make a plank design on the face of the slabs,color the concrete ,and put wire rope loops on the backside for tiebacks !If I put my 4x4 posts behind them to stabilize while backfilling,I could even cap it all with wood to make the wife happy !






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 04-27-2004, 11:59 Post: 84484
Murf



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For rough calculations use 4,000 pounds per cubic yard of concrete.

If you want it broken down a little further, that would be 148.15 pounds per cubic foot, or 0.086 pounds per cubic inch.

If you use a 1,000 pound slab for instance as a maximum size limit (for lifting and carrying ease), and you want a 4" thick slab, 10' long, that would mean 4"x120"=480 SQUARE inches, 0.086 x 480 sq. in. = 41.28 pounds per running inch of slab (width-wise). 1,000# / 41.28 = ~24".

So a slab 10' long, 4" thick and 24" wide would weigh about 1,000 pounds plus a little for steel mesh.

Another consideration, for costing the project out, would be that a single yard of concrete would yield a slab 4" thick, 10' long and about 8' long.

Best of luck.






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 04-27-2004, 12:07 Post: 84485
Murf



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If you use rough cut lumber for the forms and spray the inside face of the form with concrete colouring product It would come out of the form already looking that way.

Most importantly, coloured concrete will be maintenance-free for life, the wood capping may not holdup well to debris coming downstream or be loosened by shifting of the wall.

Best of luck.






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