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Fuel in Crankcase Need Help
2007 TS model; Kawasaki FJ400D Turf Gator.
Was running fine and then all of a sudden started running rough and smoking.. Thats when I discovered the gas in the crank. Can run a few minutes and almost fills crankcase.
I have cleaned and checked float( upside down about level or higher than lip.. The needle valve seals off- pulled carb away from intake, and cranked fuelpump ; no fuel leaking out of throttle body..
I did notice a lot of blow by from crankcase.
Checked the diaphrams in the fuel pump. looked good, moves fuel.
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Fuel in Crankcase Need Help
Pretty obvious the only place fuel in the crankcase can come from is the carb. I would think the only way the carb can get fuel into the crankcase is to have the gas level get over the float or by the needle and let the gas run in the intake. So either the float has a hole in it and it isn't floating or the needle isn't plugging the hole. I can't remember seeing any other reason.
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Fuel in Crankcase Need Help
I can't believe you can get that much fuel running through the carb and keep the engine running. I have the 300cc gator TS and the fuel pump uses the vacuum of the crankcase to operate the fuel pump. I know you said you have checked the pump but I would check it again especially the pipe to the crankcase, can you smell fuel in it? You shouldn't.
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Fuel in Crankcase Need Help
That was it . Replace fuel pump ; Problem solved. Thanks Lostjohn
Also;
My driven clutch, is making a loud squeaking noise louder than engine.. what do I need to replace or do I have to buy a whole clutch?
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Fuel in Crankcase Need Help
Glad to be of service 
Are you talking about the big lump that is on the end of the crank and which the belt goes around? if so, strip it down. Its pretty easy WHEN you have got it off the engine. There is a 13mm headed bolt you need to remove, thats easy BUT then you need a long shaft and i think its a 12mm threaded bolt which pushes agaisnt the crank to pop off the clutch unit. Its a pig! Personally, i would take the engine out and do it on the bench. Removing the engine is half an hour, just remove exhaust, attachcments to starter and carb then remove stabaliser bar to rear diff and four securing bolts underneath. Once on the bench you can easily remove the long 13mm headed bolt and see with a torch the larger threaded bit that you need to tackle. Actually, thinking about it, if you take the engine out, you could leave the clucth on the crank and just remove the end of it to see what it wrong, its four small headed bolts.
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