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 01-03-2001, 12:00 Post: 23046
cutter



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I will be in touch with zoning tommorrow re: the holding tank. Great idea. The Morton link lets you play with the colours. Having too much fun.






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 01-03-2001, 22:56 Post: 23066
RCH



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Here is another good discussion on radiant heatig. Page 5 reviews the technical aspects of the various tubings including PEX
http://www.taunton.com/fh/features/materials/hydronicfloor/1.htm






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 01-04-2001, 20:48 Post: 23086
cutter



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Thank you RCH. I am saving all these postings until I get a chance to sort through them. Checked on the floor drains, OK in my area. The holding tank is OK too, as long as it is "silent".






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 01-05-2001, 06:33 Post: 23092
TomG

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By the codes around here, urine can't be put into a leeching pit. We demolished the house at our camp this summer in favour of a construction trailer. Nobody in their right mind would want to continue using the existing septic system, which incorporates a buried car I've heard. We put in a composting toilet and built a 1000 liter-per-day gray-water leeching pit. The toilet has an electric evaporator and gets by codes because a liquid overflow line is optional. So far, the toilet works OK, although keeping a good composting activity going is a little tricky and requires at least weekly use. If a shop toilet is going to used frequently, it might be a good idea to compare costs of a holding tank and pumping with those of a composting toilet.






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 01-05-2001, 09:21 Post: 23096
Murf



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I am rather surprised that the code would not allow a leach pit, since in every jurisdiction I can find a 'pit privy', an outhouse to everyone else, is perfectly legal. BTW, I forgot to mention that in a lot of areas the most populr way to deal with holding tank is to dig the hole and form it into the buildings footings and floor directly below the washroom, with a 'clean-out' in the floor of the washroom itself. This way the yard does not need to be disturbed, snow plowed, or any digging done in order to get the line in to pump out the tank when full. Most of these installations incorporate an indicator, usually a float type guage, to let you when it's time for a pump-out. Best of luck.






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 01-05-2001, 14:11 Post: 23105
Larry Nixon



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Cutter: I have been following your thread for a few days and I thought I would give my 2 cents worth! I built a new pole barn 16 years ago and I went thru the same eperience as you are. I drew up my own plans and I went to about 4 different companys, I ended up hiring a crew of Amish and it took them 7 days to build me a 32x64 pole barn with 14 ft ceilings.They did my concrete floor , put up a metal ceiling with 6 in of insulation , plumbing for a bathroom,2 floor drains,conduit in floor for my electrical and also laid up a chimmeny.I work along side of them and I really enjoyed the experience. They are quailty carpenters and very honest people to deal with. My total labor for the barn was $2,200, Each man would give you a time slip at the end of the week and you paid each indivdual, The hourly rate was fro $3.00 to $6.00 @hr.I have 2 12x12 overhead insulated doors with openors on them, in 1 of your threads you mentioned a sliding door and I had one to start with but they do not seal up tigh and in the winter you have to shovel snow to open them.I have a bathroom with a stool and sink and shower, I also installed a on demand hot water heater.I also put my wiring in conduit and have air line thruout the barn.I live in Northern Indiana and I dont know if you have Amish in N.Y. area. I backfeed a generator thru my welder circuit to feed my house. I run my septic line from the barn into the house septic. I have a partition down the middle of my barn so I dont have to heat the whole thing. You can build 3 new house in your life time and each one you would change after a while and a barn is the smae way. Good luck Larry






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 01-05-2001, 15:43 Post: 23108
steve arnold



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Cutter, I have been breathing and sleeping pole barns for the last 11 months.
Morton Buildings just finished my 54'x90'x14 footer, it is the cadillac of pole
barns but also cost as much. I was totally sold on the in-slab radiant heat early on into the plans. A local wholesaler sells Maxxon products for this kind
of heat and will design the system for free as will others. I am choosing them
mostly because they have the cheapest bpex tubing around. I also chose to install a head inside mostly for party traffic. When Penske bought into the Kmart auto centers around Detroit, he cleaned out the least profitable branches
and i ended up with one of above ground hoists for $800 keep an eye out for deals. I am 30 right now so i figured out what i have to store and doubled it. Good luck.






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 01-05-2001, 16:11 Post: 23109
RCH



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Bifold Doors
Since we are seriously talking about a shop I am wondering has anyone had any experince with bifold doors. See the link or cut & paste. http://www.bifold.com The do not encroach an head room so a 12' car lift could be close to the opening. The also look like they would provide an "awaning" for sun and rain. Also no shoveling in order to open with snow. Can you have a window in them, do they seal good for a heated space, etc ?






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 01-05-2001, 16:33 Post: 23111
steve arnold



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I dont see anything wrong with bi-folds, Morton puts Wilson brand doors in their
hangar buildings and those can be insulated. they are especially handy if you need to put a 24' wide combine in a 30' wide building.






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 01-05-2001, 20:08 Post: 23112
cutter



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Funny you should mention Amish. They no longer reside close enough to utililize, however one of my estimates is coming from the Martin Builders, a Mennonite family. They have done buildings for several folks I know and are excellent carpenters as well. I have settled upon a dividing wall and ceiling in the shop area and a bathroom as well. One thing I missed that was just mentioned is the burried air lines. I do like the idea of backfeeding the electric for emergencies as well. The building will most likely be drawing it's power from a different road (read circuit) than my house, which may sometimes solve the outage problem there without the use my generator. It seems our circuit goes down frequently. The reason I was going to install a 12x14 slider on the back side close to the end is to use it for entering and depositing my 10'x30' used fishing boat I plan on buying when I retire. It will have to be placed on blocks for winter storage and there will be very little wiggle room when the marina brings it up on their trailer. It will go straight in and off, which would block the large overhead door for further axcess. The ones I have looked at in my price range are around 10-15 years old and in need of a LOT of work. Being inside would be a Godsend. And that lift idea is great. Maybe I need to add 15 more feet of barn!!!!






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Barns Pole Barns Forum

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