| Click to Post a New Message!
Page | | | [ 4 ] | | | |
| | |
|
New barn
Cutter, keep in mind one fact of human nature; we fill whatever space is available. Making that barn 15' bigger still won't be big enough. 
|
|
 Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
New barn
Cutter, make the barn bigger now. When my wife & I bought our house & lot 4 years ago (5 acres) it came with a 34 x 60 pole barn w/elec & H20. I am no longer allowed in as it is her dog training facility. Soooo, this fall I added a 16 x 23 addition to one end for our TC29D, implements, yard tractor, utility trailer etc. Without a cement floor it cost $4,900. Do it now as it will cost less!
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
New barn
Murf: You're probably aware that the codes governing septic systems etc. were radically changed in Ontario a few years ago. I'm not sure that all the newly privatized health inspectors quite have their minds around the new codes, or maybe the new codes aren't quite consistent. As far as I know, a biffy is still legal. In the original code revision, a new biffy could be installed provided there was no pressure water on the property. I believe that stipulation was removed just last year, but there is still strong encouragement to put in a new code, and very expensive, septic system. The Director of the District Health unit had to approve our application for a gray water leeching pit rather than a septic system for our camp (one or the other is required). We have a composting toilet, but as far as I know we could have built a biffy instead. The health inspector was very definite that that the liquid over-flow line from the toilet couldn't go into the pit. I think the distinction is that human waste and gray water can't be mixed. Any liquid over-flow would be more than just urine, but I suppose the idea is that a little waste and a lot of gray water has greater potential for contaminating ground-water than a well built biffy.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
New barn
Well now the boss says build it as big as I can. She has visions of storage space dancing in her head. I don't see it turning into a kennel (my wife doesn't have the time for any animals other than me), but knowing women as I do, some $$ now may save a battle later. I just started drawing the plans for conduit etc. under the cement floor. This will be so much easier and better thanks to the ideas from everyone. I have contacted an individual re: purchasing the materials for the floor heat for the shop and forced air possibly for the infrequent times I would heat the machine storage area. Now I sit back and wait for the first estimate to come in.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
New barn
Hey Bird Senter you said it right. 20 years ago I had a 30x60 building and a 24x36 garage. Had enough room for all I had and more. Now I have the same 30x60 building added a 30ft loft, a 40x80 Morton, 40X30 garage that is 2 story, and a big garage for the wife. All of them are now full of equipment that is essential to the operation. . I thought at the time that I could never fill up the area. Now we are back to moving things around to get at things. I do wish I had a pit. This would come in very handy. All the equipment needs oil changes enough that I would do a better job if I had the pit.
In the heat department, I was surprised no one mentioned a waste oil heater. I have used one and it works nicely for getting rid of the used oil and heating for a minimum cost as an auxiliary. I don’t have enough oil for a primary heater but I use it to take the chill out of the shop when I work there in the winter.
Anyway, I can say this, Morton makes a nice building. If you talk to a sales rep, I doubt that there is a design feature discussed here that they have not built. I would highly recommend at least a 16 ft and even more an 18 ft overhead type door. It is really nice for getting in and out of, especially if you ever use the door end for a 2 unit parking space. Our building is great. The 30x60 is a custom built unit and to be honest I wish we had gone with a Morton for the money. But it was a long time ago. Hope you have a good experience with what ever you go with.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
New barn
Thanks for the input Turfman. I had thought of the waste oil heater however I don't have enough oil to make it worthwhile. I am going as big as I can afford now. One drawback for me is that I will have to fill extensively for every additional foot of length. Just by eyeballing the sight, it appears to drop at least two feet in fourty. I am wondering if I should fill after the construction to avoid having to purchase so much gravel. The flatter ground is too far from the house to build there. Any ideas would be helpful. I think the gravel is better than the free ditching fill the town gives away, it will help keep the building dry.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
New barn
I've been around one of those waste oil heaters. Boy! Talk about hot! They sure work well. I'd guess you want some sort of heater....or at least the option of having some heat. A good compromise would be to build in the insulated thimble where the hot stove pipe goes through the wall or the roof...or both. Then just cover the hole with a "block-off" or stove hat. Once the insulated thimble is in place, then hooking up any type of stove is an easy. If you don't know what stovepipe diameter that you are going to need, make it for a 6" inside diameter pipe. That is the most common large size.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
New barn
I am going to try the floor heat in the shop and forced air propane for the rare times I'll be heating the storage area. I plan on leaving it set just above freezing. The stoves won't pass code around here. I just took one out of my 24x32 garage due to the insurance conflicts. Putting propane in that as well.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
New barn
You want to talk about fill....I had to raise the whole 40x80 5 feet to get out of a flood plain. I knew it of course ahead of time, the cost was fairly high.
My shed is continueing to mutate to the needs of the times. I add and I take away. Yours will too. Enjoy the project.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
New barn
Adding to Murf's earlier comment regarding eye bolts in the floor: To prevent bumping into or tripping over eyebolts, sink them below floor level by placing them in a section of four inch pipe set into the floor before the pour. This allows you to padlock down valuable equipment while also covering the holes with flush-to-floor caps. If security is a significant issue I've seen ocean shipping containers (heavy steel) built into barns and shops to provide near safe-like security for tools and equipment. They can be purchased all over the country at reasonable prices.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Page | | | [ 4 ] | | | |
Thread 22933 Filter by Poster:
2 | 1 | 1 | 19 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 9 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 2 |
|
()
Picture of the Day
dododo
Unanswered Questions
Active Subjects
Hot Topics
Featured Suppliers
|
Gas Generator Weather Protecti
01-05-2001, 22:22 
Reply
Digg It 
Del.icio.us 
