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Increasing door height to fit tractor
changing the rops to afolding one is not that hard,i have done a couple of them. its a simple hinge design made with plates and a removeable pin.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Mathews,What do you plan to do with your implements?You may just want to build a shed and store all your(and her)stuff!I have a 990,little large for garage.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Ive got a garage/workshop that has quite a bit of room, but I know I'll be needing an equipment shed. I'm just trying to buy some time on that one. I've got some books on pole buildings, and Monte Burch's book has a fairly straightforward 3 bay equipment shed that could be expanded. I can't imagine getting to the point where I say, you know, I've just got too much storage space and nothing to put in it. Let see, two canoes, two skiffs, a riding mower, a push mower, a rototiller, firewood, boatbuilding lumber, tomato cages, .... And then future tractor implements: rear mount mower, plow, disk, box blade, harrow, auger, ....
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Matthews:
I think your original plan (3x 2x6"'s replacing 2x 2x8"'s) will work, assuming the 2" recouped is enough.
jim
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
I knew a guy who used to park his tall milk delivery truck in his residential home's garage. All he did was cut two "lanes" or paths for the tires into the garage floor.
Aside from that, modifying the ROPS seems the most economical. Probably cost about $400 for a welding shop to do. Seems simple: Four identical brackets, two bolts and pins and some cutting and welding.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Three 2X6s are about 10% weaker than a pair of 2X8s. (for the same variety and quality of wood.) Replacing them may work if the 2X8s were not fully loaded, but you will have to have an architect or engineer check it for you. As others have said, building codes may apply. Another alternative might be an engineered beam with top and bottom plates and a plywood center web. This would solve the height issue and could meet your code requirements.
BTW, I am an engineer.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Another way it could be done is with an offset bearing structure. I'm not sure how I'm going to explain this in less than three pages, but here goes. All of the following is a) presuming that your door is NOT on the gable end of the building, and that the roof slopes down to the door from a ridge, and b) it is strictly personal advise and not to be construed as a professional opinion, consult a professional in your area before attempting any structural changes, sorry waiver required.
You can move the load-bearing wall INTO the garage, and 'uphill' if you will, since the rafters, and therefore the load, rises with the roof. Moving the support further in to meet the load at a higher point in the roof will negate the need for such a deep header over the door itself, thus (hopefully) allowing you a little more clearance and allowing you to increase the height of the opening. Tip of the day, if this works and you are able to increase the height of the opening, do NOT buy a new door, simply raise the tracks by the same distance as the opening was increased, then attach an extension of the same size above the top panel, this way the door will still match any others it will just have an aditional section above that opens.
Best of luck.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Murf That's a clever idea and method for gaining door height, as long as the structure above fits your description. You would move the door header up higher, and further into the garage. Probably need posts on each side, or some other structure to hold the header. Very well described, and less than 4 pages!
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Yes, that is clever! I think I've done something like that twice but each time it was to rescue buildings. I never would have thought of it as a way to raise a door height.
If I've got the idea right, the idea is to run a beam supported by posts underneath the rafters and wedge the beam against the rafters with posts to the ground. In my cases, the buildings were in such bad shape or so poorly constructed to begin with that the rafters were not level.
My problem was how to get all the rafters in contact with the beam so they all transfer about the same load to the beam. I suppose that custom-cutting notches at the rafter angle into the beam would be ideal but there'd be a lot of work in that beam. I ended up placing the beam far enough below the rafters that I could cut custom length stubs to go between the rafters and beam. I didn't do it but gusset plates on the stubs would improve the design. To raise a door, that approach would mean the beam would have to come further into the garage, which might be desirable. Ideally, it's level across the rafter bottoms and ripping the edge of the beam to the right angle would do the trick.
Another problem I faced in my last rescue was how to keep the beam square on top of the posts and the posts in plumb. I suppose there is building hardware that's designed for the task. Not being an engineer I was never sure how much side force hardware would have to withstand and I probably over-designed it with tie-beams, tresses, cross-bracing and fillets. I have no idea what an engineer would say about my design.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Tom, Kay, (and others) sorry but in my quest for brevity I may have made the description a little too brief for clarity.
The idea is to replicate the existing header, just further inside the structure, and higher up, supported vertically by beams, and braced on a (hopefully) 45 degree angle back further into the structure and also back out to the original wall to prevent the new header from possibly kicking out. The method of attachment is usually to cut wedges out of dimensional lumber (2 x ?'s, depending on roof pitch) which are placed on top of the new header to take up the gap between header and rafter. These wedges are in turn laminated to the header by plywood strips, and joist hangers on top of that, in some areas tornado fastners (hold-downs) may also be required, check your local building code. Do not notch the header or the rafters as this would weaken them, use mechanical fasteners only to join the two components together.
If the beam is true and level and all rafters do not meet it equally, check the structural integrity of the roof itself, all rafters must run in the same plane in order for them to be holding only their proportionate amount of the roof loading, this is the time to fix any other problems.
Best of luck.
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